I've managed to spring a few more leaks over the last several months, and I finally bit the bullet and got them taken care of. All three were fixed by an independent shop, however, one of them could have been done by me...but for 1 hour labor, I was ok with them taking care of it with the other two. To share the info with you all, I typed this up.

(1) First, the small one - a coolant leak on the driver side, below the throttle, there is a TEE that goes up to the throttle body on the branch, yet the runs are the heater hose assembly (octoupus) to a metal engine coolant pipe. That tee (part no. NNE3944BA) had cracked. $5 part + 1 hour labor = $95



(2) Oil Cooler Hose (part no. C2N2208) This leak was very small (maybe a quart every 3000 miles), but in my mind, a small leak can only get get worse later, and oil being critical...I had it fixed. There are four different part numbers for this, so it had to be removed to confirm before one could be ordered. Part $120 + 2 hours labor = $310




(3) Lastly, the Power Steering Cooler Hose Assembly (part no. C2N2127) The shop attempted to fix this leak over the summer, with new o-rings. It didn't hold, and this was become very messy on the garage floor. The hose was leaking at the metal fitting on the passenger side, a couple inches above the sway bar bushing and its clamp. It also dripped considerably on the lower front control arm bushing. The last power steering leak ruined the sway bar bushing and caused a clunking (which I replaced myself), and this new leak has now not only eaten the sway bar bushing again, but the second leak on the control arm bushing has now ruined it, part of it is oozed out from its location...apparently the power steering fluid has changed the rubber into silly putty...more maleable than the hard rubber on the driver side. Part $160 + 2 hours labor = $350

 

ON THAT POWER STEERING HOSE LEAK, IVE HAD EXCELLANT RESULTS CUTTING THAT FITTING OFF AND SLIPPING BACK OVER THE PIPE AND DOUBLE CLAMPING IT. iTS NOT A HIGH PRESSURE HOSE AND WORKS GREAT.

 

Not a high pressure hose, that figures. I thought it was, and that was why it couldn't be cut/clamped (and why the first fix didn't take)

Thanks brutal,wWell, for others, now they will know that it can be repaired without replacement of the entire hose n cooler assembly. Man I could have really used an extra $350 this Christmas.

 

That hose #5 in diagram, is the high pressure feed which is the one that ruptured on my car. I urge everyone to check it. The hose was ballooning at the crimped fitting coming from the engine. The replacement hoses have an improved metal ferrul that protects the hose at the crimp. I subsequently just replaced all 4 (approx $400 for all) hoses and I was happy they all have the improved design; and I shouldn't have to every worry about them again.

 

That's weird, we have nearly identical cars and I haven't had any problem with leaks. Of course, now that I say that I'll probably bust the octopus next time I start the car.

 

I don't wish this compounded list of items on anyone, but now that you've mentioned it aloud (so to speak) don't tempt fate, you better do some good deeds over the weekend...give some blankets to the shelter, donate some appliances to that one charity that keeps sending cards to your mailbox, or maybe shovel your elderly neighbors driveway and walk, then invite them over for some hot tea.

 

I think I'd rather replace the octopus.

 

BRUTAL - Since you have had good luck with cutting and splicing, I noticed a leak in the coolant tube tip of my car as it goes to the top of the engine - looks like a hard tube where the tip has broken off - can that be cut and spliced (looks like I have a 1 inch or so flex in it)? I expect that its not a high pressure fitting?

Thanks

Kal