I recently replaced the rear top rams on my 2000 XK8. The problem was fluid leakage from both sides with obvious fluid under rear seat. I assumed both rams were leaking and needed replaced. I purchased a set of used rams from a salvage yard and went to work. I followed the workshop manual and the job was pretty routine and time consuming. One change you should do is the manual says you can leave the rear speakers in place if you have the base audio system. Don't do it, remove the speaker mounting panel, it will save you considerable time and aggravation.

Once I removed the rams and inspected them I noticed that none of the high pressure connections had O rings! I don't know if they just disintegrated over time or a previous repair did not replace them. Because I could not return the rams I used my replacement set with new O rings and the problem is solved. I do think now that if I had just replaced the O rings with the original rams that also would also have solved the leaks.

Considering that a new set of rams is around $600 to $700 just replacing the O rings for $2 is an interesting alternative. Unfortunately it is pretty difficult to figure out exactly where the leak is as the fluid spray is all over the rams.

 

Top Hydraulics rebuilds cylinders and latches for $150 ea with better quality seals.

 

How do you remove rams from roof frame?

 

Charles, How far along are you? Just starting or are you looking at the rams?
What year is you car?
I can point you to a thread to go from start to finish, if you need that?

Wayne

 

Many thanks for your reply. Am interested in thread. Have the rams fully exposed and know how to disconnect from car frame but the pin at the top is the problem. My car is a 2000 XK8.

 

I am in the process of replacing the rams and hoses. On the rams all you need to do is remove the 3 screws for the housing and at the top of the ram is a clip the that you need to pull off of the ram shaft. That clip is part of the peg that the ram shaft pivots on. Use a small screwdriver to push it away from the ram shaft and wiggle it out.

 

Be careful of the spring washer behind the ram pivot point.

Wayne

 

Yes, be carefull not to lose the spring washer that is behind the pivot pin. Also, note the orientation of the washer so that you put it back the same way.

 

Washer popped out. Is it supposed to be wrinkled? Still question pin at top of cylinder. Have popped off round clip from cylinder and rotated it away but unsure how to proceed from there. Top is in up position and don't want to complicate situation since I will be driving north, 1,000 miles, in about 6 wks. and am happy to have quarter windows up for now. Is it OK to lower top manually and reraise manually with quarter windows up?

 

Just got pin off. Simple once you just push pin partly out from one side and then wiggle rest of way out after releasing round clip from body of cylinder. Got this far with multiple hints from different readers. Many thanks. On to complete removal and then to top hydraulics for rebuild.

 

Any hints/cautions on removing two switches and the bottom hydraulic line from right cylinder?

 

Just unplug the lead to the ram and remove the ram and put it on your bench and remove the leads from the old and put it on the new. you do not want to do it in the car for fear of dropping any of the nuts or the screw. The plug is in the valley under the seat.

 

Thanks Gus.
that was simple. However I still don't see how bottom hydraulic line comes loose.Could cut line and send to Top Hydraulics but this seems defeatist.

 

Charles, DON"T DO THAT.
Pull the double sided pin out and the hose will come right out with a "O" ring on it. You do not get a new clip from TH, so save guard that one with your life.
The ground has a very small Torx head female screw if I remember rightly.

Wayne

 

Put a wrench on the bottom elbow fitting that goes into the ram then take a wrench on the fitting and turn it loose. It is a little difficult when the ram is loose. Whatever you do, do not pinch or bend the hose if you do consider replacing it or you may be doing this again to replace the hose.

 

Thanks to Gus and jd777 for all their very helpful comments. Cylinders are now ready for shipping. Biggest problem, besides ignorance, was reluctance to use force. However some of the fittings are so tight that some degree of force is necessary. All small parts are accounted for after a brief period of freedom.

 

Gents, what do I need to do to get access to the bottom ram connection? How is it connected to the bottom bracket? Mine has come completely detached somehow and unfortunately I don't have access to a workshop manual.

 

Redline, which side are you talking about? The left has a screw off, but the right has a small split washer type, that holds it in place, with a "O" ring, very small. If someone didn't seat that clip all the way in, it could come out with the back and forth movement of the ram. It is on a pivot. You will have to take the speaker cabinet out and look under it and on the floor for a small sliding clip, mine was gold in color.

Wayne

 

My tiny o ring on the "clip" passenger side ram is missing. Does anybody know how to get a replacement? I tried NAPA and Top Hydraulics, no luck.

 

I find it hard to believe that NAPA did not have one to fit. However, you can go to a hydraulic shop to see if they can help.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com