I have never tried any of these options, never had to. 50/50 coolant works for me but reading these posts has me thinking...

If you wanted to remove all coolant from the engine, why couldn't you drain, flush, drain, flush with pure water until all that was in the system was water?

You might have to operate the heat and air conditioning system to get valves cycling to flush every part of the system, but this seems easier than tearing your engine apart.

I can't imagine using 100% water. From what I know, coolant helps at both ends, with freezing and boilover. I will admit to never doing any actual testing to find out.

I agree that some of these ideas may be masking another problem that needs to be addressed.

 

there are numerous strategies for flushing coolant from an engine, however none of them will circulate the water thru the engine block in a way that moves pockets of antifreeze existing in dead end passages. Water running clean out of a drain is no indicator of all antifreeze eliminated from the engine.

No telling how many engines I've disassembled since my first one in the early 1960's. A few thousand I guess. Despite draining the oil and coolant from every one of them, and flushing the radiator and engine engine multiple times, There was ALWAYS 1 to 3 cups of untouched antifreeze that came out when the block , cylinder heads, and intake manifold were removed.

For these reasons you can easily find products that advertise the ability to neutralize all types of antifreeze. Once that's been accomplished one can switch from one type of antifreeze to another type without the typical compatibility issues arising from the mixing of two different products.

In particular, Evans does sell a product (@ +$25) that supposedly neutralizes all antifreeze that can't be flushed out. I've never used it. The times I put Evans in engines at the request of the owner it was always after an overhaul.

Z


PS looking at some of the antifreeze boiling point charts that have been posted, one can see that (under pressure) antifreeze indeed does raise the boiling point a few degrees. But it does this at the expense of also raising the engine operating temperature due to reduced heat transfer vs pure water. If one doesn't need the freeze protection of 50/50 antifreeze, a lessor concentration of it will provide lubrication of the water pump, etc with no ill effects, and your engine will run a bit cooler.

 

I think that people that have read this post should know about the cons too. Better read this: https://greengarageblog.org/17-water...-pros-and-cons

 

^^^^^^ this !

Evans may be just the ticket for a unique situation, but I’m not sold on it.

For climates that don’t see freezing temperatures I prefer a 20% solution of antifreeze, with Prestone Low-Tox being my #1 choice. Due entirely to its safety.

Z

 

Duplicate

 

While we ar on the subject of hocus Pocus the engine temp is determined by the Thermostat .I have an 84 deg C one in and the temp sits at 88 deg .I have the low-speed fans on when the engine runs.
I checked on some reviews on waterless coolant and one correspondent said that after 5 applications his haemorrhoids had shrunk and he could now sit down .....well it was a coolant !!!

 

Me too. Evan’s waterless coolant is thicker in dynamic viscosity than water-based coolant. Being slightly thicker means it will flow slower through all the galleries of the Head, Block, Heater Core and Radiator (because the water pump is the dynamic type).Our AJ-V8 cooling system is designed to run a higher flow-rate than conventional engines to compensate for an innovative splitting of the volumetric pathway. See excerpt below [From AJ-V8 Development p34, ISBN 978-1-845848-15-6]**.

The 2-pass mix and higher flow-rate enabled lower coolant volume (and quicker warm up) and also a smaller radiator core (15% smaller area than competitors) but the Evans website suggests we need a bigger Radiator.

‘For 300HP to 400HP with AC, Evan’s recommends a Radiator with 2 rows of 1inch Aluminium tube’, but our XKR Radiators (C2N4579) are 1 row of 1inch Aluminium tube...

Jaguar designed the coolant and heat rejection paths based upon specified coolant flow-rates and thermal characteristics. Evan’s is a very effective coolant but it’s diversions from the Jaguar specifications may prove inefficient in the XKR package when at full thermal load. A particular concern I have is the use of Evans in the Supercharger cooling circuit. The resultant higher running temp will reduce intercooler efficiency and throttle response.


**It's interesting that Jaguar's Patent on this went the full 20 years and they never shared the license.

 

Thank you because knowledge is power. Personally what I can say is, (and just to give an example I will use my 2.7 Diesel 2006 SE, which tend to have a bad reputation) that mine has done 155,000 miles and it still drives like new. And all that I did was to always keep to the periodic recommended maintenance schedule - always use Jaguar original engine oils and filers and if the yellow light comes up - I dig and probe into it immediately and never procrastinate.
I live in Malta and the car does only short distances and needs to go up and down slopes all the time. Not recommended, is it, for the 2.7. To compensate, I use the premium diesel which has a higher cetane number, better lubricity and includes detergents that provide for a cleaner burn and injector cleaning capability. And I shorten the periodic mileage for maintenance or time by 1/3.
Anyway, once more, thanks for the knowledge.

 

I did see Ed China once on Wheeler Dealers use waterless coolant on the rebuild of a Triumph Stag. Many of those original engines went bang due to overheating. The head gasket blew and a lot of the original Triumph engines were replaced with a Rover 3.5 V8. Shame really ..it was just down to poor maintenance.

I did consider waterless coolant for my X100 but it is 4 times the price and IMVHO not really necessary. IMVHO a good normal coolant with the right mixture of distilled water and drained and changed every 10k should work absolutely fine
Just my opinion

 

Sorry to state the bleeding obvious but have you tried a radiator flush? If it is over 50k then worth a try. Gunk will build up in the radiator and restrict coolant flow.

 

For Smitty....
The problem with the Stag was the cylinder head bolts were not at 90 degrees to the joint.
The other replacement engine was the Triumph 2.5 with carbs or injection ..it went straight in as the floor pan of the stag was a triumph 2.5. I also fitted that 2.5 into my range rover with great success.