I almost hate to ask, but when you took the inter-coolers off to replace the injectors and rails, did you use new gaskets? And did you make sure to follow the correct fastener tightening order procedure (Just to make sure that all surfaces fit together without one causing another to be slightly out of place) Also did you make sure the part-load breather pipe is installed correctly?

 

Yes, new gaskets all around. And I want to say yes, but I can't be sure for the part load breather pipe. I placed that as it was installed beforehand.

 

OK, one last thing. Did you take care of the EGR pipe yet? I just ran across a recall letter, 309-S501AM that mentions cracking EGR pipes and an updated replacement. Now granted that letter is from May 2004 so the likelihood of you getting Jaguar to take care of it even if never performed is likely zilch/nada. But it does make a few references to symptoms you have going on now. Also not sure how good your hearing is but if there is a young person around that can lend an ear with a length of hose in it and can move the other end around all the various places for leaky gaskets, fasteners and fittings I would take advantage of them lol!
My hearing is still darn good for my age but the days of hearing a TV flyback transformer working from 3 rooms away are behind me now. I do have a MAC Tools Vacuum Leak Detector model # ET200VT that is extremely sensitive, almost to sensitive though as some electrical noises will cause false positives.

 

Im waiting on a replacement pipe, Covid-19 has it a little slow, so itll be a few weeks till it gets here. I seen that recall, and the symptoms it's lists are something I have considered, sadly the dealer here is pretty bad in my experience.

Lol I'm young enough (28) to have good hearing, just kinda useless whenever the car has 3in pipes, x pipe and magnaflow mufflers on it lol. It was way too quiet for me originally lol. I'm simply inexperienced, and lacking the tools necessary to perform a good diagnosis. I'm pretty sure a decent shop could figure it out. YouTube training only goes so far and covers only a few cars lol.

 

I'm assuming a false code, owners manual lists nothing on it in any way, shape, or form. But, that's good enough for me, I assumed it didn't cause the current issues.

 

Keep in mind that a scanner that reads false codes can also be a scanner that does not see real codes. Just food for thought

 

Well, just to update. Wanted to drive the car to get reasons for the 02 sensors and get lambda data, and an interesting thing I've noticed. Very low brake power. So the vacuum leak I'm assuming is connected to the brake vacuum lines. So, I need to see where these lines go. I'm definitely getting there!

 

The vacuum check valve is where the hose attaches to the booster. Considering the fire was on that side I would not be surprised if the valve may have failed. Usually the booster would not fail with such a slight fire but I have seen them suddenly go bad. But carry on checking, we'll get this figured out!

 

One of these would be handy lol

 

Found this hose having a leak and being much shorter than on this older thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-153781/

So, going off the fix i sent posted on there, I'm going to attempt that and see what occurs.

 

Your issue on exchanging MAFS, without knowing anything else, makes me thing of what will happen if you put a MAF in for a XK8 and not the R- you just run out of range and the curve would be different although I would think you would throw a code to indicate -something like P0103- P0111 area.

Why not get an early version of the SDD and let the Jag software figure out all your misfires and FTrims. You have put this much time, money and effort into the car. I also have an Icansoft for Jag/LR that will show some 135 live data points that could be helpful and misfire counts on each cylinder. the generic one will not do that.
Tom in Dallas/Plano

 

Where is the leak?

 

It was on the edge of the pipe, where it entered the throttle body elbow. The o ring and pipe were broken inside it. Replaced o ring and cut pipe and extended it with some vacuum line, placed it in and got rid of that leak. It didn't fix the issue, but it is a step in the right direction.

 

Yes, you need to find that brass bushing. It is available separately from Jaguar for the S-Type. There is an o-ring and a funky plastic one-way push style cage that keeps the line in. Again, not listed for the XK8/R, but available none-the-less.

PS: Part# C2S15816

 

Brass bushing was there. It was still in the housing, so I just removed the broken plastic and resealed it using the pipe with an extension in it.

 

I replaced the brake vacuum line brass fitting on the intake elbow with a great fix someone came up with. Unfortunately I can't remember the specifics, but I went to Home Depot and bought a two ended compression fitting. The threaded section on one end was a near perfect fit into the hole left after I bashed the OEM brass fitting out. I epoxied it in as well. The other compression end fit the vacuum line nicely. It hasn't leaked a wiff in over four years. And the real advantage of this set-up is that you can easily remove the brake line from the intake elbow should you ever need to. This was impossible with the cheap, OEM set-up.

 

Have you replaced the fuel pressure regulator, that might be giving you some strange fuel trims. Also, you mentioned replacing the fuel pumps with 50psi aftermarket; could they be giving you too much pressure? The lack of power over 3500rpm might be due to the second fuel pump not cutting in properly. As I understand it, one pump works at low speed, and the other pump cuts in when fuel demand is high.
good luck
Pete

 

Just for info, I am not familiar with the B1313/14 codes, but P1313/14 is known:

 

My thoughts:
- The engine will start and run without the MAF, in limp mode, but it will run smooth on idle and wont misfire.
- You have a vacuum leak, after the throttle body.
- When only one bank is affected, the leak will be very close to that bank, after the intercooler. I would start with the intake gasket or the injectors.
If you spray some very flammable liquid (we call it "start gas" in Norway) around the intake manifold on that bank when the engine is at idle, you should be able to hear the engine react when you hit the spot where the leak is.

 

Yes, I have replaced the regulator with new one that has the little pipe on it.
I replaced the pumps because of a low fuel pressure issue, I was getting only 5ish psi on the fuel rail and the old fuel pumps were dying.