XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Front Suspension - coil springs

 
  #1  
Old 06-21-2019, 10:01 AM
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Question Front Suspension - coil springs

So, I've got my new front shock mounts, new shocks, wishbone bushes, and sway bar links, and I'm watching videos on YouTube, and reading up, so it doesn't look too bad. But, I had a brainstorm and thought if I had new springs, I could assemble the strut on the bench ahead of time, and just do a swap out, swap in and save some time and effort. Besides that, my car has 107K on it and new coils might be a good idea anyway. The problem is - and this always seems to happen to me - I can't find springs anywhere, except I found some on Jagbits that are not cheap and they say they are part number JLM 20712. So I google JLM 20712, and I found a bunch of them, but they all say fits 1997- 2002 XK8s. Can anybody tell me if they know if these will fit my 2006, or if anybody has another part number that will fit my car. Thanks much !
 
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:12 AM
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Jim does your XK8 have adaptive suspension? if so you need this spring:
https://www.jagbits.com/product/JLM20706.html
 
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:57 AM
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Jim - You will need some other parts if you want to do a full swap... there is a bracket at the bottom of the spring and spacers as well (one of them has a slot that the spring fits in). It is NOT that hard to do it by pulling the full "strut" out and taking it apart... I have done it twice so far (first set of upper shock mounts were NOT the Welsh ones).

As far as the shocks, they should not be hard to find... I went with a set of H&R lowering springs on mine and they give my car a nice stance... I found the best price on TireRack of all places.
 
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Old 06-21-2019, 04:19 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I got a good deal on Bilstein shocks from RockAuto. I guess I'll go the route Chris suggested, pulling the strut out and swapping parts. I really don't want to lower my car anymore though. I was just worried that the job would take more than a day because I need the car just about every day. I'll just have to get an early start.
 
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Old 06-22-2019, 02:53 AM
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Jimmy, IMO the biggest risk for time is going to be getting the bolt out of the upper control arm. It's all going to come down to how much corrosion is there. I've never had to spend more than 40 minutes on that bolt, others have run into real headaches. IMO the more you do it the easier it'll be. This is your 1st time let me prep you.

Spray penetrating lubricant along this bolt the day before. Have your tools ready and lined up. Borrow an air compressor if you dont have one. Tools: have a 3 to 5lb.hammer handy. You're going to be hammering that bolt out. A regular old hammer is a waste of time. You REALLY need the mass of a heavier hammer.

Swinging room is tight, use a hammer with a stubby head (that extra inch of swing room will make all the difference in the world) if you can.

Remember this: the hex head of the bolt rests on a large washer. KEEP THE WASHER ALONGSIDE THE BUSHING. Unlike the bolt, the washer will not have enough clearance to follow the head of the bolt out. You'll be banging the bolt out and all of a sudden you'll realize the bolt is jammed, the washer is wedged against a protrusion along its travel and is probably starting to bend. You'll then have to reverse 15minutes of work to slide the washer back and start all over again. Yes we've all done this at least once, but you're time bound - try not to forget this one.

In addition to washers at the end of each bushing, there are two thick and two thin washers on the inside (axle side) of each inner Bush. These set castor. As the end of the bolt gets to each of these 2 areas on each side GO SLOW and capture these washers. Trust me, they're just itching to jump out and get lost somewhere. Stay ahead of it.

Have a few ratchet extensions ready. You'll need to keep banging the bolt out, but once it retracts into the bushing you'll need the extensions to keep hammering. Once or twice, I forgot why, I needed to hammer on the hex head side. I just put an open end wrench under the hex head of the bolt and hit the wrench as close to the head as I could with the 3lb hammer. It will work, mm by millimeter.

Dont forget that once that bolt is out, the hub will drop (pivot) stressing the lower ball joint. Be prepared to support it.

Reinstall:
I'd take the time to put the bolt in a 3/4 inch drill's chuck (it'll fit) take a piece of very fine sandpaper. Turn still on, bolt spins. Use a piece of very fine sandpaper to polish the outside of the bolt. Removing all that crud and corrosion will make it much easier (and way faster) to reassemble.

When trying to center and align the castor washers, have a short 1/4 inch ratchet extension handy. It'll fit in from behind and is small enough for you to move it around and set up alignment. Have a large wire tie or 2 handy for same purpose.

It's late, I think you'll have to remove the brake caliper. Easy enough to do but you'll find the bolts holding it on take forever and a day to unscrew by hand. Use the compressor and have them off in a second or two.

I just skimmed the surface focusing on stuff that will expedite the job. Feel free to come back with questions or anything. Hope this helps.

John
 
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  #6  
Old 06-22-2019, 04:25 AM
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Default Check out Stickies - Rev Sam Youtube

+1 to John Above

Thereís a Stickies thread with Rev Samís Youtube video.
As youíre time bound, you canít prepare enough.

Thereís been a few people here on the forum with recent front suspension work including Higginsí thread on his recent front end suspension refresh.

Maybe itís time for me as Iíve always had a low front end and my car is beginning to wander on the road. Iíve a flat tyre here at home, so might as well pull the wheel well liner too to see what is in store for me.
 
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  #7  
Old 07-13-2019, 10:11 AM
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If you're JUST removing the shock assembly, another forum member here has stated that removing the wheel well liner allows one to actually manuver the assembly out, without having to unbolt the wishbone assembly. Of course that does nothing for the wishbone bushings but...if time is of the essence and the shocks and shock mount are the main focus, might be worth consideration.

Just some food for thought...
 
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnken View Post
Jimmy, IMO the biggest risk for time is going to be getting the bolt out of the upper control arm. It's all going to come down to how much corrosion is there. I've never had to spend more than 40 minutes on that bolt, others have run into real headaches. IMO the more you do it the easier it'll be. This is your 1st time let me prep you.

Spray penetrating lubricant along this bolt the day before. Have your tools ready and lined up. Borrow an air compressor if you dont have one. Tools: have a 3 to 5lb.hammer handy. You're going to be hammering that bolt out. A regular old hammer is a waste of time. You REALLY need the mass of a heavier hammer.

Swinging room is tight, use a hammer with a stubby head (that extra inch of swing room will make all the difference in the world) if you can.

Remember this: the hex head of the bolt rests on a large washer. KEEP THE WASHER ALONGSIDE THE BUSHING. Unlike the bolt, the washer will not have enough clearance to follow the head of the bolt out. You'll be banging the bolt out and all of a sudden you'll realize the bolt is jammed, the washer is wedged against a protrusion along its travel and is probably starting to bend. You'll then have to reverse 15minutes of work to slide the washer back and start all over again. Yes we've all done this at least once, but you're time bound - try not to forget this one.

In addition to washers at the end of each bushing, there are two thick and two thin washers on the inside (axle side) of each inner Bush. These set castor. As the end of the bolt gets to each of these 2 areas on each side GO SLOW and capture these washers. Trust me, they're just itching to jump out and get lost somewhere. Stay ahead of it.

Have a few ratchet extensions ready. You'll need to keep banging the bolt out, but once it retracts into the bushing you'll need the extensions to keep hammering. Once or twice, I forgot why, I needed to hammer on the hex head side. I just put an open end wrench under the hex head of the bolt and hit the wrench as close to the head as I could with the 3lb hammer. It will work, mm by millimeter.

Dont forget that once that bolt is out, the hub will drop (pivot) stressing the lower ball joint. Be prepared to support it.

Reinstall:
I'd take the time to put the bolt in a 3/4 inch drill's chuck (it'll fit) take a piece of very fine sandpaper. Turn still on, bolt spins. Use a piece of very fine sandpaper to polish the outside of the bolt. Removing all that crud and corrosion will make it much easier (and way faster) to reassemble.

When trying to center and align the castor washers, have a short 1/4 inch ratchet extension handy. It'll fit in from behind and is small enough for you to move it around and set up alignment. Have a large wire tie or 2 handy for same purpose.

It's late, I think you'll have to remove the brake caliper. Easy enough to do but you'll find the bolts holding it on take forever and a day to unscrew by hand. Use the compressor and have them off in a second or two.

I just skimmed the surface focusing on stuff that will expedite the job. Feel free to come back with questions or anything. Hope this helps.

John
Excellent write up John, great information...thanks for sharing it!

May or may not be in the Rev Sam's video, not sure I haven't watched it in a while ,but...I believe he ( or maybe some one else, can't remember! lol ) suggested using two cardboard boxes taped together and positioned under where the shims would fall out once the main bolt is removed...they fall into the respective "front and rear" boxes, so you know their respective position. And, they don't get lost.
 

Last edited by dbtk44; 07-13-2019 at 10:19 AM. Reason: added info
The following 2 users liked this post by dbtk44:
JimmyL (07-14-2019), Johnken (07-13-2019)
 
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