The top is now fixed, modulo replacing a few pieces that I am cleaning while they are out of the car.

The piece that had me stumped was routing the last length just before the trunk. I had not realized that the top could just be lifted back in place once the hydraulic pump was turned to manual. This allowed me to snip the last couple of cable ties and run the old cable out.

Some other points for folk looking to do this:

Most Jaguar bolts seem to be 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm or 15mm, the screws are Torx 30, 40, 45, 50

I bought a set of Torx adapters for my socket set and a set of ratcheting spanners with the twisty heads to get into tight corners. I found these invaluable on the MGB, but the Jaguar is metric.

If you have the premium sound system you are probably going to find it easier to just remove the reinforcement bars. I didn't find this half as much hassle as trying to navigate the speaker round it.

If this is the first time you have worked on a modern Jag, eight hours is probably nearer the mark than six. Once you have all the stuff out you might as well give it a clean in the places that are difficult to reach otherwise.

I see no point in messing round with the splice kit. going from the fuse box to the trunk is the easy part, its getting it to there that is the pain.

 

Good to know that you got the job completed. I will add the information about the tools required from your remarks. I did not put it on my page because I had all the tools and never once thought of the guy who did not and wants to take the project on.
Thanks for your input!
Gus

 

Well I wish I could tell you this was an easy trip. It was not! We have experimented with several options of hoses, connectors, fittings, bend radios, temperature, pressure, metric and the use of removable fittings. Just about everything others have looked into and suggested. I must first say we Chic, Ron and I are designing this hose to meet our standards. If we would not put this in our car how would we sell it to others? This has not been an easy process and has taken longer than I expected, however, I am to have the hose in my hands and available by the end of this week. At that time I will post all the information on the hose and how to get it on my webpage. Please be patient I purposely did not put pressure on the manufacturing of this hose to get it out quickly because we wanted quality. This hose is rated at a temperature of 430f and 3000psi.

Gus

 

Congrats Gus. I know two other individuals, well qualified, who have attempted this project. You deserve much credit for following through in spite of the difficulties.

This is an item of importance to everyone who owns a XK8 convertible.

gordo

 

how do you open the hood with the key fob?

 

If by 'hood' you mean the bonnet... you can't open the hood using a keyfob. If you mean the rear trunklid, then you press the bottom on the fob. gordo

 

If, by hood, you mean the top, turn the key in the door lock and hold until the top retracts, or raises. Seems to take longer with the key because you have to hold against the spring tension but it is still the approximate 20 seconds.

 

Well this is it! I have spent several months working on the manufacturing of a replacement hose for the xk8 roof control hoses that have been known to fail. I contacted several contractors and hose manufactures with a less than favorable response. I attempted to contact PowerPackers several times with no response.
I have a buddy who has a custom body shop that takes a bucket of bolts and a hull of what was once a car and creates award winning hotrod show cars and I told him what I was looking for. He turned me onto a few guys that love a real opportunity to be creative. Today, I now have a hose that I would put in my car without hesitation. I must warn you that it is a bit pricy but we are working on that! I have always felt that quality often comes with a price.

With that being said I would like to get one installed in a car in an effort to eliminate any questions or problems that may come up. This is the last leg of our hose before I can put it out for others to install. I will need documentation and photos for others to see. If you are located in the area I will help. I am dedicated to making this work.

You may contact me by e-mail at kgvideophoto@ix.netcom.com or by going to my webpage www.gusglikas.com/autorepair.htm and select the contact us and send an e-mail.

Just to let you know we are trying to work out the price issue. I will let you know what it is when we come up with it. I will also post on my page info and photos on the hose and how to get it.

Gus

 

atta boy gus! you looking for a volunteer XK vert to test you're new hose on? Will this person get a 'discount', perhaps just parts, just labor, or a discount of some sort? Just wondering what type of 'pilot' program you are offering here for these guys who haven't had hose replacements yet.

 

I wish I could discount the hose. If I did it would come out of my pocket. I will do all I can to get a discount but I have no leverage in that area. I would put it in my car but I just recently replaced them. Everyone needs to know I am getting nothing, not a penny on the cost of this hose. Often hard to believe that someone would work for months on this project and get nothing out of it. I made a commitment to others on this and other forums and I am trying to live up to it. Sorry if you or others think I am selling this hose!

 

I didn't mean to imply the selling of the hose, or marking up the cost at all. Your explanation above just confirms it. But the guys that are manufacturing it, are they willing to do so at cost maybe until the tests are complete, and maybe for an introductory period? That would be a nice advantage for those thinking about the upcoming replacement. I still think it is a viable option to the dealer parts option.

You've put alot of time and research effort into this, you should be commended (not committed). I'm a huge fan of yours, really.

 

Yes I know! I must apologize! I recently pulled my post from another forum that felt my post was an advertisement and at the time I responded to you, I vented. Sorry for that! As for the manufacture and the price I am on the same page you are and I have been working on this. I know that this hose will work, it is our best option. What I am concerned with is the space in the header for the new connector. I am certain the space is available but I want to be sure and the only way to do that is to install it.

 

Was the recipient of the 'green oil shower' last week, so I figured I would 'google' this Jaguar problem. Fortunately, found this forum. Thanks to all of you for the good information.
"Gus" has a number of posts and references his web site: could not find that.
Lastly, have spent a good part of my spare time over the past 50 years restoring British sports Cars, I had intended to take the ultimate challenge - restore an E Type as my final project. The Gods were on my side - I visited a show room in 02 and had the good sense to drive out with an XJ8 Convertible thinking that I was tired of the nightmares that might come with an E-Type restoration (and based on the good experience I had had with a 91 XJ6 that seemed to make sense). Good olde Jaguar keeps life interesting.
Is the "Cat bit" award still alive and well?

 

Well another that has been blessed by the green monster! Look under my signature and just click! I plan to rework my page but have not gotten around to it. Let us know if we can help and good luck if you take the project on.

 

Gus, Found the site. Thanks for the tutorial. Some questions: It seems Jaguar in their infinite wisdom sends hydraulic fluid from the trunk up to the front latch. Amazing!! Would have guessed they might have used an independent cylinder there. What (other than having to pull out the latch wrentch) would be the problem with plugging the hose at the site of the rear hydraulic pump and use the wrentch, ie. bypass the entire hydraulic issue? Wouldn't the latch microswitches work with a manual pull?

Second question - Given the grief this has caused has anyone considered legal action against Jaguar? These cars are not exactly cheap! Having oil spills occur nearly on your head is potentially dangerous. Also hydraulic lines are not exactly new technology. These dumbells should be held accountable for under engineering the system.

 

These were my sentiments exactly. As an engineer myself, the less problematic solution was to have the latching manual instead of having to come with some Rube Goldberg scheme of running hoses via impossible to get to routes from the rear to the front. Removing the front hose and working the latch manually would be no big deal for me, especially if it eliminated the possibility of the oil shower.

Secondly, there must be some savvy lawyers among the group here or on other Jaguar forums. I am sure that some testing lab could show that exposure to this fluid is not healthy for you. I am amazed there has not already been some class action suit for this well-documented obvious design defect.

Doug

 

Hi AltoPaul,
Glad to see you got to my page. I like you thought the design sucked and that little thought went into the setup. I am getting a pump to evaluate that might answer your questions as to plugging the hyd ends to the roof latch. From what I can tell the system has two components. One electrical and the other hydraulic, it also is controlled by programming that is in the body and security control modules. Now the question is the sequence of the operation. If you plug the two hoses to the roof latch if you delay the latching or unlatching will that delay confuse or cause damage to the rest of the system. I am cautious in this area because I do not want to give anyone false information. In my investigation of this system I came across many things that were untrue / not accurate and I do not want to do that to you.
Now what you do not know is that the manufacture of the system has an American and European. I have made contact with both. One was responsive the other, well let me say I only received one e-mail back from them saying I need to contact Jag! And they were the ones that designed the system.

 

I am new to Jaguar and new to this site. Four days ago I just purchased a 1997 XK8 with 20,000 miles. The car has been garaged its whole life and in great shape but the convertible top worries me, especially after reading this thread. My top goes down just fine but is very slow at going up and requires several attempts to close- I have to lower and attempt to raise about 5 times before the top actually has enough oomph to close. I have a couple of questions: I read about "gelling" of the hydraulic fluid. This car has only traveled about 100 miles in the last five years. Could the fluid have gelled thus causing the top to close very slowly? If so, how would I go about flushing and refilling the system? Also, the latch doesn't seem to open all the way when I press the button to raise the top. I have only lowered and raised the top 4 times so far, I just use my hand to fully extend the latch when closing- about half an inch or less of movement. Does anyone think it just needs to be lubricated or will I get a bath of green fluid someday soon? I apologize if I have posted this in the wrong section but this thread seemed to be the most appropriate. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Go to my webpage and read all the info I have. Changing the fluid is a good idea the question is how do you want to go about doing it...