Fuel Pump Access
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 32
Likes: 11
From: Dana Point, Calif
Very clean repair! My solution was a square access hole cut with a hand grinder, filed sharp edges and covered with a screwed on metal plate. Replaced both pumps on my XKR, they feed the same line. Relays in boot can be shorted to test pump operation, when both fail..no go. Note: grinder cutting showers sparks so remove rear seat and shield exposed surfaces with cardboard.
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,457
Likes: 1,816
From: New Jersey USA
This string is a good reminder. I want to just cut the hole in anticipation of the day my pump will go. I am amazed amazed that the members who found mechanism to replace the pump for $120. I assure you they are not from around here ;-). I was going to ask for specific measurements but the photos give enough to use dead reckoning.
Anyone know how thick the sheet metal is ? I ask as is plan the method of attack. I do have a small nibbler, it is probably best if if just plan to use an 8.5 inch hole saw attachment for my drill.
Anyone know how thick the sheet metal is ? I ask as is plan the method of attack. I do have a small nibbler, it is probably best if if just plan to use an 8.5 inch hole saw attachment for my drill.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 748
Likes: 308
From: Near Charlotte, NC
~18 ga.(~0.048") after removing sound proofing with heat gun and chisel. After having used the nibbler once, I am much higher on the learning curve now.(ie: template, removing sound proofing, indexing the nibbler/ nibbling exit points,flattening the formed reinforcement @ 4 places, and control and cleanup of many fine crescent slugs above and below the shelf.}
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Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 3,708
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From: on the road in NE Oklahoma
admittedly this is nit-picking, but the first generation Mustangs did not have a body that bolted to a frame, sporty or otherwise. It was a unibody car with bolt on front fenders and bolt on hood. The rest of the body was welded onto the frame rails and floor pan. No separate frame.
There are few interchangeable chassis parts between the Falcon and the Mustang. Engine and driveline parts, yes, chassis parts , no.
One question, How much time is saved by drilling an access hole to reveal the fuel pump(s) vs. just taking the tank off. I do understand the OP was going to be doing some experimenting, and might be trying different fuel pumps, etc. But for a straightforward fuel pump replacement, how much time is saved by this hack ?
Z
Last edited by zray; Mar 6, 2018 at 11:35 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: California United States
An option for some wanting to have easy access to pump and all its belongings for testing and experimenting . I have a 2004 XKR convert that has been giving me some fuel pressure problems. I did not want to shell out $ 750 for the module and have to remove the tank to replace it. After reading many post about repeated new part failure and short life I choose a different approach. I plan on trying some aftermarket pumps / fuel pressure regulator if needed. First I purchased a 8 1/4" hole saw and arbor part# 106200 and 106202 from automationdirect.com for about $ 55.00. I rented a right angle heavy duty 1/2" drill from Home Depot for $ 20.00 for 4 hrs. I removed the carpet that covers the back shelf area on top of the tank to access sheet metal and made measurement's and markings for 1/4" pilot hole. Through the trunk I pulled down back wall carpet and removed top 3 bolts holding steel panel and pulled it down slightly and slid in a piece of aluminum sheet as a safety when drilling. The original arbor bit was removed and replaced with a 1/4" drill blank extending out 3/8" past hole saw teeth.Next I drilled a pilot and then cut the 8 1/4" hole in the sheet metal , all of about 55 seconds. I cleaned and deburred the sharp edge and vacuumed the area clean. You can leave the hole open ,the carpet is stiff enough not to sag or close up with original plug and use aluminum duct tape or make a complete new cover. Attached are some pics. Steve
Last edited by multijag; May 10, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 39
From: Lower Catskill Mtns
Hello, this procedure is for a 1997-2006 XK8 or XKR. Don't know the setup on a XJ8. ! !
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 143
Likes: 30
From: Ellijay, Georgia
I too have a 2001 convertible and had to replace the pump a few years ago. Remove the back seat for a bit more room and cut through the shelf (for want of a better word) where the retracted top would sit. It goes without saying all this has to be done with the top up which makes for a cramped work area. Be sure to protect the interior of the top from any sparks.
When everything is back up and running, ensure that the removed section of metal is secured in place by some method as that area acts as a firewall.
When everything is back up and running, ensure that the removed section of metal is secured in place by some method as that area acts as a firewall.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 230
Likes: 42
From: Knoxville, TN
Wow great write up. I have a 2002 XKR and I thought I head that one of the pumps could be dead and you not really know it? So my question is is there a good way to test and see if one pump is inactive? I though there was a thread on it at one point but couldn't find it.
Thank you,
Rob
Thank you,
Rob
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From: Jersey, Channel Islands
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...82/#post632824
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From: New Jersey
By the time you remove the rear seat, cut a hole, make a cover for the hole, and reinstall the rear seat (don't forget the chance that you might run into unforeseen issues along the way, what are you really saving in time or work compared to removing the fuel tank? If you cut the hole for access you are replacing the fuel pump with horrible access and sight angles. I just don't see the benefit. I removed the tank and replaced the pump with the tank on the garage floor where I could see perfectly into the tank with all the access I could want. I could easily see everything I was doing so that when I put the tank back into the car I had no worries.
I guess it's a matter of preference but I prefer working this way.
I guess it's a matter of preference but I prefer working this way.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 230
Likes: 42
From: Knoxville, TN
I just completed the procedure as detailed by stevenx605 in his original post, Thank you Steven! I would only add that for better access, I removed the rear seat and the metal cross member. I used a magnetic work light inside the tank to see the layout inside. The 2002 XKR has two fuel pumps, I replaced those with Delphi units $174 for the pair sourced on eBay, I also replaced the fuel pump strainers, $28 for the pair, and replaced the fuel pump tank seal $37. My reason for the repair was the fuel sender unit, which registered empty at any level below 3/4 full so I replaced that with a Jaguar part also from eBay $165 or Partsgeek.com. I purchased a piece of flat alloy 1"x1/8" from my local hardware store and pop riveted two lengths approximately 10" to the original steel that was removed using the hole saw and used self tapping screws to hold it in place over the hole leaving a nice access panel to replace the pumps after the next 160,000 miles! The carpet covers the area well and you would never know that the work had been done. In all I recon that the job took me 2 &1/2 hours and cost me about $475 including the hole saw purchase and the right angle drill rental, my local Jaguar specialist quoted me $1200 plus parts for the job and said he would need the car for three days as he would have to remove the tank.
Just to revive this thread and add a couple of what I believe would be helpful details, I did this repair on my XKR convertible this past weekend, and it was a very straightforward job thanks to this post. The lifesaver in my case was removing the rear seat and metal cross member, as indicated above, which allowed much better sight down into the tank. A couple of other useful tips that I did not find in any thread is that the bolt size holding the fuel pumps down is 6mm, and the size to remove the pump hose clamps is 5mm. I used a 6mm socket for the pump bolts and a 5mm open ended ratchet wrench for the clamps. The sight angle for the front most pump was a bit tight, but I was able to do it without difficulty with a good light strap to my head. Anyway com it's nice to have peace of mind now knowing that I have two new fuel pumps and an access hole in case that area needs to be accessed again. Personally, I was on the side of not minding a hole in my rear shelf for ease of repair currently and if needed in the future.
Rob
Rob
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 221
Likes: 95
From: Northern CA Santa Cruz
Just to revive this thread and add a couple of what I believe would be helpful details, I did this repair on my XKR convertible this past weekend, and it was a very straightforward job thanks to this post. The lifesaver in my case was removing the rear seat and metal cross member, as indicated above, which allowed much better sight down into the tank. A couple of other useful tips that I did not find in any thread is that the bolt size holding the fuel pumps down is 6mm, and the size to remove the pump hose clamps is 5mm. I used a 6mm socket for the pump bolts and a 5mm open ended ratchet wrench for the clamps. The sight angle for the front most pump was a bit tight, but I was able to do it without difficulty with a good light strap to my head. Anyway com it's nice to have peace of mind now knowing that I have two new fuel pumps and an access hole in case that area needs to be accessed again. Personally, I was on the side of not minding a hole in my rear shelf for ease of repair currently and if needed in the future.
Rob
Rob
Rob
Rob
Rob, were you able to replace both pumps going through the one access hole?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 230
Likes: 42
From: Knoxville, TN
Exact hole location
Hi a brilliant report,
However please can you describe exactly where the hole should be drilled.. Is behind the seat or behind the bulk head?
Is in in the centre etc.. are there any dimensions please
Sorry to be so vague, need a further out photo if you happend to have taken one...
Many thanks
However please can you describe exactly where the hole should be drilled.. Is behind the seat or behind the bulk head?
Is in in the centre etc.. are there any dimensions please
Sorry to be so vague, need a further out photo if you happend to have taken one...
Many thanks
An option for some wanting to have easy access to pump and all its belongings for testing and experimenting . I have a 2004 XKR convert that has been giving me some fuel pressure problems. I did not want to shell out $ 750 for the module and have to remove the tank to replace it. After reading many post about repeated new part failure and short life I choose a different approach. I plan on trying some aftermarket pumps / fuel pressure regulator if needed. First I purchased a 8 1/4" hole saw and arbor part# 106200 and 106202 from automationdirect.com for about $ 55.00. I rented a right angle heavy duty 1/2" drill from Home Depot for $ 20.00 for 4 hrs. I removed the carpet that covers the back shelf area on top of the tank to access sheet metal and made measurement's and markings for 1/4" pilot hole. Through the trunk I pulled down back wall carpet and removed top 3 bolts holding steel panel and pulled it down slightly and slid in a piece of aluminum sheet as a safety when drilling. The original arbor bit was removed and replaced with a 1/4" drill blank extending out 3/8" past hole saw teeth.Next I drilled a pilot and then cut the 8 1/4" hole in the sheet metal , all of about 55 seconds. I cleaned and deburred the sharp edge and vacuumed the area clean. You can leave the hole open ,the carpet is stiff enough not to sag or close up with original plug and use aluminum duct tape or make a complete new cover. Attached are some pics. Steve
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 1,015
From: Spain
Hi a brilliant report,
However please can you describe exactly where the hole should be drilled.. Is behind the seat or behind the bulk head?
Is in in the centre etc.. are there any dimensions please
Sorry to be so vague, need a further out photo if you happend to have taken one...
Many thanks
However please can you describe exactly where the hole should be drilled.. Is behind the seat or behind the bulk head?
Is in in the centre etc.. are there any dimensions please
Sorry to be so vague, need a further out photo if you happend to have taken one...
Many thanks
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sanchius
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
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Sep 4, 2019 08:51 AM
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