I installed a remote starter and it worked fine. I had one last thing to do, hookup the door unlock wire so that the remote starter could unlock the door for entry into the XK8 (1999), otherwise you have to use the key as the OEM door unlock is apparently disabled by the remote starter (per Adam699 in a previous post). I think I screwed something up because now whenever I lock the doors the doors cycle 4 times and then the alarm sounds. I checked all the fuses, and believe the microswitch is good as the windows raise and lower when I open and close the door.

One possible reason it is messed up is that I applied positive 12V to what I believe was the door unlock wire when I should've probably applied negative 12V. I stripped some of the cover off of the unlock wire coming off the driver's door lock switch (Wiring diagram Fig 10.1 Orange/Blue wire DD3-11 going to DD11-4 on the drivers door control module). Again, I checked all the fuses AFTER applying positive power inadvertently and all the fuses appear fine. I also installed a different Drivers Control Module (DCM) and I have the same symptoms, so I believe I've ruled out the DCM as the culprit. As I said, the when I open and close the door the window cycles properly. I can lock and unlock the door with the key. However, when I use the key to lock the car it cycles 4x then triggers the alarm (I believe this is correct). I went into the driver's door and popped open the DD3 connector and jumpered across the driver's door switch (shown in Wiring diagram figure 13.1 Black/Pink wire DD3-7 and the Green/Yellow wire DD3-6). That makes the window cycle as though the door is being opened or closed (slightly down then slightly up). I leave the jumper in to simulate the door being closed and then I try to set the alarm again but it still sends it into the door cycling four times and then the alarm triggering routine. Therefore, I believe the door microswitch isn't the problem.

One other thing, once the doors cycle 4 times and the alarm sounds I can stop the alarm with the OEM key fob and then the car will lock (but I think the alarm is off then).

I am wondering whether anyone has any ideas of what I can test, or behaviors I can observe, to assist me in isolating this problem. Perhaps I am not jumpering the correct wires to bypass the door microswitch. Or, is there another switch I should be looking at? Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

Don't hook it up to the module in the door. Hook it up to the button in the center console (above the radio) that goes to the BCM.

 

I'll try that. But, any idea how to solve the OEM alarm triggering problem? It is doing this with nothing from the remote starter hooked up to the door unlock/unlock at this point. Problem is, now I can't even use the car as my wife is not keen with the alarm sounding every time she goes to get in or out of the car.

 

I'm notnsure how to reaolve it if you fried something, but the unlock input from the center console disarms the alarm, that's why I wired it up this way.

 

Check all of the microswitches in the door latch as shown in figure 13.1. After everything you have tested, I think this is just a coincidence and that you did not do any damage, but one of the microswitches has failed.

 

1) This is on my 1999 XK8. I am not aware of any door unlock button anywhere on the center console. I have to operate the door handle to lock or unlock the doors from inside the car (unless I am missing something). I assume that the unlock signal (wire) from there will disarm the alarm. I am attaching a picture of my center console.

2) With regard to the alarm triggering issue, While I was working on the driver's door connector (DD3) the window began partially opening and partially closing (as though the door was being opened) which leads me to believe there is a short in that connector (and on the relevant circuit it appears). I am going to pull the door latch and repair any shorts and see if that solves my problem. WHITEXKR, I just noticed your post (after posting this). I think you are right. I think the switch is probably still good, but the wiring to it is shorted. Most likely at the plug. I think I pulled on it too hard try to separate it, thus causing the short/poor connection.

 

XJ models have the lock button on the dash, I dont know of any xk8/r with it.

 

As far as getting back to the original problem of getting the Remote Starter to unlock the XK8 Door(s), Does anyone know if I am on the right track using the "unlock" wire on the drivers door lock switches (Orange/Blue wire) or which alternate wire I should use to unlock the driver's door with the remote starter signal?

Also, it looks like that wire is positive (Orange/Blue) as directly upstream from the drivers door lock switches is fuse 38 (38 inside a square box on the wiring diagram) which makes me think it is actually a positive signal there, and that I should be using a positive signal to trigger the door unlock.... (it goes from the drivers door lock switches to the drivers door control module (and shows it as a "i" inside a triangle, or "input" at the Body Control Module, which I just assume would be a negative input))

On the other hand, if I look at the switch below it on the diagram, that switch appears to start at ground (negative) and goes to the Body Control Module (through the drivers door switch) and not from a fuse (or positive) like the drivers door lock switch.

It's probably best to look at the wiring diagram as the switches have very similar names and it makes more sense if you look at the wiring. I am trying to be very specific though with my explanation.
Wiring Diagram here: http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...ec%20Guide.pdf (Figure 13.1 or 15.1)

So, bottom line, which circuit (and which wire) should I apply a signal to in order to unlock the car (and disarm the OEM alarm), and what polarity is the signal?

 

My bad. I thought you were working on an XJ.

This should help:

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew...gdiagrams.aspx

Type B means negative input.

This has the diagram:

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/ke100_150_1702.pdf

 

Yes, that was what I was working off of, or a similar list. That is why I was using the Orange/Blue wire and why I concluded it was a negative signal that was needed. Once I fix the door latch wiring (the short in the plug DD3) I will try gain using a negative 12V signal on the Orange/Blue wire. I will report back on that.

ON a related note, Adam699, how did you hookup the hood switch disconnect (grey wire I think on the RS-230-DP)? Did you install the hood open switch provided with the unit, or did you tie into the Jag's wiring? Did you go through the firewall (if so where)?

P.S. Again, Adam699 thanks for your original post on this subject, and your subsequent help.