XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Differential leak - Companion flange kit vs Pinion oil seal

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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 04:31 AM
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Default Differential leak - Companion flange kit vs Pinion oil seal

Hello,

I jave noticed a slight leak on my differential (very slight, the fluid really rarely drops on the ground but the fluid can bee seen on the differential and the subframe). I read quite a few threads on this topic in the forums. As often suggested, I asked my Jag shop to check if the breather was clogged. They said that they checked it and it was functional and suggested changing the seal.

Now I have some questions regarding this change. According to the TSB 205-03 (which is from 12/1997) the whole flange kit has to be changed (pn c2n2581, previously jlm20601). This is what also the jag shop suggested doing.

In some forum threads I found suggestions, that only the pinion oil seal (pn jlm 20326) can be changed. This item is not available from jag anymore, but I found some other sources where it can be purchased online.

Here my questions
1. was the flange in the kit somehow modified compared to the one originally fitted in my vehicle? Since the TSB is from 1997 and my car is MY 2000 wouldn’t than mean that a revised version would allready be installed, if it existed? What would you recommend for my car - changing the seal only or the whole kit?

2. when changing the seal, I would also like to have the differential fluid changed. Does all the fluid flow out of the differential when the seal is changed? Or the rather complex procedure as described in some threads with “home made” tools is necessary? If I understand correctly Jaguar itself does not have an official procedure for changing the fluid?

3. Would it be recommended to change the differential shaft bearings and sealing rings at the same time? Is this change somehow connected to changing the front seal? Does it require to drain all the differential fluid again? If so, then probably it would make sense to do both jobs together.

Many thanks. Hope my questions are formulted clearly enough because my english isn’t perfect - sorry for that .



 

Last edited by keilwarm79; Oct 11, 2020 at 04:33 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 09:04 AM
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Hello,

not much answers here. I tried to find additional info on the topic. What I previously did not catch my eye is the “xylon” description in the flange kit. Could it be possible, that the seal in the flange kit is made of some other material than the old seals?



 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 06:50 PM
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Kilwarm, I do know we (Jon89) and I a good part of a day trying to remove the fill plug.
That would be where I would start my questions on doing the job, because you are going to have to fill it.
I'm very flexible but found it impossible to remove the plug and feel confident I could get it back.
With further study and advise from this Forum, I now believe I could do it, regrettably. LOL
Be sure and mark the nut and count the turns when removing it.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2020 | 08:39 PM
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They have the seals, JLR classic is only selling it with the kit because they know you’re desperate and provided you have the special tools it’s slightly more idiot proof. Europoor finally restocked on some recently.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283952710872

I just keep adding fluid on mine, messing with the preload is an easy way to break a diff anyway.
 

Last edited by xalty; Oct 14, 2020 at 09:09 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 05:09 AM
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Hello, thanks for the input. I guess with a competent dealer it shouldn’t be a problem to change only the seal then, as the TSB describes the correct procedure and positioning of the seal quite exactly.

I still look for answers to my second question about the fluid change - does it flow out when the pinion seal is changed? And my third question in the initial post - is changing the shaft bearings and sealing rings at the same time something that makes sense or is this a completely unrelated job to changing the pinion seal?

Any thoughts on the topic are higly appreciated
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 05:01 PM
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Completely different task, as each bearing needs to have the right spacing on the crown wheel gears and any little change can hasten failure. If you can get the front up on ramps or jack it high enough, then loosen the nut and pull seal, then the lose would be small on non existent.
I did look for a front seal once before and found Advance Auto showed the part (seal). Right one????
As a timed effort, it may be easier to drop the rear end out of the car, hope I never have to find out.
Be sure and write up your trials and tribulations, inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks.
 
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