Hey Lads,

Recently caught my fuel pulse regulator leaking in a recent round of tests and repairs to the 2003.
A search wasn't super revealing online as most posts point to this part being part of the fuel rail assembly. Not sure on other years but at least my 2003 has it as a in-line part on the driverside of the engine. It does look like it is a hard part to find too and that the part is integral to the fuel like so the entire thing needs to be changed out. I did see some posts where owners simply got rid of the part altogether but I'd like to retain it.
A ad popped up in my search coming from the tuner market for a aftermarket regulator and it seems like it would work fine as a part but now that leads to figuring out how to plumb it into that integral line or replace it with a new line. Their part comes with AN fittings so a good route to go for connections but I haven't had a chance yet to do a good review of the fittings that would need to be dealt with if I replace the entire line on my engine.
Checking to see if anyone else has done a swap out like this and if so, how did you address the fuel line fittings proprietary to the car?
Here is a link to the company and part they have available. It does have a boost port for turbochargers but it looks like that can be blocked off for static performance.
Radium Engineering Fuel Pulse Damper, In-line Kits | Never Ending Details (nedautoparts.com)

 

Ok,
Looks like I might be carving some new ground here for XK8 owners. Not the first - nor the last - I suspect.
Been doing a little additional research on the topic and the aforementioned aftermarket fuel pulse damper should be just fine. I only need to be confident that I can plumb it into the existing setup and potentially mount it. Mounting should be easy off the top of the strut tower which is in very close proximity.
The only part that is giving me some pause, is the I/O through the device using the existing line - if that is even possible. I read somewhere on the forum, and more-or-less confirmed myself that the existing line is a rubber covered, hard plastic line. The Radium part can be ordered with AN fitting but also barbed fittings as well which makes me believe that the barbed fittings are the best course of action at the moment. Let's play devil's advocate for a minute and say that I cut the line on either side of the failing regulator. My fear is that the existing line - being plastic - will not properly compress with hose clamps around the new barbed fittings and I will have leaks. Or worse, the plastic line cracks under the pressure from the clamps. Neither scenario is a good one.
Question here is - is that a possibility?
Option 2 - I remove the entire line assembly and work out a new way to get the new damper from the existing hard line below to the fuel rail using new lines?
I have attached a few photos for reference. Is that a typical fuel line disconnect I see way down there in a totally awkward place to get hands and tools? If anyone has a little experience removing this line, It would be appreciated as I use the car as a daily and wouldn't enjoy hobbling it because I didn't do a little intel run first.

 

Hi, interesting question, am curious about the solution. I am able to confirm that this are hard plastic lines with spring lock couplings.

i have failed three times in the last two years to find an alternative solution to replace oil lines (power steering, transmission and engine oil cooler) on my XJ and XK8.
In all cases i ended up using the low priced original spare parts because i found no reasonable solution for the high sophisticated couplings used in these cars. Or no one was willing to crimp new hoses onto old aluminum pipes. Or the possible connection was just not secure enough for me and i didn't want to risk a major oil leak.

good luck,
Fritz

 

Thanks Fritz.

If you look at the last photo I posted, you can clearly see the braided stainless steel line.
That is because like you, I had to come up with a solution to work around the factory transmission cooler lines. I had one that got rubbed and cut through up front and then ultimately had to cut out the old lines because of the bizarre navigation they did around the front. It was a while ago and I do not remember all the details but I was able to find the AN adapters that allowed the in/out on both ends to mate up. It's been like that for nearly 2 years so the fix was a solid one. If I can find more details on the parts I used, I will post them up.
More and more, I am finding the need to create alternative solutions for various parts on these cars as they become unavailable or prohibitively expensive. Sometimes its not possible but I certainly take the time to explore options first. I am confident that once the fuel line issue is resolved, these aftermarket pulse dampers will work for our cars.
After that, I want to come up with a permanent solution for the incredibly shitting, plastic thermostat housings on our engines. I am already on my second one thanks to the surge tank nipple on the top. I have absolutely no idea why that nipple is so fragile but there are plenty of options to make it not that way. Hope what I did on my cooler lines helps you.

 

Hi, looks like my pressure of suffering wasn't high enough to really find an alternative. That may change if prices continue to rise or the parts are really no longer available. That could be come sooner if you look at the strategy decision made by JLR's ceo.

Whenever you have found a good solution you should publish it here. Could helps to keep the vehicles we like on the road.

Cheers,
Fritz

 

Pressing on with the Radium fuel pulse dampener. Ordered one in, with the barbed fittings and should have it by Monday.
Going to also order in some high pressure, braided fuel line to replace the original hard plastic line that is currently there but now need to source the coupler for the line on both ends to the end and metal fuel line.
I am assuming that the coupler is a Ford part? Meaning I should be able to get it loose with the Ford style fuel line release tools?
I found a pic online that looks very similar to the one on our engines but won't know for certain until I finally take it all apart.
Onward -

 

Hey all,

Wanted to post a quick update here on this as I haven't addressed it just yet.
Got busy with other things but I have circled back now to finishing up this project.

When I ordered the Radium fuel pulse damper, I ordered it with barbed fittings in the thought that I would secure everything with clamps. I have since changed my mind on that and now I am going with AN fittings instead. Lucky for me that the damper allows these to be swapped out so that wasn't any big deal.
I also ordered braided stainless fuel line and based on some measurements, decided that 6AN sized fittings will do the trick. Pic below of the parts I ordered from Amazon.
Since the damper allows for it, I also threw in a fuel pressure gauge for absolutely no reason lol.

I will finish my little aluminum mounting plate today for the damper and then I just have a couple of extra bits to pick up.
The first being the Ford fuel line fitting to 6AN adapter. No problem there and it is the .551 end
The one I am having issues with is the lower connector on the line and I am hoping someone can help.
I picked up a set of fuel line disconnect tools which worked perfectly on the fuel rail fitting, but they are not working on that lower fitting so far.
It's a tight space to work and I am not 100% sure between two sizes of the release tools. Also, not sure if it is the same release tools needed as the upper fitting?
Anyone else removed this particular line and could help me make sure I get it off without damaging it? Would be appreciated.
Pic of the fitting is upstairs in the original post.

Most parts will arrive this week so I will update the thread with any new intel I have then.

 

The photo in post #6 is a Spring Lock Coupling Male. The one my 2003 XK8 is 5/16 and same as on the early Ford Mustangs. I think the Red color plastic tool was one I released it with. The connection at the Cowl or Bulkhead is possibly a Female Spring Lock. There are AN fittings with this coupling available at various suppliers. Google it to check on selection. The Nylon fuel line use is a bear if it is retained due to its flexibility and requiring limited heat to slip over barbs. You have the best solution using AN hose & fittings. I used the Male Spring Lock from E-Bay to fab a air pressure hose to test of leaks when replacing the dampers on the rail assemblies. Let us know how how this works out.

 

Thank you for the intel!
Yes, I had found the proper 6-AN to Ford coupler that attaches the line to the fuel rail. The lower coupler to the incoming hard line is the one I am still trying to source out so I will try to get it unlocked again today. The fuel rail fitting came off without any issue but that lower connector is being a bear.

Here is the fuel rail 6-AN to Ford .551" connector that I sourced online

 

note: liquid filled gauges must be read when cold. When they get hot in the under hood environment they will no longer display anything close to accuracy. Most quality gauges will mention this in the instructions.


Z

 

Yeah, that makes sense due to the fluid in the gauge losing viscosity.
As mentioned, it was only because the port already exists on my new FPD and the gauge itself was $12.00
I routinely monitor such things using my JLR software anyway - for accuracy

 

Ok,

Today's update from yesterday's work.
Using my 5.00 set of plastic Ford fuel line removal tools, I successfully got the FPD assembly off the car.
It is tight space to get to the lower fitting and it is slightly different than the fitting on the fuel rail. Once I had the tool firmly in place on the lower fitting, I used a piece of steel bar to press down on the solid fuel line below and then pulled up on the line itself. Couldn't get anything onto the fitting itself to pull it upward so had to take the chance and pull from the line. It worked and it popped off without damaged the existing line.
I went ahead and fabbed a 90-degree bracket to hold the new FPD and mounted it to one of the shock tower threaded rods that come through into the engine bay.
Going to monitor vibration as I have mounted it solidly and if it looks like it might be an issue, I will refit it with a rubber bushing to absorb some of that.
Some of the -6AN fittings arrive today with the others arriving by weeks end. The fittings you see on the FPD in the photo are the barbed fittings I ordered it with, but these are being swapped to -6AN fittings.
The smaller hard line fitting you see in the photos doesn't seem to be an available part as a -6AN to quick disconnect part exactly. I did find an alternative adapter that I believe accomplishes the same goal and it is on order as well. Another couple of days and I will have the complete assembly on the car and can check it for leaks and operation.
Will post the results

The lower fuel fitting. Used the 3/8" tool to remove

The hard line itself after the fitting was removed

The fuel rail fitting. This was very easy to remove with the 5/8" fitting removal tool.

The fuel rail with line removed

The 5.00 plastic tool kit from Harbor Freight

New FPD in position with the aluminum bracket I fab'd

 

Oh forgot to add a couple of photos of the replacement fitting for the lower line connection.

 

Mission accomplished.
I think it looks good and it worked out perfectly. Car runs great and I don't have to worry about drippy fuel in the mornings.
Total cost did not exceed $200.00 USD which I think is a decent value for the result

You may notice the change in orientation of the damper? I positioned it this way to allow for a longer fuel line from the damper to the fuel rail.
Since the engine has the allowance for movement, I did not want to see any pressure on the lines as the motor moved around. This gave me a few more inches of fuel line and also a gentler bend radius