1998 XK8 convt. Been extreme cold and snowing so hadn't driven for a couple weeks. I charged battery, started right up, let idle for a few minutes. Turned it off and it wouldn't re-start. Appears not getting fuel. Checked voltage ok to fuel pump so appears I need new fuel pump.

Can someone recommend fuel pump brand and supplier? Also any appreciate any tips on replacing fuel pump.thanks

 

Have you checked for actual fuel pressure? There is a shrader valve on the rail. With caution and a rag, you can push the center pin to check. A gauge is obviously better...

If you turn the ignition on (engine off), you should hear the pump go for a bit, in a quiet environment.

If you let it idle for a very short time, you might have flooding or bore wash. You might want to try to start it again with the gas pedal to the floor. This shuts the injection of fuel and might help vent the excess fuel. If it does not work, you might need to pull a few spark plugs and drop a bit of oil to restore the compression. If there is bore wash, the starter does not encounter compression and the engine spins faster, so you should hear the difference.

My understanding is that the early fuel pump is not super expensive, but the lines are a pain to get to. Folks drop the tank to do it. I mean you probably have to exhaust other possibilities before tackling this.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

I'm guessing you cannot hear pump? Other possible checks... Clogged fuel filter? Excess water in tank frozen in line?? U mentioned extreme cold, parked outside? I do agree, frozen lines these days less of a problem due to ethanol. Which did create new sludge problems. Hope you find a solution. Rich

 

1. do not hear fuel pump running, 2. no fuel at Shrader valve, 3. it kicked a little when I sprayed starting fluid in air cleaner hose. Since I see voltage at the fuel pump connector, I think it points to dead fuel pump. They don't seem expensive, but there are 6 or 7 choices. ie. Denso, Delphie, Airtex, etc. Not sure which is best choice.

 

Recommend swapping the pump relay as it may have pitted ( inside ) power contacts not allowing enough current to run the pump .

Put your finger on the relay and feel for it to click , there is a fuse for the relay control and a fuse for the power passing through to the pump

Also the fuel filter as a otherwise scheduled item

Bore wash condition is also a possibility as you go through this anomaly .

 

Thanks, I had previously tried swapping relays. I did put voltage meter on the connector wires leading to fuel pump, and I'm getting voltage to the pump when initially turning key, so I assume circuit is good to the pump.

The new replacement fuel pumps seem to have different specs. A Delphi lists 32 gph at 44 psi, another one is 42 gph at 45 psi. A Spectra has max flo 66.5 and max press 123.3. Not sure I understand if these make a difference, and which I should get.

A little off subject, but is it just me or does anyone else think its kind of crazy drop an electric motor with wires and current into a tank of gasoline?

 

There is a fuse between the relay and the pump connector and not the usual way before

Electricity in the tank is common dependent on the design , think TWA Fight 800 . I worked on the left wing wiring just before it got shot down .

The pump will charge the fuel rail for 3 - 5 seconds and turn back off . It will turn back on after the ECU sees engine rotation by the Crankshaft sensor .

 

Just to rule it out, be sure to reset the inertia switch.

 

Welsh Enterprises is a great aftermarket source for a quality pump at a reasonable price: Welsh Enterprises, Inc - Jaguar XK8 / XKR (97-06) Fuel/Emissions Fuel Tank, Fuel Delivery & Return Parts - Fuel Pump - XJ6 XJS XK8

The Airtex does not have a stop on the hose connector tube, so hoses have been known to blow off in the tank. I would stay away from that one.

You will also find a small block box (about 1" square) wired into the pump leads in the tank. This is an electrical noise filter, probably mostly to keep the pump from generating noise in the radio. Make sure it has continuity before drop in the new pump and closing everything up. These filters sometime blow open when the pump fails.

If you have to replace it I think they are over $100. A number of members have just bypassed it with a wire and said they never had any problems with the radio. YMMV.

 

I changed mine a few weeks ago. Most of the aftermarket pumps have to be adapted to fit into the bracket, which was just way to hokey for my tastes (a zip tie, seriously??). There is also an adapter for the existing wiring to the new plug on the pump. I went with a URO part since it is a direct replacement. I'm not sure of the output, I'll have to give that a test.

 

You can try putting a jumper wire in place of the relay to pins 3 & 5, see if you get any fuel pressure at rail. Also, if you put your hand on the tank, you should feel the pump come on.


I had to replace mine about 2 years ago - XJ40, but similar set up. Mine was a Wahlbro, and original. Went with same brand as I was able to source locally.


As for your question about the differences - just means they put out more volume, not more pressure. High power output applications would need higher volume pumps, hence why the Supercharged models ran 2 pumps.


Also - word of advice. When you remove the EVAP flange on top of the tank, have a look at the link lead from that to the pump, these tend to get burnt from the pump pulling more amps trying to operate. It'd be wise that if you see any burn marks or evidence the pins were getting hot, I'd replace this link lead, and you may need to replace EVAP flange as well. Inspect EVAP flange gasket too. When connecting the link lead for fuel pump, make sure you put it back in correct slot.

 

I got the fuel pump out and it checks bad. Took me about 5 hours with car on jack stands, mostly siphoning out gas and getting fuel lines apart. Job was about as expected based on the misery others described on this forum.

Now the problem is the link lead (wire jumper with white plastic box) has burned connecter where it connects to pump. I dont see this part readily available and what are my options? Im not too excited about splicing wires that are in fuel tank... can i eliminate this, but not sure if new pump has connector that will work without the link lead. Thanks

 

I believe the box is a electrical noise suppressor found on later years or a TSB

 

You can find a blow up of the fuel tank and components at this link: https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/Eng...RUNNING%20LOSS
Attached is the screen clip from the page.

You can download the complete catalog in PDF from their web site

 

Replaced fuel pump, link lead, and fuel filter. Very satisfying to be back on road, running like new, and saved probably around a grand in labor! Greatly appreciate all information, or I wouldnt have known where to begin or what to expect. Did this on jack stands, so fuel-line disconnect was extremely tricky part.The helpful tip to tie string to disconnect tool helped alot, and I used long screwdriver, stick, and jammed my hand in small space to remove/replace the lines.

The pump was reasonable at $70.00 with lifetime warranty. On the other hand, the lead link was also $70.00, and was just 2 wires and connectors, and it didnt even have the noise suppressor.

Be extra cautious working with the gasoline and the sharp edges around the fuel tank. Thanks again for everyone who helped me out.

 

XK8 fuel pump not working fuse ok relay ok no power to fuse what can the fault be

 

download wiring diagram at jagrepair.com see where fuse goes test other end and in between with multimeter or test lamp until you find the fault

 

Have you checked the crash sensor/fuel cutoff under the fascia? It may need a reset.

 

What is the car's MY?
The fuelling mechanism changed on the 4.2L.

 

When I replaced my fuel pump I first purchased a cheap one, I forget where, that had bare wires hanging out of it. I threw it in the trash, one of my best decisions of all time.
I purchased another fuel pump from NAPA for about a hundred dollars and it came with a small wire harness which made it plug and play. I took no chances with this, removing the tank and replacing the pump with the tank on cardboard on the garage floor where I could really see what I was doing and it all turned out well.
I figured that I don't want to do this job twice and to this day I'm glad I did what I did.