I cleaned the throttle body into not working?

 

Maybe the car has forgotten the idle pre-set. There is a procedure for it to re-learn but I just do the hard reset, touch negative and positive cables, or leave battery disconnected over night, and car seems to reset, but needs to relearn.

Don’t worry if car over-revs when you reconnect and start... that’s normal

 

A clogged fuel filter requires the fuel pump to work considerably harder. Your pump may be damaged....

 

I was hoping it wouldn’t come to the fuel pump. For some reason it costs $600+ for my car.

I didn’t have a fuel pressure gauge with me, but I pushed on the Schrader valve pin and the fuel dribbled out instead of shooting out with the key in position II.

 

If you indeed do need a new fuel pump, there should be aftermarket versions available. Just be sure to match them up properly....

 

Can not smell any fresh gas through the exhaust. Ground strap seems fine. I thought the immobiliser was in the driver's side fuse box, if it's in the foot well that would explain why I couldn't find it, although it seems unlikely that it would be the issue if I have managed to start the car only for it to stall. Battery is quite new and the battery connections are in good shape.


This seems like a long shot. I might try it when I begin to feel like all hope is lost.

I tried welsh, partsgeek, SNG, XKS Unlimited, Motorcars LTD, Jagbits, Terry's and Ebay. Cheapest price I have seen is $734 at Welsh, and all list them as a fuel pump module. Surely, it must be possible separate the fuel pump from the module and only swap that. Fuel pump module C2N1147 must be made out of pure unobtainium.

Any ideas?

 

I was perusing the Non - OEM interchangeable parts thread and found this:


However, his is a 2004 XK8, whereas mine is a 2004 XKR. That means his fuel pump module is C2N1146, whereas mine is C2N1147. Is there much of a difference between both parts? What problems will retrofitting a pump that is 5 psi over spec cause? The cost of the pump at O'Reilly's is $83.99, but I'd have to get it shipped to Puerto Rico.


After much reading in the forums, I learned that the XK8 pump is not compatible with the XKR. I will search for a used pump if possible.

I also learned that running the car until very low (as I often did) is a sure fire way to burn the pump.

 

The pumps for the older models had a strainer on the pickup which could become clogged. Does anyone know if this pump has a strainer?

 

Did you read the link I put to bore wash?

If you use the WOT, depending on what type of engine you have, and hold that down whilst cranking it should lubricate the bores again for you. Seal them and provide compression.

Footnote. From reading the topic from the start I noticed you have a 2004 XKR? It should work for you.

 

Clogged injectors ?


Z

 

I had always been under the impression that bore wash is a problem with the 4.0 engines and not the 4.2. Also, I was in the middle of the highway when the engine stalled. I had been driving for quite a while but then. It seems unlikely to me.


All 8 of them??? What are the odds of that?

 

partially clogged injectors will keep a car from starting. Deposits build up, fine debris will get past a fuel filter. It happens. Many V-8’s won’t even try to start on less than 4 or 5 cylinders.

is that your issue ? I don’t know. But no gassy smell is evident . Where is it getting stopped ?

Z

 

Would pressure at the fuel rail be low if the injectors are clogged?

 

would that condition also possibly be related to a fuel pump that is not putting out full pressure, or partially clogged fuel line(s) ? Fuel lines are relatively easy to blow out and see if any blockage comes out of them.

New fuel filter, right ? So that’s out of the mix.

Z

 

Yes, new filter. What would be the best way to blow out the fuel line? From the connection to the fuel filter, or from the connection to the fuel rail? I have to admit, I haven't looked at the car today because I've been studying.

 

usually the preferred direction is to blow against the flow of the fuel

 

Alright, so I disconnect after the fuel filter and from the fuel rail and blow from the fuel rail. Is there a risk of breaking the lines if I blow too hard and they’re clogged?

I’m thinking I need to remove the fuel tank and clean it out. What’s the best way to do this on a coupe?

 

Suggestions are all over the place on this.

1. You have determined that you are not getting fuel to the fuel rail.
2. Can you hear the pump running? If no, check the fuel pump relay.
3. Relay good and pump not running? Disconnect the lead and verify you have power to the pump.
4. No power, find and fix. Power is good = pump is bad.

The odds you have a clogged fuel line are virtually nil. Clogged pump filter is equally unlikely unless you are getting horrible quality gas.

 

I can hear the pump running, however, not from inside the passenger compartment, I can only hear it from inside the trunk on its initial burst. Afterwards not much more can be heard even if I leave the key in the II position. I think the pump may be weak.

 

Am i missing something here, but I think that the preoccupation with the fuel supply seems to defy logic?

To my way of thinking, and forgive me if I am wrong but if the car ran above idle, and you kept it alive, then the pump is delivering more fuel than is required for idle. Which would to my mind establish that it must be working satisfactorily. I mean why would it clog up on a run, that I don't get. Left for a year without running, i get, but hot and running?

So the question to ask is what is the difference between and idle and running engine? The answer has to be the mixture of air to gas of 14:1. When you open up the throttle the ratio becomes less significant, that is the bleed level for idle becomes less critical, so my logic would point to an air leak, or the the computer for fuel metering, or MAF, thinks there's less air going in than there actually is. So either the computer doesn't calculate the correct fuel metering, for whatever reason, and therefore the engine cannot idle?