Door Actuator swap causing crank no start?
Hello all, thanks to @Johnken for helping me frame this question;
I have a 1999 jaguar xk8, recently replaced the door lock actuator assembly with a 2001 actuator.
was I correct in thinking that this was a plug and play job?
a little after replacing the actuator (which tested perfectly normal, no heap of issues that the previous one had such as windows not working/rolling up and down, key fob finnicky locking etc) the car would not start, only crank.
for a couple more weeks I went through the simple diagnosis' that I could do on my own with the help of fellow enthusiasts online, such as Schrader valve test (had fuel at rail), swapping any related relays, inertia switch reset, battery reset, voltage testing, fuel pump, no red lights or dash immobilizer related lights other than check engine when cranking, all functioned, but still no start.
Today I pulled the driver door control module fuse, No. 15, 25 amp drivers side fascia, and the car actually tried to start, it sputtered, made more progress again, blew out some smoke, I assume this is from sitting for a while and with a couple more tries it will start fully, charging battery some more first, this is huge progress compared to the weeks of crank only prior to fuse pull.
I fully lowered the window and put a towel on the latch prior to this because I am not sure what pulling this fuse would do to the door, may lock it shut inhibiting access to the fuse, I assume window will cease function which is why I lowered it, handles may not work, no idea so not risking it.
Stored codes: No MIL codes other than p1111 all clear, but 2 network codes, 1/2 is U1135, 2/2 is U1041
Question in summary: Is there any chance my door lock actuator replacement/drivers door module communication affects starting?
attached is a reference link regarding U1135 but with different symptoms than mine
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...solved-132793/
Thank you for reading, and thanks again @Johnken for the consistent helping hand getting to this point.
I have a 1999 jaguar xk8, recently replaced the door lock actuator assembly with a 2001 actuator.
was I correct in thinking that this was a plug and play job?
a little after replacing the actuator (which tested perfectly normal, no heap of issues that the previous one had such as windows not working/rolling up and down, key fob finnicky locking etc) the car would not start, only crank.
for a couple more weeks I went through the simple diagnosis' that I could do on my own with the help of fellow enthusiasts online, such as Schrader valve test (had fuel at rail), swapping any related relays, inertia switch reset, battery reset, voltage testing, fuel pump, no red lights or dash immobilizer related lights other than check engine when cranking, all functioned, but still no start.
Today I pulled the driver door control module fuse, No. 15, 25 amp drivers side fascia, and the car actually tried to start, it sputtered, made more progress again, blew out some smoke, I assume this is from sitting for a while and with a couple more tries it will start fully, charging battery some more first, this is huge progress compared to the weeks of crank only prior to fuse pull.
I fully lowered the window and put a towel on the latch prior to this because I am not sure what pulling this fuse would do to the door, may lock it shut inhibiting access to the fuse, I assume window will cease function which is why I lowered it, handles may not work, no idea so not risking it.
Stored codes: No MIL codes other than p1111 all clear, but 2 network codes, 1/2 is U1135, 2/2 is U1041
Question in summary: Is there any chance my door lock actuator replacement/drivers door module communication affects starting?
attached is a reference link regarding U1135 but with different symptoms than mine
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...solved-132793/
Thank you for reading, and thanks again @Johnken for the consistent helping hand getting to this point.
With everything closed up on the car, can you use your key in the door lock to lock and unlock the door/car,,, getting the little CHIRP? Or, chirp x2?
Do some digging. Is there a fuse for the Security Locking Module, aka SCLM?
Do some digging. Is there a fuse for the Security Locking Module, aka SCLM?
Last edited by JayJagJay; Nov 15, 2022 at 05:27 AM.
Was this the right hand or left hand door?
In the door jam fuse boxs, are ANY of the fuses involved in start up systems? Have you gone thru and either taken a reading or visually inspected EVERY fuse in the door jam fuse boxes? Which fuses power the door control modules?
You might want to go back in and look for frayed or pinched wires. May sound strange, but there is a story. Always a story with Jaguars.
There have been folks who have removed the screws for the sun visors. On re-install of visors, there is a wire in the area that can become pinched/shorted. Car won't start/run with this short. Crazy, right? But I kid you not.
Last edited by JayJagJay; Nov 16, 2022 at 06:30 AM.
Hello all,
I apologize for not quickly following up on this.
post trying bore wash method again (cranking 20 seconds 3x with kickdown switch, then slowly releasing throttle while cranking) with the fuse pulled, the car finally started.
I do feel that I did the method better this time than trying the release prior to this, but still the car only started with the fuse pulled, coincidence? maybe, I put the fuse back in after and the car worked with it. I am probably grasping at straws here, it was probably simply bore washed. although the main fault codes I were getting were door locking related.
I did not use the car enough over the next 2 weeks, and upon starting again I had to go through bore wash method another time (tried without fuse pulled, no start, tried with fuse pulled once, no start, tried with fuse pulled twice, start) again this could be coincidence, likely so, but still interesting pertaining to the fuse.
I did make the mistake of holding the key cranking a few seconds too long once the car actually started for the very first time, I hope I did not mess anything up.
sorry again for not following up on this for a bit, I don't want to be the type to ask for help and then leave.
I apologize for not quickly following up on this.
post trying bore wash method again (cranking 20 seconds 3x with kickdown switch, then slowly releasing throttle while cranking) with the fuse pulled, the car finally started.
I do feel that I did the method better this time than trying the release prior to this, but still the car only started with the fuse pulled, coincidence? maybe, I put the fuse back in after and the car worked with it. I am probably grasping at straws here, it was probably simply bore washed. although the main fault codes I were getting were door locking related.
I did not use the car enough over the next 2 weeks, and upon starting again I had to go through bore wash method another time (tried without fuse pulled, no start, tried with fuse pulled once, no start, tried with fuse pulled twice, start) again this could be coincidence, likely so, but still interesting pertaining to the fuse.
I did make the mistake of holding the key cranking a few seconds too long once the car actually started for the very first time, I hope I did not mess anything up.
sorry again for not following up on this for a bit, I don't want to be the type to ask for help and then leave.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)












