Frog, your problem are those crappy wheels you have. Just send them to me and get some nice chrome Revolvers.

 

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I have seen that spreadsheet before.

I *finally* worked out with the aid of a bottle lid as a wheel that if the half shaft is considered a fixed mount, the front of the wishbone is considered a fixed mount, and the rear of the wishbone is considered a movable point, then a toe adustment affects both camber and toe. If there is excessive positive toe, and excessive negative camber, then both will move towards the good side as the positive toe is backed out. How much? Don't know yet

The rear of the XJR is currently sitting with about 0.4 degrees toe-in and -1.5 degrees camber. The goal is zero'ish toe and if the camber goes more to the vertical, then all is good

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that the FRONT of the outer end of the wishbone (at the Hub Carrier) is where the Pivot Pin Eccentric action (for Toe adjustment) occurs. If this is true, then reducing the Toe-In will INCREASE Negative Camber.

 

I took my 2003 xk8 to a local goodyear tire shop. Thjey have a laser alingment system where they shoot the beams to the targets mounted to the wheels. Anyway, my left camber angle is at -1.0 degrees. This is a failure. They could not correct it as there is no real adjustment. The car is stock with no suspention mods. My thought would be that it should be about the same as the right which is -.8 degrees.

Question how do I change the camber angle and what shims should I use?

 

If the XK is the same as the XJ of similar vintage, and I believe it is ... the nut is at the front of the wishbone and the bolt head is at the rear.

The nut is a conventional self locker riding against a flat surface. The bolt head has an integral fixed eccentric which rides in a groove in the rear of the wishbone. The position of the rear mount relative to the hub is dependent on the orientation of the bolt head since the eccentric moves within the groove.

If you want to confirm, it is at least easy to see since you only need to look from the back of the car instead of crawling underneath the rocker.

The most painful part of the process is putting 75'ish ft/lb on the nut while the car is flat on the ground *and* keeping the bolt head from turning even a smidge. Easy on a alignment rack or pit. On the ground ... not so much

 

It's only 0.1 degrees. Nothing to obsess about.

You have not specified what your rear toe is. If the toe on the left is greater than the toe on the right, then you may be able to get that 0.1 degree by adjusting the toe on the left.

 

Upon Further Review:

YOU'RE RIGHT!!!!! (of course). The Rear of my Bolt has markings that the Jag Dealer put on it (to preserve Toe setting) when they installed my Lowering Springs.

 

Plums,

Left rear Camber is -1.0. Left Rear toe .18, right rear camber -.8 and right rear toe is .15

 

If you change left rear toe to match right rear toe, the tire will also stand straighter. But it would be a very small amount.

It is doubtful that the exercise is worthwhile because you are going to be asking the shop for a 3/100ths of a degree change.

 

s'alright you are generally right most of the time

Some additional notes on rear toe are posted for reference here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...12/#post717842