Convertable top cleaning?
#1
#2
Convertable top cleaner
There is a product called Rag Top that comes in a kit. I comes with a cleaner
a top spray treatment and a brush. Don't use the brush because the bristles come out and it makes a mess, use a soft nylon brush instead. After the top is washed and dry spray two coats of treatment on. I suggest you mask off the top of the car, you don't want to get it on the paint. I do it every year on my XKR and have been happy. Good Luck!
a top spray treatment and a brush. Don't use the brush because the bristles come out and it makes a mess, use a soft nylon brush instead. After the top is washed and dry spray two coats of treatment on. I suggest you mask off the top of the car, you don't want to get it on the paint. I do it every year on my XKR and have been happy. Good Luck!
#4
I have a factory tan top. I used 303 and thought is did a good job cleaning, but in the end my top still seemed old looking, and no doubt had sun fade. I ended up re-dying the top. I used Renovo. I talked to the North American distributor and he suggested I try their cleaner and then conditioner, which also is a sealer, before I re-dye, because often times this will produce good results. He did explain though that if I use the conditioner/sealer but decide to re-dye afterward, I will need to very thoroughly clean the top again to remove the sealer. I thought the cleaner was superior to anything I have tried, and it came with a bristle brush too. I wet the top with a hose, applied the cleaner, let it soak, and then used hot water and the brush and scrubbed, then rinsed and I was amazed at how dirty the rinse water was initially. After it dried, I applied the conditioner. It did result in a luster sort of look, it looked better, but still, the top was faded. Also, some of the stitching, which is white, was tattered looking, and missing in places. But no where are any seams coming apart, but white on tan really makes this obvious. So I decided to dye the top (which of course colors the white stitching the same color as the top, making it less obvious). Knowing what I know now, I would have cleaned, then dyed, rather than even try the conditioner, because the conditioner water proofs the canvas and before dyeing, the conditioner must be completely removed, otherwise the dye will not absorb. So, I had to thoroughly clean again with hot water and the cleaning solution with the brush, twice. I let it dry completely, then re-dyed. The only dye color that they have that is close to the tan is brown, which frankly I think looks excellent. The dye is brushed on, and generally absorbs into the canvas well. At the front left and right corners it did collect and then drip onto the side window, and through the water drain paths to under the car. I was aware of this from when I applied the conditioner, so was prepared with an old bath towel under the corners. Do this when applying conditioner or dyeing.Also, since the dye is applied with a a paint brush (also included), there can be some splatter. I recommend masking the car like you were painting to prevent drips and droplets on the paint and glass, and mask with painters plastic rather than newspaper, as paper will absorb the dye and still stain the paint. this is very important if you don't want to use polishing compound with an electric polisher over the entire car. My top required 2 dye coats, as I was told to expect. One coat looked streaky and bloctchy. I may even have done some spotty touch up after it dried. Next, once completely dry, you really have to apply the conditioner sealer. This will require at least 2 coats. The first coat goes on fairly easily and absorbs well. Once dry, a second coat is needed, but this is difficult to apply because much of the canvas is now water proof and the conditioner tends to roll off rather than absorb. The distributor explained this to me on the phone, but until you do it, you don't realize that you just need to take your time and be patient, it will soak in, just takes longer. Attached is a before pic
The following 2 users liked this post by SteveJacks:
jtshaw (10-12-2013),
MFoncerrada8 (10-13-2013)
#5
Here is an after... I have to say that the after pic really doesn't look great, but in person, the top looks much better. Everyone that has seen it in person says it looks good, better than the faded look. It doesn't make an old top look new, but it does look much better. It was well worth the effort. As an added bonus, water beads up on it when it rains now although rarely is the car in the rain.
The following users liked this post:
jtshaw (10-12-2013)
#6
Here is an after... I have to say that the after pic really doesn't look great, but in person, the top looks much better. Everyone that has seen it in person says it looks good, better than the faded look. It doesn't make an old top look new, but it does look much better. It was well worth the effort. As an added bonus, water beads up on it when it rains now although rarely is the car in the rain.
I agree I use Renovo cleaner, dye a sealent annually on my black top and nothing else I have tried can beat it.
The following users liked this post:
jtshaw (10-12-2013)
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