Hi all;
I,m doing a rust repair on my 98 convertible. the frame behind the front subframe. I got new vee mounts and engine mounts. because of the cost of the front mounts, I found a good used subframe with good front mounts. Luckily, everything came off the donor car easily, and I saved all the hardware. My car came apart well also, but all 6 mounts were damaged in some way. That explains the rattle, clunk. Question is, the donor subrame came from a 2001 or newer I think, it looks different. Dimensionally it looks the same but enclosed, Was this just a minor improvement, or is it not interchangible?

 

The cost of those OEM bushes (MJA2370AJ) has gone stupid. I got the pair for ~$120 in 2024. Now around $275 each... The rear A-frame ones aren't that much different and they're only around $50 each.

You might be able to source poly ones if you wish to go that route?

There was a part # break for the crossmember from VIN A11051, which is the start of MY2001 production, with some changes either side of that break.
Both final part #s show no further changes.

Sorry I don't have a definitive. I guess you will have to do some careful side-by-side comparisons to check for fit, unless someone here knows for sure.

 

Thank you michaelh;
I have poly bushes for the suspension, i,m using stock for mounts. I figured the enclosed subframe change was to strenghten, but I have no idea what the horns on the front are for. Also,I saw the steel mounting brockets on the front of the subframe have an additional mounting fixture the older one doesn.t. The frame repair work is done, this weekend I put it back together..

 

The extra 'horns' on your subframe were introduced in 2001MY to improve occupant safety during front-end crash. In a front end collision, the subframe 'horns' interface with the bracket extensions to improve crumple zone performance. Your new brackets (MJE2541AC and MJE2540AC) had additional box section reinforcements (arrowed) designed to collapse and absorb energy. These were all part of mid-cycle updates introduced to achieve the highest rating of the European crash test.



So, in summary, you have upgraded your car for superior crash performance. Well done and hope you never need it !!

 

Thanks PKwise. I'll have to make a note of this for future ref.

The only detail the EPC notes is the inclusion of some mounting holes for the HID sensor on the final crossbeam incarnation.

So it appears you're good to go

 

All;
I completed the repair. I welded in solid patches and sealed it all. Looks not bad. The ride is smooth and utterly quiet. I was in denial about the source of the rattles and cluncks.. Also, most of the mount defects were not visible until removal. If it had not been for the need to do the rust repair I don't know when I would have fixed it all. If you have access to a lift and an engine support, the job is not that bad. It was well worth it. I totaled about $350 in parts and supplies.