So shouldn't I get a door closed message when the wires are not touching?

 

Err - there is no 'door closed' message.
All that happens is the 'door open' message goes away and the BPM raises the window.

 

My mistake. The message should go away and it isn't.

 

With the door CLOSED the switch should be OPEN, with the door AJAR or OPEN the switch should be CLOSED. See the attached link.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...000xk8%205.jpg

 

Gus, that is correct SO if David doesn't have his 'door open' message go away there's something else wrong.
David - have you done a 'hard reset' after messing about with shorting the switch wires?
If so it looks as if there's a problem with the door wires rather than the switch.
I haven't seen this but, bearing in mind the cables get flexed every time the door opens, it is possible.

 

Test the latch switch disconnected from the car if the status changes as I indicated above then you need to look elsewhere. If it does not change recheck your new switch and application. If the switch is good then look to see if it is fastened correctly if it is loose it may give you bad results. Good luck!

 

Here's some pictures.

 

The issue was the same before "shorting the switch wires". It shouldn't have caused a problem seeing how the wires touching is no different then a condition created in the switch.
I did the hard reset and the only thing that changed is now the pass door open message is gone. But nothing I do with the switch changes anything.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. The two leads that go to the switch when touched together and pulled apart are doing the exact same thing as when they are connected to the switch and it's opening and closing. If that's true and nothing is changing when the wires are together or not then the problem is somewhere else.

 

It's starting to look like something much worse/expensive is wrong then a bad switch. After the hard reset I don't get the open pass door message like I was getting. I hooked up the new switch, no change. I hooked up the old switch to see if maybe it was working now, no change. I noticed that when I locked the door it wouldn't stay locked, which is what would happen if a door was open even though I'm not getting a open door message. It didn't matter if I locked it from the driver or pass. side. When trying different combinations of car off, key out, car on or running, I noticed twice that I got a drivers open door message which went away if I opened and closed the door. Also every once and awhile when I locked one of the doors the other wouldn't lock. On top of all that, for the last 9 months I've had to reset my windows a lot. This can't be good.

 

The door latch sends a signal to the door control module, I would swap out the control module and put the suspected bad one in the passenger door. You know that the passenger door is working properly and if the status changes after the swap you will know that is the problem.

When you do any electrical work on your car you should always disconnect the battery, make you modification and then connect the battery.

 

Do you think it could be the security control lock module?

 

Anything is possible but the big problem we all have is jumping around from one thing to another. One step at a time and check the door control module first against the other and see what you come up with. I will also provide you a link to your 2000 xk8 oneline diagram and look at page #120

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa.../jagxk2000.pdf

 

Now the drivers door is showing an open door message with much more frequency and it happens while the door is closed. Then open and close it and it's okay. Plus the way I'm always having to reset the drivers door window.

 

With ignition on check the green wire - should have either +5 or +12v relative to earth.
Also check the black wire is grounded.

You can also check pin 20 on the driver door module which is where the supply to the switch comes from.
The door module also controls the windows so a defective module or a bad earth could be the culprit.
Check the earth continuity at pins 8 and 17.
As Gus says, if the wiring seems OK then you could try swapping modules (the passenger side has no lock input).
If we can exclude the microswitch I think it would help if I move this to a new thread.

 

If the problem is in winter, as mine is here in Switzerland at -15C. I used WD40, bought some Omron switches and now the weather has warmed up, the problem has gone away, although this may be temporary. If it is cold, WD40 and hot air may give some easing of the problem?
Two years ago, also in winter, I had the tick tick of the evap valve, but warmer weather cured that too.

 

I had to take a break, but now I'm back to try and resolve this. I've got 5.8 volts. It's the same if the ignition is on or off.

 

Sounds good to me.
Can you check if it goes to zero when the switch closes - if so it points to the BPM

 

I tested with the switch wired in and with the lever on switch not depressed and I get a beep which I guess shows continuity. With the lever depressed I show 5.7 volts. It's the same for both the new and old switch. I also found out that my battery was low (5 years old). Since I replaced it I haven't seen the random message that my drivers door was open while it's been closed. I'm also assuming that's why I had to keep resetting my windows for the last 6 months.

What's the BPM?

 

What's the next step?

 

BPM = body processor module.
Put your meter set to volts on the junction of the green/red wire and the two black wires (ie across the switch).
Without touching the switch there should be 0V between them.
Pressing the switch should give 5V.