Looks like the previously referenced Kickers are discontinued. Is there another option that has been tried/tested? Anyone know the max depth allowed? Can I get away with a spacer to give me a little more room and still be behind the fabric?

Want to get them ordered so I can do speakers, regulators and top hydraulics in one fell swoop...

 

I used the Pyle PLG64 ( ) in my 97 Convertible. I don't claim the are the best but they fit well and are not expensive.

 

I used JBL GTO 6528S units which were a straight switch (except for the wiring connector) But ........ they no longer seem to be available either here or in the US.
The "Stage 602E" from the same company looks pretty much identical, but I wouldn't want to guarantee that.

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but the rear speakers on a convertible are only subs.

 

Yeah, 6.5" subs. Just pulled my interior apart yesterday and found some Pioneer Coax's. Going to replace them with proper (however tiny) subs.

 

Thinking I'm going with JL 6W3V3 and 1/2" spacers to give them a little room....

 

I think it depends a bit on whether you've got the "premium" or "poverty" spec sound system !! Also - early convertibles (with the premium kit) have a 'proper' cabinet on each side with two drivers in each fed from an active crossover in the amplifier. Later cars (with the Alpine head unit & amplifier) have a different set up. Wiring is also significantly different.
These are the rear speakers in my 1997 car with the replacement JBL drivers - I left the tweeters in place although I don't think they would be doing anything useful.
There's a mid-rage driver behind the mesh on the top left I think.

 

thank you for the information. i have a 2001 convertible with the premium Alpine system. I can hear the subs by modifying the settings at the head unit. Fading to rear silences the system. My initial research and questions asked tells me so far that the convertible has no rear channel for the full range. Given that there is no rear parcel shelf it is logical that the rear speakers cannot be mounted as in a coupe. However, the area where the subs are would be a good alternative and I find it hard to believe that a high-end manufacturer installing an upgraded system would not have modified the install for this situation. Additionally, in a coupe this would also be a good location if not better for additional speakers.

The system is excellent as it is now, especially for classical and anything symphonic. It is one of my favorite aspects of the car when the hood is closed. this will require some further investigation as to what is stock and what my options are while preserving the originality of the existing system.

 

Have you seen this :

 

I am a bit of an audiophile and really rolled the dice on a very inexpensive pair of rear subs from Audiopipe and was simply blown away. My thinking was it's a convertible, high quality speakers might not be worth it. So I bought the Audiopipes on Amazon. Great bass, very clear and deep, incredibly well priced and a direct fit with the exception of the connectors.
Highly recommend them.
Just to give an idea, I have over $2K in speakers in another car. People get in that car and feel they are at a concert, or on stage with the band. Have a single 12" JL sub in that car and when I play "Hotel California" from Hell Freezes over in both cars the bass is almost identical with the Audiopipes.
Kind of pissed me off.

 

Can you tell me exactly what you did. I like the sound of this. No pun intended

 

These are the speakers I bought I pulled the end caps and saw the speaker grills were held in by tabs, so I gently pried them straight and removed the grill. Cut the stock connectors and crimped female flat connectors onto the stock wires.
The mounting holes on the Audiopipes lined up perfectly. I even used the stock screws to put them in.
Then I slid the grill back on and flattened the tabs, My right side had a vibration at volume, and I suspect the grill tabs aren't as tight as they could be. You really need to make sure the tabs are pressed as flat and tight as possible. That was a small challenge.

 

Sorry a few more questions. Where are the end caps and do they just pull off? Also have you done the door speakers yet. I think I need them replaced as well? Would the same speakers you mentioned work there too?

 

Grzidvt is referring to the "trim caps" that sit on top of the rear door pillars in the convertible.
To remove them, you need to unclip the plastic seatbelt mounting trim and then the large Torx bolt that holds the seat-belt bracket.
Then the two chromed star-head screws and washers and finally, the small "pillar-nut" for the tonneau cover.
The leather-covered caps can then be lifted off.
If you peer down - a torch helps - you can see that the fabric speaker grill is held in place by four thin metal tabs which can be bent back sufficiently to remove the grill thus giving access to the front of the actual speaker drive unit.

This might be relevant :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...rs-n-sub-4293/

 

What about the door speakers. Any advice there. Used to go on holiday in Cornwall a lot btw. Your location reminded me of that.

 

Mine are the originals as they still sound OK.
Removing the door card isn't difficult but some of the plastic clips are quite fragile so go slowly and carefully.
Someone else will probably have good advice as to possible replacements - as I understand it, they need to be fairly shallow so not a great deal of choice.

 

Sounds all very doable for someone like me with the car saviness of a teaspoon.

I hope.

 

I am late to the thread...but I have an 02 covert.


I changed the whole system. Installed a nice double din Pioneer head unit that goes to a JL 4.1 channel amp that sits right in front of the existing equip in the trunk. I then put jl subs in the back ALONG with 5.5inch JL coax plus 6" jl separates in the front which I placed in the door panel.
The sound is incredible. 1000x better than the original. I removed the speaker enclosures in the back and modified them to accept both the sub and a small coax along side it. I did use spacers in the front (about 3/4") to make it all work. I sealed it all up with sealant so no air leakage. Would highly recommend. Now I have Bluetooth to my phone, sd card for music, and the steering controls still work.

 

regger, do you have any pictures of your double din installation?

 

I'll post a pic later today. I put seat heater controls etc in the console. Another forum member posted pictures and it was surprisingly easy.