This type of thing was chronic with BMW during the time I owned my 325es (1986 to 1995). The local dealer would almost never fix something correctly the first time and often something else would be broken when the car was returned. Sadly, my first experience with the local Jaguar dealer was the same.

Doug

 

I figure I would update everyone regarding my hose fix. After returning the car back to the dealer on three occasions I am finally satisfied with the repair. The fabric on the A pillars has been reinstalled correctly, the convertible top seems to be working perfectly. They installed a new switch for the side-view mirrors, and the rear seat belt covers have been replaced. The service technician did provide me with a free oil change on my next visit as compensation for my troubles. Given an oil change cost $90.00, I guess it was a meaningfull gesture on his part. Hopefully, I will be able to enjoy the car for a few more weeks before it goes into the garage for the winter.

However, I am curious as to an opinion regarding starting the car and letting it idle for a few minutes during the winter months to keep the battery charged and fluids circulating through the engine.

 

If you do not get the engine up to full operating temperature for some time, equivalent to 10 miles, you are doing more harm than good.

Google battery tender for a really great battery in storage charger.

No relation, just used them for years on motorcycles.

 

I have been driving my 1999 XK8 round Boston in all seasons since new. Just take it out for a drive once in a while.

The XK8 handles pretty well in snow, at least as far as I have found. The main concern is the lunatics driving 4 wheel drive SUVs who seem to think that they are Nigel Mansell.

The material on the A pilars does deteriorate over time, taking them out and putting them back in probably disturbed them somewhat. Its an easy fix for the dealer though. Just pull the material taut.

 

Thanks, I do use a battery tender on both my Jag and 300zx that I purchased from Griots Garage catalog, which works well. However, this year the battery in my Jag went dead.

I guess I can brave the snow, a few days during the winter. How many days would you recommend I take the car out?

 

Lunatics who don’t know how to drive well in the snow in general worry me. Additionally, given both my Jag and 300Zx sit relatively low to the ground, I don’t want to end up using the car a snow plow, and don’t get me started on the corrosive salt they use in NJ during the winter.

 

Great product! I did mine in an hour before breakfast. It took me longer to clean out and open the trunk than the actual install.

Directions are spot on, pictures are great. High quality parts, correct in size and length.

This is a good confidence building DYI project.

I have the older original hoses so I'm hoping this gives a lot more life to my system. I'm encouraged. Now the system it sounds like it should - not so much drama from the pump.

Scott

 

OK,
I'm a little confused as I can't find this reference anywhere in the thread ?

 

Most of the threads discussing the convertible top hydraulic hoses end up somewhere with post(s) about the product that Gus and Walt came up with to control pressure in the system. This may even be (or should be) posted as a sticky in the FAQ section. Basically, the device is installed at the pump to reduce pressures to the hoses (the stock operating pressure seems to be much greater than what is actually needed to open/close the top). The price of this piece (available from LSI but go to Gus' website for more info) is reasonable and the project is a pretty straightforward DIY.

Doug

 

Here's a free plug for the great entrepreneurs who double as valuable members - go here for the page with pics and links to purchase the relief valve.

 

Awesome ! No reason to NOT get this ordered on Monday.

 

You are making the right choice!

 

Ok, its not really a 'relief' valve, its more like a pressure 'reducing' valve. I don't want to confuse anyone into thinking the valve will pop open and release pressure (and fluid) lol

 

Wow! I wish I would have noticed this thread before! I got into my 2001 XKR tonight at work to drive home. Being a hot sunny day here in KC, first thing I did was press my top button to put the top down. The rear windows dropped as normal but there was no unlatching and no top movement. Then all of sudden about 1/2 cup of green hydro fluid start spilling out of the mesh grill falling directly onto my cruise control and sports mode buttons. LUCKILY I had a couple of towels in the back and immediately soaked up the mess. What a nightmare! I had the car into the dealer a couple of months ago for a transmission leak (first time I've been to the local dealer since I bought the car last fall). I'm more than a little frustrated that they didn't warn me about this known problem. It's obviously just a matter of time before this happens to everyone who owns these models.

OK enough venting. I've read through MOST of this thread and need a little quick advice.
What's the first thing I need to do? My top is currently closed and I'll leave it that way. How can I keep more fluid from leaking out as I drive? Do I need to switch it into manual mode?

If I do a complete hose replacement, is the pressure regulator device necessary?

It seems the fluid may have stained the cloth around the mesh grill. Any advice on cleaning it?

Thanks in advance for any advice from my fellow Jag buddies!!!

 

Well first the obvious, you dont want to run the pump motor, so no playing around with the switches. I would open the petcock on the tank (counter-clockwise four or five turns) in order to relieve line pressure and prevent any more fluid from entering the lines and allow any fluid to drain back.

You can get most of the fluid remaining in your overhead light consul by pulling it downward to detach it from the header. There are three (3) steel prongs that snap into the steel header sheetmetal. One at the center closest to the rearview mirror, and two on either side closest to the windshield. the light assy comes off by pulling straight down. Use something like a plastic pry bar to get a finger grip and then snap it out. I dont have to tell you to keep some towels underneath.

Once you have it unsnapped from the header; there are one or two electrical connectors for the overhead courtesy lights that you'll want to disconnect. Its up to your whether you want to reinstall, but there should be no more oil

The pump fluid in basically hydraulic oil similar to mineral oil. Most oil cutting detergents will clean up the mess.

Have a nice day

 

Thanks Gordo, I'll get right on that!!!

 

OK, here's an update on my leaky hose!
I called my local Jag dealer. My service rep knew EXACTLY what the problem was; he said it was the hose fitting going into the latch; need hose replacement - Jag estimate ... about $1800. I asked if Jag would cover the fix since it is a well-documented problem. He said it wasn't likely since I'm well out of the warranty period (although still under 38K miles).

I then called the Jag USA Customer Service line and pled my case to no avail!

After reading through this thread carefully and reviewing Gus's website, I decided to try the fix myself to save $1500.

I purchased the hose replacements and more fluid from the dealer. Then I bought some torx bits and a few other tools at the auto parts store.

I started Monday night. I spent two hours getting everything setup in my garage and doing the first part of the deconstruction. I need the car to get to work, so I wanted to only take out the seats, speakers, etc and still leave the car drivable for a few days. I got to work Tuesday. At lunch I lowered my FRONT windows, then my BACK windows went down and would NOT come by up. Bad news since rain was coming soon. I decided I needed to take a half day vacation, go home and finish this job. Based on everyone's estimates of 3, 5, to 8 hours, I didn't think I would have any issues.

WRONG. It took me from noon to midnight to finish this job. I didn't think I was moving that slowly, but I sure didn't bring it in under 8 hours. I took my time and labeled everything I removed and taped the fasteners together. I also logged my steps on my laptop as I went along. I took some pictures through the early part of the process. As it got later, I logged less and took fewer pics. I intend to clean up my log file, insert some pics and post it here. The leak was EXACTLY what everyone else experienced. The hose failed right at the fitting attached to the latch.

After 12 hours of physical contortions, sore muscles, and relief that I DON'T do this for a living, I'm very satisfied with this accomplishment. The top works perfectly now. I saved $1500. In the process, I also smoothed out the annoying wrinkles on the fabric covering my A-pillars. All is good.

Thanks to everyone that has posted tips on this forum and special thanks to Gus for posting the whole process with pictures!!!! I studied those pics for a long time before I dared to attempt this process!

Steve

 

This, folks, is just why you all (we) are doing what we are doing here - sharing our experience and knowledge to keep these beautiful cars alive and on the road. Thanks on behalf of all of us that mostly just "read". DaleD

 

Thank You for your kind words! This is what it is all about.

 

A big "Amen" to Steve's comments. This has to be the best website on the net for people (Gus, Reverend Sam) putting detailed instructions on how to maintain and repair these wonderful cars. I personally haven't had to do any maintenance of the type some of you have, but I can see that the longer I own my beautiful Cat, the more likely it is that I will be referring to the instructions and photos posted here. Thank you all.