I installed the Italian pressure relief valve today, took about half an hour.
The suppliers had preset the valve to 1000 psi.
Reconnected the electrics, closed the petcock.
Pressed the switch, rear windows lowered then nothing happened.
I had to give the pressure adjuster 1/8 turn before the roof latch would unlock then all was fine.
It looks as if the highest pressure is required to unlock the latch because if I reduced the pressure the roof would close and latch but not open.
I imagine this will vary from car to car depending on the state of the latch mechanism.
With two people you could set it up 'on the fly' with one pressing the switch while the other winds up the pressure until the latch functions.
The fittings are 1/8 BSP on the pressure side and 7/16 UNF on the return as previously advertised.

 

Is there anything we can do to maintain the state of the latch mechanism? Spray a lubricant? What would that be?

Jack

 

If you stop with the top half closed the latch mechanism is sticking up ready to catch the roof.
You can see most of the mechanics without removing any trim. I just use a spray can of good quality light oil with a straw.
I think a more experienced member in anoher post was in favour of removing trim and using ? lithium grease? but it's a ten second job my way.
Interestingly I was able to back off the relief pressure a bit after lubricating so it does matter.

 

Steve,

I use an aerosol grease on door hinges and door locks in preference to oil because it gives a slightly thicker and more resiliant coating:

Comma :: Productsguide

The delivery tube allows for precision application. Would this also be a better option than oil for the convertible latch mechanism?

Graham

 

A few months ago I think I saw a recommendation for SailKote. I can not seem to find the post using the search feature. Anyway, here is a link...

SailKote Marine Dry Lubricant & Coating for Sails, Rigging, Deck Hardware and more. - McLube

This stuff looks good. I am going to get some. I called a local boating shop. They have it in stock.

Jack

 

There are several moving parts, levers and arms that operate the side locking pins that are driven from the top latch. Make sure all these operate properly. 4 screws (2 hidden on the ends under weatherstripping) removes the vanity plate and you can get an idea as to what all is going on...

 

Thanks for the info - I think it was your previous post I was referring to.
I'd like to take a look. It looks like you're removing what JTIS calls the 'latch cover' rather than the 'roof console' (with the interior lights etc)?