finally got the crank bolt off......i need a new crank bolt and if i should, new front main seal and the cone shape part for the bolt seat(?). been searching online shops, but have not found the bolt...need direction

1999 xk8 non supercharged
thanks

 

See if this link will help if not contact Walt and see if he can guide you in the right direction.

Link Crank belt pulley loose, how to remove? - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Here's the Part Numbers. This should make it easier to source suppliers:



(click on the image to enlarge it)

Graham

 

Awesome ! thanks guys!

 

If you have the cover off, definitely change the seal. the bolt and cone washer must be replaced.

 

agreed, all this work, going to get it while its easy

 

I have never needed to replace the split cone in the damper.

TSB 33-10 recommends only the following..........

"Note: Always replace the timing case oil seal, the damper O-ring, and the
damper retaining bolt with new items any time the damper is removed."

The split cone is not a 'wear-item' and can be reused.

The old bolt can be grooved like a tap to remove debris or galled material and saved in the toolbox. I have had to use mine for a lot of cranks to get the threads clean. I used a cut-off wheel to cut the grooves and a thread file for cleanup.

bob gauff

 

Thanks Motorcar- duly noted and will save me some $$ next project!

(which should be in the next couple of months)

 

Do you mean 303-10?

 

Yes Gus
I guess the zero key is baulky. I'll press it harder next time.

TSB 303-10

bob gauff

 

Bob, Thanks for attaching the TSB file but it says:

Caution: Do not use JD 216, crankshaft setting peg, to hold the crankshaft


when tightening or loosening the center bolt of the crankshaft.

- So with the engine in place how do you hold the crank when you are wanting such a high torque to tighten or loosen?

jd

 

Some have used (with good result) a used serpentine belt on the crank pulley with a chain wrench around it.

There is a more redneck technique that I will not mention that involves a flat pry bar and the flex plate.

 

I strongly disagree regarding the cone not being a wear item. It is deformed during torque and will not repeat that when reused. The part is inexpensive and if that thing lets go the problems are magnified. Replace that and the bolt. I apparently had this problem (from work done previous to my ownership) and it was a gigantic mess because it destroyed the damper when it didn't hold. Don't take the risk.

Regarding torque when reinstalling: I had a mechanic do the install because I lack the facility. This thing requires major torque, something the mechanic pointed out. He jacked up the passenger side of the car and jammed the flywheel to lock the crank. He then used the jack handle on the torque wrench to get what was needed. This is not a trivial problem.

 

OK, here is what happened....drove home in a rain storm, turned on the AC because it was hot, and the charging light came on, so I cut it off. Next day needed to drive it and charge light was on and felt sluggishness in the steering....soooooo, replaced the serpentine belt. No good there sooooo must be the Alternator.....did that, no better sooooooo replaced the power steering pump, then new belt was not was not turning at all. That's when I realized the damper was the problem. Apparently the damper bolt must have backed out somehow a couple of threads....the damper bolt was damaged in the process (a couple of threads were half eaten...just half) this I found out once I got the bolt out. While the damper became loose, the COLLETT began to wear on the seat of the damper, damaging it and the collet. Been working on this for 8 weeks, and now am getting new parts and going to put her back together.
I hope this chain of events helps someone else in the future,
later

 

This chain is very similar to what I experienced although I got straight to the damper problem so didn't replace the other parts. When everything on the belt goes mucky look for the common thread. What happened is it slips for a short while before completely letting go. This was all detailed in another thread on this forum. Why this happened is a guess but I assume prior work not properly finished but the design itself (the split collett vs. tried and true key lock) is inherently really bad.

To make a long story short, you will need a new damper in addition to the other parts. The damper is expensive and may or not be available. I saw that jagbits had "rebuilt" dampers listed for about half. I did not pursue this as I was fortunate to pick up a used damper from Mr. Avos in Belgium.

 

yup, i got another damper also- so am going to put back together.the split collet goes into the cone of the damper, but the forward end of the collet leaves a lip on the face of the damper. this leads me to believe that to make the balancer hold tight against the bearing, alot of torque must be applied. does this sound about right? only those who have replaced these parts would know what i am speaking of.
thanks in advance,

 

Yes, there is a lot of torque but don't remember the number right now. Be sure to get this from the JTIS as it is very important. The mechanic who did my work used the handle from his floor jack as an extension bar on the torque wrench. Using the flywheel to lock the crank is good because the large diameter relative to the crank bolt makes this easier to manage. I didn't do that work so can't comment on the details other than he got access by jacking up the passenger side of the car.

BTW in forum posts it is always helpful to let everyone know where you sourced the difficult parts (ie the damper) and what the cost was. This will be helpful to the next poor soul who has to deal with this.

 

Use this link and go to page PDF 100 of the form Page 96 and see if that helps.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...sb_09_2003.pdf

 

Thanks Gus, this is not the first time you have helped me. Would like to take the Cat from here to your way one day, of course, with the top down!

 

If you ever want to drive Sky Line Dr. and end up in Shenandoah Valley send me a note to tell me when and if my car is up and running we can meet up. Ours is sick and in my shop. Replaced a cracked intake manifold, fixed a few other vacuum leaks, replaced, the TB and the left engine shock mount. Just let us know when you have yours on the road again!