Convertable Header Popping
#1
Convertable Header Popping
I have an an an annoying rattle/pop coming from where the convertible top hits the header and top meet each other. My question is: can the top latch be released and the top be raised a little (so I can insulate it) WITHOUT operating the pump. I have a 2001 convertable and I am absolutely afraid of the Green Shower. Also what kind of fault codes might I get? Also will an aftermarket antenna and whip work in my stock power antenna?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by Mike Graham; 10-05-2013 at 10:30 PM. Reason: afterthought
#2
If you are not using the convertible capability of your car at all because of the fear of hydraulic failure perhaps you should immediately install the pressure release valve or just replace the hoses.
The top is held down tight by the hydraulic pressure of the top latch.
You can release the top lock with the Allen wrench stored in a clip next to the top pump by inserting it into the hole covered by a plastic plug in the center of the headliner at about where the latch is located. That is covered in your owners manual. You will be able to move the top a little, perhaps enough to accomplish your objective at that point. If you need more room you may have to release the pressure valve on the pump, a brass 'T' handle on the side of the pump body. Counter clockwise to release, clockwise to close.
The top is held down tight by the hydraulic pressure of the top latch.
You can release the top lock with the Allen wrench stored in a clip next to the top pump by inserting it into the hole covered by a plastic plug in the center of the headliner at about where the latch is located. That is covered in your owners manual. You will be able to move the top a little, perhaps enough to accomplish your objective at that point. If you need more room you may have to release the pressure valve on the pump, a brass 'T' handle on the side of the pump body. Counter clockwise to release, clockwise to close.
#3
The top latch mechanism should not rattle and pop.
You should try to address the problem by inspecting the claw and the side latches to making sure nothing is loose and lubricating them with dry graphite lock lubricant.
There should be no need to stuff in insulation.
You should try to address the problem by inspecting the claw and the side latches to making sure nothing is loose and lubricating them with dry graphite lock lubricant.
There should be no need to stuff in insulation.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 10-06-2013 at 08:33 AM.
#4
The latch mechanism could be the problem but it could also be the header is loose and is moving a little. Do you know if the hoses or latch have ever been replaced? As Test Point said you can open the latch by first opening the petcock at the pump to release the pressure and then open the latch with the allen wrench. But remember the roof will not go back until to release the linkage for the roof at the rams. Why not operate the roof electrically and look at the header?
#5
Mike,
You can have zero risk of a green shower and still have full use of your convertible top ... manual latch conversion. It removes all hydraulic pressure from the latch area. Link below.
A relief valve will reduce but not eliminate the risk of a shower. Reduce by how much? Unknown. Same is true of voltage reduction. Link below.
Antenna: not sure I know what you mean by "aftermarket antenna and whip". Lots of different antenna arrangements can be used, but it's hard to duplicate the effectiveness of that big old ugly pole that came with the car (this is not a problem if you have lots of signal strength).
Good luck with both projects.
You can have zero risk of a green shower and still have full use of your convertible top ... manual latch conversion. It removes all hydraulic pressure from the latch area. Link below.
A relief valve will reduce but not eliminate the risk of a shower. Reduce by how much? Unknown. Same is true of voltage reduction. Link below.
Antenna: not sure I know what you mean by "aftermarket antenna and whip". Lots of different antenna arrangements can be used, but it's hard to duplicate the effectiveness of that big old ugly pole that came with the car (this is not a problem if you have lots of signal strength).
Good luck with both projects.
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