All I did was lift the carpet and installed the hose under it. Removing the plastic panel was a matter of pushing it forward with a lifting motion, sounds harder than it was to do. As for the running board I did not remove mine I just worked the hose under the carpet from the center of the car. The foot rest did not cause a problem for me.

 

The polished kick plate is rather difficult to remove. I used a heat gun to warm the most adhesive double backed tape on the planet then a razor knife and some dental floss to 'cut' it loose. I was able to remove mine without damaging it but most shops consider a new one just part of the cost of the hose replacement.

 

Thanks for the quick replies...I was able to finally get the foot rest loose and remove the panel without taking off the chrome running board so that was a relief. Now I am messing with getting the line from the back seat to the trunk. I feel like I need to raise the roof a little to get a little more access. Did you guys have to do that? It looks like it is going to be a royal pain to get those lines through that small hole that is already jammed with wires. Unfortunately have only had about an hour a day to work on this. Hopefully I will be able to knock it out over the weekend.

 

IMO, the easiest way is to use duct tape and tape the new hoses to the old ones, then pull the new ones through using the old ones.

 

+1

 

Found x jag mech to do job. Suggested kit from jag. He claims they also fail. Replaced entire lines which involves tearing car apart. What a disgraceful piece of engineering!!

 

Ain't it amazingly stupid!


Doug

 

Ben,

You are new to the forum and the links may not work for you. This link will put you in the right direction Hose Replacement or Hose Evaluation or use the link in my signature.

 

Hi Gus
I sent a couple of messages to the link you provided for the CGR hose repair kit you came up with. ( see below) I have yet to get a reply. Did I mess up or do I need to just call them?

From: Phil Kispert [mailtonkispert@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 6:59 PM
To: 'ctrent@colliflower.com'
Subject: Jaguar CGR Roof Hose

Hi Chic

My name is Phil Kispert. I am a member of the Jaguar Forum, and am writing to ask about the Jaguar replacement hose kit that Gus Gilkas worked with you to develop. I have an 01 Jaguar XK-8 convertible, and need to replace the hydraulic roof hose. Please email me back with price and ordering information.

Regards,

Phil Kispert
pnkispert@gmail.com
828-974-2152

 

Phil,

I had the same challenge---contact Michele Trent at 410-686-1200 or via email at MTrent@colliflower.com

 

Thanks - had the same "no response" and have emailed Michele

 

Bob - Is this Greg a good mechanic for a Jag in this area? Can you post his contacts or send me a pm.
Thanks

Phoenix, Arizona
Kal

 

I was out of town for a day or two, did you get this resolved?? If not let me know. I did not get your messages..

 

I did the hose replacement last weekend. When I got to the point of routing the hoses into the trunk, I could not even see the hole into the trunk and the old hose was impossible to pull through. What I did was manually grab the roof by hand and pull it up slowly about 1/2 way. It will stay up like that by itself. Then I had a clear view of the hole to the trunk and just pushed the new hoses individually through the hole. Later I just pushed the roof all the way down again (make sure you push it all the way down). This worked well....good luck with the job!!

 

Hi Gus
Mountaincat gave me another person to contact. Michele Trent. I will try that today. Another question for you... I have seen three suggested solutions to this problem; hoses, pressure relief valve and resistor. Is one better? I am thinking about doing both stronger hoses and the valve, but skipping the resistor. Any suggestions or comments? Phil

 

Phil,

Let me know how you make out with the hose. I am partial to the valve and know it is a superior application between the two applications.

 

I, on the other hand, believe ("know" seems the wrong word for what is, after all, an opinion) the electrical approach to be better because:

- the installation is trivial, much less invasive.

- the motor consumes less power running under reduced voltage, which should extend its life.

- the cost is less than 10% that of the valve.

- this solution is on the right side of history. Many if not all car manufacturers now use electrical control of pump pressure in convertible top hydraulics. I don't know of any still using a relief valve.

All this said, I would prefer not to have to respond to statements about which approach is "superior".

 

Sorry but I do know! See the attached chart. It is what it is.

 

Ah, we must go on it seems.

As some here know, I'm on the road for a week or so, but there will be time down the road. Have not taken a close look so far.

For now, I would just ask folks to stand by and recall this is from the same source claiming a stall while raising the top (not seen by any of 200+ other users.)