That's what I was thinking, just out of time currently, since lockdown has ended for me and now I'm back at work, got some serious catching up to do. I am assuming a leak around either the intercooler to intake or the lower intake to head part. The car did go through a semi explosive fire, and has over 160,000 miles now.

My plan just is to get all new gaskets again, and redo the entire top of the motor. Ensure every surface is super clean and do it nice and slow.

 

Im thinking the b1313 codes are some kind of miscommunication between the reader and the car.
From what I can tell, there isn't anything on the car that relates to it.

 

You know, there could be a problem with the injector electrical connections. I am assuming you did not replace the connectors and had no problems getting them off the first time? Does the scanner you have available do mode 6 testing? Likely find mode 6 on the generic side of the scanner if it is capable. With mode 6 you may be able to see the misfire before it gets bad enough to set an actual misfire code.

 

Going back to how some scanners may mis read or not read, depending on where he got that information from it is possible that your scanner mis interpreted the "P" as a "B". Looking at the information he posted about the P1313 and P1314 does make it plausible. Although you are not setting any P300 to P308 codes which should be appearing if the information is correct. I think it would be a good idea to see if some one local has a different scan and data device. Also never underestimate the ELM237 scan devices. Even tho I have numerous high end scan tools, I do use the ELM 237 on occasion. Some where on this site i remember seeing where one of the regulars has done some testing on where to get the better more reliable ELM237 device and an app that works better than most

 

I was thinking of getting an elm237, doesn't hurt though what app are you guys using for it, any recommendations?

 

Have you checked your mass air censer I have xk and had similar issues hope that helps fun cars to drive I have 60000 miles on it go out on road trips over 400 miles one way opened up 150 so fast

 

Some people like the torque pro app and there are other apps that my memory is at a loss right now. I have no clue what program I am running on mine as it came on a mini cd with several other programs and was loaded with virus's that I had to be careful to eliminate when I installed it. I have had mine for years. When you go to buy one, make sure you are getting one from a reputable manufacturer. There is a long history on the ELM327 that starts from the original release where it was not locked and therefore was hacked and copied by tons of counterfeiters. Most of them in my opinion are nearly garbage and it is common to be advertised at a revision level that is not correct. Also another common problem is with connectivity. Remember that data takes time to get from one place to another. If there is a connection problem it may take several attempts to get enough correct data to update what you will be seeing. Personally I prefer the direct cable version that plugs into my laptop but I also have the bluetooth and wifi versions. The latter, while allowing you freedom are subject to interference both on the receiving device (smart phone ,tablet etc.) and can some times cause problems with the vehicle. ( A couple oof years ago I diagnosed a TPMS problem that was being caused by a bluetooth adapter and another car (BMW) that would develop a dead battery that we traced to a blue tooth dongle that would occasionally cause several computers to remain powered up with the key off) Of course with the cabled version you have a physical attachment that limits your mobility and can develop connection problems within the cord and connections. The ELM327 chip set is the key, it allows communication to and from the vehicle by taking the data protocol of the vehicle and converting it into something that can communicate with the device you choose to see that data. The software takes that data and converts it into something you can actually read/understand. So choose an adapter that you think will work best for you and is supported by a reputable manufacturer and a software program/app that will turn it into something you can understand in the shortest time possible.

 

Well, it's been a while but I have an update. Bad news. Motor is blown. The piston ring in the cylinder that had the bad injector expanded and scored the cylinder wall, leaving me with a dead cylinder. Funny thing was that it would pass a compression test and leak down test. Only discovered after pulling the cylinder heads. So, I'm at a crossroads with the car. Either score a new motor or sell it. Much appreciated with the help, but essentially a freak accident killed the car. I'm going to weigh my options and see what's what

 

Well that is not good. By chance just how bad is the scoring - Pictures? It is a bit odd that it passed compression and leak down testing unless the the scoring does not begin a fair distance below the top of the cylinder. If the scoring is not to bad perhaps a cylinder clean up and replacement piston/rings may be one option?

I have some pretty good connections in the used engine world with better than average warranties and am waiting for a response from them before I let you know what I found. I did look in to average KBB values for the XKR which should be taken with a grain of salt , but pricing runs from $6500 to $10500. Considering what you have spent thus far and depending on how you feel about the possibility of additional undetected problems and the desire to have a nice car to drive, replacing the engine with a used one may be one option.

Just doing a quick search on the engine production range it would appear that FORD has or is ceasing production of the basic engine series this year. It would also appear that this engine series in different displacement and configurations has seen quite a bit of use in many different autos. Unfortunately, I am not the person to ask about the possibility of swapping for a different variant. But perhaps some of the other members may have some input on that matter.

However you decide, do let us know what the final outcome is as I am certain we would like to know.

 

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures, but it was near the bottom of the cylinder. Currently I just weighing my options, since it looks like I can score a motor for decent prices as it seems it'll be cheaper to replace than fix. But, I haven't decided yet. I may just go crazy and LS swap it, who knows lol.

 

don’t give up on that ride very fast and classic design that makes everyone noticed when you get on the road it stands out and not everyone drives one that’s what Separate us on the road go with your hart drives you crazy and puts a smile on your face at the same time good luck.