Gen III throttle body failure?
#1
10-01-2010, 06:00 PM
Gen III throttle body failure?
Okay so the throttle position sensor is acting up and putting the car into "Fail Safe Mode". Has anyone else heard of failures on the last iteration of the throttle bodies? I am painfully aware of the Gen II (the first fly-by-wire) issues but thought the Gen IIIs were re-engineered to avoid this issue - guess not. From what I have heard this failure may be common at approx. 100K miles, but I am thinking 100K is not reached by too many.
#2
10-01-2010, 07:51 PM
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#3
10-02-2010, 12:44 AM
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#5
10-02-2010, 08:26 AM
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#7
10-02-2010, 12:08 PM
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#9
10-08-2010, 09:29 AM
Update
Well since it was in the shop and is near 100K miles I went ahead and asked to have the trans serviced and the spark plugs changed. It definitely needs a new the throttle body, I saw the code and noted all the elctrical connections are different on the 4.2 but have forgotten all of that because of a little storm we had here.
Unfortunately my car was pelted with hail while at the shop; the owner and his team did everything they could to save as many cars as possible, but that is what insurance is for, right?
Pics are below, its hard to tell unless you look closely, but it looks like a new bonnet, deck lid and windshield are in order. And then there is the indignity of the corvette parking sign. (I guess if it was "plastic fantastic" I'd only need a windshield)
Official claims adjustment is due on Monday. - Mr.Texas Dan how is your hail experienced ride? I never saw any updates.
Unfortunately my car was pelted with hail while at the shop; the owner and his team did everything they could to save as many cars as possible, but that is what insurance is for, right?
Pics are below, its hard to tell unless you look closely, but it looks like a new bonnet, deck lid and windshield are in order. And then there is the indignity of the corvette parking sign. (I guess if it was "plastic fantastic" I'd only need a windshield) Official claims adjustment is due on Monday. - Mr.Texas Dan how is your hail experienced ride? I never saw any updates.
Last edited by MarcB; 10-08-2010 at 09:35 AM.
#10
10-08-2010, 10:23 AM
Veteran member
Ouch, that is tough news!
I tell you what, before going full out body panel replacement, let a paintless dent removal outfit try their magic on the non-creased dents and dings. I've had 5 big dings (by inconsiderate owner's doors) heavy handed mechanics leaning on the fender, and one forgotten screwdriver left atop the ABS module (bulging UP into the bonnet) all were fixed w/o any signs it was previously damaged.
I only say this because older paint is SOOOO difficult to match, and if you're an extremely critical person like me, I'd notice. And, new body parts and repaint are criteria that will hurt resale on the car, especially if you try to trade it into a dealer, they throw that 'paint gauge' data and unmatching finish (you know, orange peel vs smooth?) at you. Everyone has told me not to repaint my bumper or hood just to fix a couple chips, as it'll lower my car's value more than leaving them.
I tell you what, before going full out body panel replacement, let a paintless dent removal outfit try their magic on the non-creased dents and dings. I've had 5 big dings (by inconsiderate owner's doors) heavy handed mechanics leaning on the fender, and one forgotten screwdriver left atop the ABS module (bulging UP into the bonnet) all were fixed w/o any signs it was previously damaged.
I only say this because older paint is SOOOO difficult to match, and if you're an extremely critical person like me, I'd notice. And, new body parts and repaint are criteria that will hurt resale on the car, especially if you try to trade it into a dealer, they throw that 'paint gauge' data and unmatching finish (you know, orange peel vs smooth?) at you. Everyone has told me not to repaint my bumper or hood just to fix a couple chips, as it'll lower my car's value more than leaving them.
#11
10-08-2010, 10:25 AM
Veteran Member
It looks like our cars could be related (at least appearance wise). Anyway, sorry to hear about your hail misfortune. I am still curious as to the particulars of why you need a new throttle body. Is it really just the throttle position sensor that went wacky and, if so, isn't it possible to just replace/fix the TPS or do you have to buy the whole thing as an assembly? This is like needing to buy a whole engine due to a bad sparkplug--asinine.
Doug
Doug
#12
10-08-2010, 10:50 AM
It appears the TPS is still, like the previous TPS, only available as a complete assembly with the throttle body (asinine is right). Fortunately our gen throttle body is only $840.00 compared to the $1,900.00-2,100.00 price of the earlier ones. FYI: When I have a chance I will get the proper error code for your reference.
Last edited by MarcB; 10-08-2010 at 11:23 AM.
#13
10-08-2010, 10:58 AM
Ouch, that is tough news!
I tell you what, before going full out body panel replacement, let a paintless dent removal outfit try their magic on the non-creased dents and dings. I've had 5 big dings (by inconsiderate owner's doors) heavy handed mechanics leaning on the fender, and one forgotten screwdriver left atop the ABS module (bulging UP into the bonnet) all were fixed w/o any signs it was previously damaged.
I only say this because older paint is SOOOO difficult to match, and if you're an extremely critical person like me, I'd notice. And, new body parts and repaint are criteria that will hurt resale on the car, especially if you try to trade it into a dealer, they throw that 'paint gauge' data and unmatching finish (you know, orange peel vs smooth?) at you. Everyone has told me not to repaint my bumper or hood just to fix a couple chips, as it'll lower my car's value more than leaving them.
I tell you what, before going full out body panel replacement, let a paintless dent removal outfit try their magic on the non-creased dents and dings. I've had 5 big dings (by inconsiderate owner's doors) heavy handed mechanics leaning on the fender, and one forgotten screwdriver left atop the ABS module (bulging UP into the bonnet) all were fixed w/o any signs it was previously damaged.
I only say this because older paint is SOOOO difficult to match, and if you're an extremely critical person like me, I'd notice. And, new body parts and repaint are criteria that will hurt resale on the car, especially if you try to trade it into a dealer, they throw that 'paint gauge' data and unmatching finish (you know, orange peel vs smooth?) at you. Everyone has told me not to repaint my bumper or hood just to fix a couple chips, as it'll lower my car's value more than leaving them.
#14
10-08-2010, 01:48 PM
Veteran Member
It appears the TPS is still, like the previous TPS, only available as a complete assembly with the throttle body (asinine is right). Fortunately our gen throttle body is only $840.00 compared to the $1,900.00-2,100.00 price of the earlier ones. FYI: When I have a chance I will get the proper error code for your reference.
Doug
#15
10-08-2010, 03:43 PM
Veteran Member
If it were me I would try applying a cleaner to the contacts and check them for adjustment for a tight fit. I applied Di-Electric on all my contacts others may not agree the choice is yours then see what takes place. When I worked on my S-Type I found that the TB plugs were clean and grease was already applied on connectors. You have nothing to lose.
As for the body and paint that had to be a painful moment when you saw it.
As for the body and paint that had to be a painful moment when you saw it.
#16
10-08-2010, 04:43 PM
Veteran Member
If it were me I would try applying a cleaner to the contacts and check them for adjustment for a tight fit. I applied Di-Electric on all my contacts others may not agree the choice is yours then see what takes place. When I worked on my S-Type I found that the TB plugs were clean and grease was already applied on connectors. You have nothing to lose.
As for the body and paint that had to be a painful moment when you saw it.
As for the body and paint that had to be a painful moment when you saw it.
You may want to check that as dielectric grease is meant to be non-conductive.
Doug
#17
10-08-2010, 05:01 PM
Veteran Member
Yes Doug one would think that; however, if you read the application of the Di-Electric you will see that it is designated for this type of application. http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?PN=02083&S=Y
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?PN=02085&S=Y
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?PN=02085&S=Y
#18
10-08-2010, 05:25 PM
Veteran Member
I think the use inferred by that product's website might be a bit misleading. Once a connection is made, dielectric products are great from sealing the assemblage from environmental conditions outside and also to protect against current migrating outward from the connection. Here is a definition I found:
Doug
Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.
A perfect example was the common recommendation to use dielectric grease on the inside of sparkplug wire boots. This "sealed" against both dirt/liquid getting in and from sparks "escaping". This is consistent with the description from the Permatex site for their Dielectric Tune-up Grease:Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. Extends the life of bulb sockets. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connection. Also prevents spark plugs from fusing to boots. Required for modern high energy ignition systems.
So my understanding is that the grease was never intended to go on the connectors themselves. For dealing with the connectors, there are all kinds of sprays available to promote/improve conductivity, such as the Deoxit line of products.Doug
#19
10-08-2010, 06:01 PM
Veteran Member
Sorry Doug I do not agree with you on this subject. I have been using it for years and it had never let me down. I have been in the electrical end from 1966 to date. Today we use it on high and low voltage connections up to and including 500kv. It eliminates the corrosion and oxidation and prevents seizing of the devices. I am telling you first hand it works!
#20
10-09-2010, 11:28 AM
Veteran Member
Gus-are you quite sure that the lubricant you are using is dielectric? Dielectrics are specifically defined as non-conducting but it is possible that the product you are using is NOT dielectric. I glanced through the Nye Lubricants verbiage and all they seem to say that their "grease" or lubricant will improve conductivity. So perhaps there are greases that will do so but, by definition, a dielectric product is designed NOT to do so.
Doug
Doug
