Disaster! Head bolt snaps off in block!!!!!
#21
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#23
#25
Disaster Averted!
Can't wait to be on the road again!
#26
this worked for me
I realize this is a rather old thread, but my experience might help someone with the same problem.
Rather than using a bolt extractor or EZ-Out type of tool (I have had zero success with these in the past) I chose to use a set of left-handed drill bits (Warrior brand at Harbor Freight, about $8 for a set). The 3/16" bit had enough shank to reach the depth needed (approximately what you've shown in the photos) so I started with it. The hole I needed to operate on was the #2 on the left bank, and although the access was not terrible, the suspension tower was close enough that I couldn't fit the body of the drill in for a direct run; I bought a DrillPro 90 degree adaptor (Lowe's, about $20) to solve that problem.
I was concerned about beating up the threads inside the hole, so bought two 3/8" x 1/4" steel spacers (Lowe's, about $1 each) to line the hole.
While I was figuring this out I soaked the bolt hole with several changes of penetrating oil over a period of two days, occasionally using an old door hinge pin with a hammer to shock the bolt end loose . Before starting the operation, I hit the stuck bolt surface with a 1/4" centerpunch to help secure the end of the drill bit.
The 3/16" bit worked well (applied a few seconds at a time, on and off) and I used a small telescoping magnet to pull out the debris during the process. I finally felt the bolt end starting to come up, When that happened I switched up to the next size bit, and the bolt end zipped right out. I checked the threads by running in a new bolt (after cleaning the hole out thoroughly, using a disposable shop towel, silicone lubricant and a narrow bottle-brush). All good.
Hope this helps someone.
Rather than using a bolt extractor or EZ-Out type of tool (I have had zero success with these in the past) I chose to use a set of left-handed drill bits (Warrior brand at Harbor Freight, about $8 for a set). The 3/16" bit had enough shank to reach the depth needed (approximately what you've shown in the photos) so I started with it. The hole I needed to operate on was the #2 on the left bank, and although the access was not terrible, the suspension tower was close enough that I couldn't fit the body of the drill in for a direct run; I bought a DrillPro 90 degree adaptor (Lowe's, about $20) to solve that problem.
I was concerned about beating up the threads inside the hole, so bought two 3/8" x 1/4" steel spacers (Lowe's, about $1 each) to line the hole.
While I was figuring this out I soaked the bolt hole with several changes of penetrating oil over a period of two days, occasionally using an old door hinge pin with a hammer to shock the bolt end loose . Before starting the operation, I hit the stuck bolt surface with a 1/4" centerpunch to help secure the end of the drill bit.
The 3/16" bit worked well (applied a few seconds at a time, on and off) and I used a small telescoping magnet to pull out the debris during the process. I finally felt the bolt end starting to come up, When that happened I switched up to the next size bit, and the bolt end zipped right out. I checked the threads by running in a new bolt (after cleaning the hole out thoroughly, using a disposable shop towel, silicone lubricant and a narrow bottle-brush). All good.
Hope this helps someone.
Last edited by aced704; 09-13-2023 at 12:15 PM. Reason: added info, corrected typo
The following 2 users liked this post by aced704:
motorcarman (09-13-2023),
sklimii (09-14-2023)
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