The driver side window grinds to a halt about 1/2 way up. It went bad suddenly when it catch the outside door molding. I can lower it and raise it about half way, when it grinds to a halt.I have the door panel off, but everything looks good. The simple adjustments (per JTIS) to adjust the limits and angle don't seem to be the problem- tried to adjust both and didn't fix it. I am hoping somebody has had this problem and there's a simple fix

 

Hi.
It could be either electrical or mechanical. I think it is mechanical. Take a look at attatched TSBs. Be sure to adjust/fasten fwd/aft tilt nut. This was my problem with similar symptoms.
It could also have jumped the guiding rail or broken some teeth in the lowering mechanism.

 

thanks. had seen these.
this appears a little different. Problem is definitely mechanical. windows rolls up and down and "grinds" to a halt about 1/2 way up. And it is obviously that the motor is under a heavy load when it stops.
tried to adjust the in-out rail alignment since that would seem the most obvious (this is the bottom rear of door) but that didn't do anything. the rear guide securing screw (step 9 in your ref) would seem to be a solution, but don't see how it actually adjusts anything.
haven't pulled the outer waist molding off yet ( the molding strip on the outside of the door sealing the window). that looks like something that might be very hard to get back on- but that seems to be where the problem is.

 

The Door Waist Rail is a regular issue for corrosion because of poor priming by the manufacturer.

The most noticeable result is the paint flaking on the outside but the metal can also oxidise very badly on the section in contact with the door frame causing the metal to press against the door glass.

Check this thread for info with photos on removing and refurbishing the Waist Rail:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rim-faq-55561/

Keith Westra did this on his 4.0 litre with the Dorchester Gray trim and I did it on my 2005 4.2 XK8 with the Satin Black trim.

Graham

 

thanks for ref on removing trim. will try it. One guy said it was very easy-just popped off; the other reported he couldn't get it off. With my luck, I will be in the 2nd category.

 

Hi.
The door waist seal pulls straight up. Be careful so you don't bend it. It is very hard to straighten out again.
My window problem was the fore/aft tilt or parallelism as described in step 20 in the TSB. The lock nut was travelling back and fore in the slot.

 

I'm in category 1- just pulled off with very little force. allows me to see what is happening. window is too far forward. Its hitting a white plastic guide and coming to a stop. don't see anyway to move whole assembly back so will hope it is the parallelism- will try step 20 and hope for best.

 

thank Oyster, the problem was that channel adjuster locknut.
I didn't even know it was there- didn't brother to read the tech sheet all the way to the end.
Now have to do all the other adjustments that I had messed with before I hit on the channel adjuster; there goes the rest of the day.

 

Nice to hear you got it sorted. When adjusting be sure you get a snug fit between door window and rear quarter glass.
A gap here will give you water leaks and wind noise.