Fuse 14, Drivers side Facia Fuse box keeps blowing
As stated in the title fuse 14 (10 amp) in the drivers side facia fuse box (right hand side UK) keeps blowing and brings up a ding noise and the message that alternates between "electrical fault and suspension fault". I replace the fuse and it's OK for a couple of days then blows again. According to the fuse diagram this fuse covers Inst Pack, CATS warning and Cruise Control on/off. I'm assuming an intermittent shorts or faulty component but don't know where to start. Has anyone had this and if so can they point me in any direction towards solving the issue?
What car/year do you have? Maybe someone else has experienced the same thing.
According to my wiring diagram (2001) that fuse supplies 7 different circuits - you will need to look at your wiring diagram and check each circuit out in turn unfortunately. Start out by making a list of everything that is supplied by that fuse and see which ones you can disconnect.
According to my wiring diagram (2001) that fuse supplies 7 different circuits - you will need to look at your wiring diagram and check each circuit out in turn unfortunately. Start out by making a list of everything that is supplied by that fuse and see which ones you can disconnect.
What car/year do you have? Maybe someone else has experienced the same thing.
According to my wiring diagram (2001) that fuse supplies 7 different circuits - you will need to look at your wiring diagram and check each circuit out in turn unfortunately. Start out by making a list of everything that is supplied by that fuse and see which ones you can disconnect.
According to my wiring diagram (2001) that fuse supplies 7 different circuits - you will need to look at your wiring diagram and check each circuit out in turn unfortunately. Start out by making a list of everything that is supplied by that fuse and see which ones you can disconnect.
So you have the same car as me - that makes it easier.
Get the electrical guide here - XK 2001 is the one you want:-
http:/jagrepair.com/JaguarXK8ElectricalOBDIIcodes.htm
Figure 01.4 shows the fuse and what it supplies. Each branch shows the circuit number (in the circle) and the page you will find it.
If I were you I would start by listing all the circuits on a piece of paper and then visually inspecting each one for damage.
Take your time to read the electrical guide as all the symbols are explained at the start.
Get the electrical guide here - XK 2001 is the one you want:-
http:/jagrepair.com/JaguarXK8ElectricalOBDIIcodes.htm
Figure 01.4 shows the fuse and what it supplies. Each branch shows the circuit number (in the circle) and the page you will find it.
If I were you I would start by listing all the circuits on a piece of paper and then visually inspecting each one for damage.
Take your time to read the electrical guide as all the symbols are explained at the start.
I think this is the fuse you are looking for from page 01.4:-

You can see there all the circuits it supplies, including the first one 15 II on page 04.2. This is the ignition switched supply for the cruise control on/off switch. As good a place as any to start looking given your error message.

You can see there all the circuits it supplies, including the first one 15 II on page 04.2. This is the ignition switched supply for the cruise control on/off switch. As good a place as any to start looking given your error message.
Wiggle Test .
As an auto electrician of 40 years I can say you need to perform a wiggle test.
Take an old fuse and split off all the plastic ...solder a wire to each blade and put the ends to a 60 w headlamp bulb.
It will not work with a lower wattage.
Insert where the blowing fuse was.
The bulb may glow dull red but when it shorts it will come on full brightness.
Fit and start pulling and pushing the harness etc wiggle it about or just drive till it comes on and note the circumstances.
If you can pull and push the harness to make it flash you have found your problem.
Probably chafing on chassis or a trapped wire .
As an auto electrician of 40 years I can say you need to perform a wiggle test.
Take an old fuse and split off all the plastic ...solder a wire to each blade and put the ends to a 60 w headlamp bulb.
It will not work with a lower wattage.
Insert where the blowing fuse was.
The bulb may glow dull red but when it shorts it will come on full brightness.
Fit and start pulling and pushing the harness etc wiggle it about or just drive till it comes on and note the circumstances.
If you can pull and push the harness to make it flash you have found your problem.
Probably chafing on chassis or a trapped wire .
Last edited by Pistnbroke; Apr 25, 2025 at 01:27 AM.
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Wiggle Test .
As an auto electrician of 40 years I can say you need to perform a wiggle test.
Take an old fuse and split off all the plastic ...solder a wire to each blade and put the ends to a 60 w headlamp bulb.
It will not work with a lower wattage.
Insert where the blowing fuse was.
The bulb may glow dull red but when it shorts it will come on full brightness.
Fit and start pulling and pushing the harness etc wiggle it about or just drive till it comes on and note the circumstances.
If you can pull and push the harness to make it flash you have found your problem.
Probably chafing on chassis or a trapped wire .
As an auto electrician of 40 years I can say you need to perform a wiggle test.
Take an old fuse and split off all the plastic ...solder a wire to each blade and put the ends to a 60 w headlamp bulb.
It will not work with a lower wattage.
Insert where the blowing fuse was.
The bulb may glow dull red but when it shorts it will come on full brightness.
Fit and start pulling and pushing the harness etc wiggle it about or just drive till it comes on and note the circumstances.
If you can pull and push the harness to make it flash you have found your problem.
Probably chafing on chassis or a trapped wire .
Personally I use 120w by using a double filament bulb and I would take the panel off below the steering wheel and check in there .
Last edited by Pistnbroke; Apr 25, 2025 at 03:42 AM.
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