E brake and Hub Removal
Man I'm frustrated, sorry to have to ask for help (again). I'm in the process of removing my drivers side rear hub/carrier assembly to replace the bearings.
All was going well until I went to work on the Emergency Brake cable.
The instructions tell me to loosen but do not remove the cable equalizer nut, done.
Then it tells me to release the appropriate side parking brake cable from the Connecting clip. JThe connecting clip is on the other side of the equalizer, that's not the problem, I could easily thread the cable back through it if I could unhook it from this connector. It is rusted in place.
I just drowned it in PBlaster and will wait a bit. Did anyone run into this ever? What's the best way to "nudge" the cable end out of this conector? Grap 2 pliers and start twisting/pushing hoping to release it? I'm reluctant to use a flat blade screw driver to loosen the tension on the connection unless you tell me to. That could screw up the connector and make my life hell.
Lets say I get that disconnected. Instructions stop at "withdraw the parking brake cable through equalizer". I've still got a hub with 2 feet of parking brake cable sticking out of it and it goes through a grommet in the chassis.
I've unclipped that grommet, an easy C clip to remove. Should I assume this is made to be forced back through the chassis, just use leverage?
After that it looks like I have to remove the E brake hardware from the hub. Ironically they don't even tell you to do that in the jaguar workshop manual. Guess it's assumed.
In a nutshell:
1) How have you suceeded freeing up the cable from the connecting clip?
2) Is it OK to leverage and force/pull the grommet back throught the chassis since I've removed the C Clip?
3) Might as well check, I am making this too difficult? Is there a better way?
Thanks for looking. Laughing to self: I thought I'd never have to change a drum brake again (hate that job), but this emergency brake is just that.
John
All was going well until I went to work on the Emergency Brake cable.
The instructions tell me to loosen but do not remove the cable equalizer nut, done.
Then it tells me to release the appropriate side parking brake cable from the Connecting clip. JThe connecting clip is on the other side of the equalizer, that's not the problem, I could easily thread the cable back through it if I could unhook it from this connector. It is rusted in place.
I just drowned it in PBlaster and will wait a bit. Did anyone run into this ever? What's the best way to "nudge" the cable end out of this conector? Grap 2 pliers and start twisting/pushing hoping to release it? I'm reluctant to use a flat blade screw driver to loosen the tension on the connection unless you tell me to. That could screw up the connector and make my life hell.
Lets say I get that disconnected. Instructions stop at "withdraw the parking brake cable through equalizer". I've still got a hub with 2 feet of parking brake cable sticking out of it and it goes through a grommet in the chassis.
I've unclipped that grommet, an easy C clip to remove. Should I assume this is made to be forced back through the chassis, just use leverage?
After that it looks like I have to remove the E brake hardware from the hub. Ironically they don't even tell you to do that in the jaguar workshop manual. Guess it's assumed.
In a nutshell:
1) How have you suceeded freeing up the cable from the connecting clip?
2) Is it OK to leverage and force/pull the grommet back throught the chassis since I've removed the C Clip?
3) Might as well check, I am making this too difficult? Is there a better way?
Thanks for looking. Laughing to self: I thought I'd never have to change a drum brake again (hate that job), but this emergency brake is just that.
John
Gus, your photo was the key. For the next guy:
This clip is a PIA. There is an open channel on the top. On the bottom, there is a tab which protrudes into the channel. This tab obstructs movement of the ferrule on the end of the cable.
Even if you get a small flat blade screw driver in there to release the tab, have WD40 ready. The ferrule doesn't exactly slide in the channel without lots (and lots) of help. You may have to widen the channel a bit, and you are sure to need pliers to grasp the clip in 1 hand, and to push the cable with the other hand.
Oh yes, in case you wonder - once you remove the C clip, the grommet can be levered through the chassis. I used extra long long nose pliers.
Thanks Gus, Thanks Jandreau, and everyone else.
John
This clip is a PIA. There is an open channel on the top. On the bottom, there is a tab which protrudes into the channel. This tab obstructs movement of the ferrule on the end of the cable.
Even if you get a small flat blade screw driver in there to release the tab, have WD40 ready. The ferrule doesn't exactly slide in the channel without lots (and lots) of help. You may have to widen the channel a bit, and you are sure to need pliers to grasp the clip in 1 hand, and to push the cable with the other hand.
Oh yes, in case you wonder - once you remove the C clip, the grommet can be levered through the chassis. I used extra long long nose pliers.
Thanks Gus, Thanks Jandreau, and everyone else.
John








