Engine mounts
It looks to me like I need to remove the steering ujoint to be able to get the mount out. What was your path for removal of the mount?
Anyone know where this procedure is described in JTIS??
Anyone know where this procedure is described in JTIS??
Last edited by stevepaa; Aug 24, 2016 at 05:54 AM.
thanks gus
for anyone else, once you jack up the engine high enough to get old ones out, you will discover that you need to go higher to get new ones in.
easy to exchange once high enough.
good luck took me about 8 hours going nice and slow
getting that steering knuckle back on is a pita
for anyone else, once you jack up the engine high enough to get old ones out, you will discover that you need to go higher to get new ones in.
easy to exchange once high enough.
good luck took me about 8 hours going nice and slow
getting that steering knuckle back on is a pita
Last edited by stevepaa; Aug 24, 2016 at 04:03 PM.
Just performed this repair, and thanks to this thread it was not that bad. A couple of things I learned, that I thought I would add for other's in the future:
1) Ratcheting crowfeet will not work for the upper nut- they need to be longer.
2) A 3/8 drive short breaker bar, with short 15mm socket, worked for both sides to break the top nut free. On the passenger side, I worked from the top, and used a long bar to lever against the frame rail, pushing toward the engine to break the nut free. Once broken free, I was able to remove using my fingers. For replacement on the passenger side, I used a short ( 8") 3/8 socket wrench to tighten the nut.
3) Had to drop the steering rack to get access to the driver's side. 4 bolts, as previously stated, but I found that 1/2" socket fit better than 13mm. Don't know if they were changed out sometime in the past or not.
4) for the Driver's side top nut, I found it easiest to reach using the same short breaker bar, but from underneath and from the rear. Plenty of access once the steering knuckle was detached. Used the same long bar, levering against the inner fender, to break the nut free. Fingers only again after it was loose.
5) My old mounts were marked ( engraved) with the date of installation, and thought this waa a good idea. Did the same, plus Sharpie marks as well. Face the date so it can be seen from the rear when the car is on a lift.
HTH.
1) Ratcheting crowfeet will not work for the upper nut- they need to be longer.
2) A 3/8 drive short breaker bar, with short 15mm socket, worked for both sides to break the top nut free. On the passenger side, I worked from the top, and used a long bar to lever against the frame rail, pushing toward the engine to break the nut free. Once broken free, I was able to remove using my fingers. For replacement on the passenger side, I used a short ( 8") 3/8 socket wrench to tighten the nut.
3) Had to drop the steering rack to get access to the driver's side. 4 bolts, as previously stated, but I found that 1/2" socket fit better than 13mm. Don't know if they were changed out sometime in the past or not.
4) for the Driver's side top nut, I found it easiest to reach using the same short breaker bar, but from underneath and from the rear. Plenty of access once the steering knuckle was detached. Used the same long bar, levering against the inner fender, to break the nut free. Fingers only again after it was loose.
5) My old mounts were marked ( engraved) with the date of installation, and thought this waa a good idea. Did the same, plus Sharpie marks as well. Face the date so it can be seen from the rear when the car is on a lift.
HTH.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rusty37
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
6
Apr 5, 2020 07:40 PM
Tar
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
13
Sep 6, 2015 11:24 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)








