Yeop, I was told replacing the hose would require pulling out most of the interior, thus most of the $1,000+ cost was labor. To get the original hose out, it was spliced at different sections to get the hose out piece by piece. Hopefully, the new part installed is one entire length of hose.

 

Gus,

That's what I have been told as well, and the only reason I can conceive for that would be because of a high incidence of failure.

 

I posted my findings of my first evaluation of the hose failures on my page. I hope to have another hose and latch soon. I would like to get a repair kit connector.

Thanks!
Gus

 

I have one of the last kits in the world for sale $150 kit from jaguar to repair the convertbile top lines without replacing the whole line. No need to remove anything just the a pillar and the fusebox panel and kickpanel. Takes about an hour

 

Wow, just an hour? Replacing the entire hose is quoted to be an eight hour job which exponentially increases your cost for labor.

 

Out of coincidence I just installed a kit today. It looked the same as every other i've installed. I don't know for sure if it was in stock at the dealer or we got it sent in from a Jaguar warehouse. I will check tomorrow about the availability and see if we ordered that kit or had it on hand for the last few months.

 

Thanks for doing all this research Gus. With your Air Force engineering background, you can be of great service to the Jag community on this problem. gordo

 

I just did the whole job running the full length lines and I spent about 4 hours on it my first time around, its not that bad. I would recommend to do the whole thing and not to patch it.

 

how'd the install go real_tech? Did the connections hold after repressurizing the system?

 

I updated my findings.

 

we've had several successes and failures in the splices, and I equate it to building braided steel brake hoses. I have never done a splice kit, and dont intend to even if avail.
I do understand that there are too many repeat repairs due to either poor installation, hose degradation...or whatever. that I would rather just do a complete line replacement. This is not that hard either.
Pull the drivers and rear seats, rear console cover, right rear speaker and trim, also pull thedriver carpet enough around the console and forward of the drivers seat to expose the lines. Around the fuse box you just use a hook type took like the ones to get under coolant hoses and pop them loose from the retainers. Then slip them out past the dash. With the top half raised clip all the wire ties that bind the hoses to different points especially the wire harness bundle going into the trunk. After the top lines are removed from the latch, I removed the lines at the pump then blow air through them to clear most of the fluid. then I cut the lines into and pull them out quickly. I reroute the new ones starting with the lines to the pump going through the back bulkhead to the pump. Then route all the rest back into position. Its not all that hard and takes only 3-5 hours depending on ambition

 

Gus,

I really appreciate the photos of this operation. Have been trying to work out how to go about this for a while. I have the fluid leaking from my ceiling lights.

How long should it take to complete? I do not have a garage at the moment (spent it on the cat instead, so she has spent ten years outside with no garage). So I need to complete or get to a stoppable point before night.

PHB

 

The entire job took me 6 hrs. However, I was without help and I was 60 years old and like you I had to do it outside. If you look below the photos you will see my write-up on the entire job. A good stoppable point is when the hose is in and the latch is in place. At that point you can close the roof and windows and not be concerned about the pump running with a hose disconnected when closing the windows. Just let me know if you come up with a better way. A stick of TNT is not an option…..
Good Luck!
Gus

 

I found a supplier of the Pentozol CHF 11s hydraulic fluid online for $21/ltr. How much do I need to replace the fluid and flush the system?

 

I have no idea the size of the container I have, If I were to guess maybe 12oz and I still have it. Good news, I will have in my position I hope Friday a new hose that is rated for 430 deg. and 3000 psi. This far exceeds the ranges of the old hose. However, a repair kit is not available at this time.

 

A complete flush and refill calls for 1 Liter. I bought a Liter at NAPA a year ago for $17.

 

Well unfortunately I will not have a hose available this week. I will keep you posted when it is available. We hope within the next week or two. We are committed to provide you with a quality product that will last the lifetime of the car and nothing less.

 

So I have got the interior parts out and the hoses run all the way to the rear bulkhead.

Here I have hit a snag. I can't work out how to get the old hose out with the hood down and I can't work out how to raise the hood without the hydraulics. I seem to have missed the explanation of how to crank it manually.

Also how do I flush the hydraulic fluid and refill the tank?

Handbrake cable looks like the retaining crimp whatever had come loose.

 

Go to my page and take your time and read all the info below the photos. Also you will find information below all the photos that will help. Take your time and look at all of it and it will come together. If not we will take one step at a time and get to the end.

 

Check your PM!