Can some one help me with instructions on how to remove and replace the transmission in my xk8 ... Its too expensive to let a shop handle it here in south louisiana.. if any one can let me know just how to do it i would thank u in advance. ..

 

I'll take a guess that it's a 4.0 litre with a ZF transmission?

I've done transmissions on an XJ40 and an X300 but have so far avoided it on the XK8. Checking the JTIS, the procedure looks much the same.

Two things to take into account:
1. the rear of the engine has to be supported
2. the transmission is VERY heavy

For some reason I can't get the Transmission Removal procedure PDF to upload to the forum. Here's a link to the PDF on my MediaFire account:

JTIS - 1999 Transmission Removal.pdf

This is the 'official' Jaguar method. Without the engine support cradle and a transmission jack, you're going to have to work out a way of supporting the engine from above whilst having the vehicle high enough off the ground to be able to withdraw the transmission backwards and then lower it to clear the sills. I stood the front of the car on ramps, held the engine up on a mobile scaffolding tower and used a plank of 6 x 1 timber on top of a trolley jack to manoeuvre the transmission!

Graham

 

I didn't use an engine support device other than a short piece of 1x4 (2x4?) between the oil pan and cross brace, near the front pulley. Be certain to mark the jurid coupling and driveshaft before unbolting (potentially balanced assy.) and pay attention to the instructions regarding correctly positioning the flexplate/converter before reassembly. The exhaust can be slid apart with some persuasion. Unbolting the catalytic converters is the difficult part, everything else is fairly straightforward. Before reinstalling give due consideration to replacing the heater hoses while they are so easy to access.

 

Thanks guys, for the info. I will be doing this project next weekend,

 

Good day:

I guess I am like others with that transmission ( 99 xk8) . If you could do me ( us ) a favour and write up a follow up post and let us know how you got on. As I am planning on keeping my car for the long haul there may ( will ) come a point when I will have to haul the tranny out as well.

Howard

 

This is just a Oh by the way comment. If you remove the valve covers you can get to all the bolts on the catalytic converters and have them out your way faster than it takes you to get the valve covers off. This will also open an avenue to fish a new heater hose under the intake with out pulling the intake off. That is if you are going to replace the heater hose octopus.

There are only two bolts that hold the metal tube portion of the norma connection to the under the intake metal hose located on the side of the throttle body. Again a breeze to change with the valve covers off. Besides when was the last time they were off. If its been forever I bet there is oil in the spark plug wells.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rma+connection

This link shows you the room you have to work with the cats out of the way. Also i would have changed the octopus if the tranny was out, but since it was not part of this repair I just fixed the norma connection and not replaced the entire hose mess. Although with both cats out I probably could have.

 

I will be removing my transmission this weekend. The instructions for removal are greatly appreciated but what do you mean by "correctly positioning the flexplate/converter before reassembly" I have not found this in the instructions. Are their re-assembly instructions I need to read?

 

I only linked to the Transmission Removal procedure in post #2.

The Transmission Installation procedure can be downloaded from my MediaFire account by following this link:

http://www.mediafire.com/view/4h58fg...stallation.pdf

Instructions for alignment of the drive plate are on the second page.

Graham

 

Graham:

How do I secure a copy of the manual you are taking these instructions from? I will be in need of it given the task at hand in my XK8 restoration project. Can you direct me please. Thanks :-)

 

I have to do this soon also.

I just want to be sure: without the transmission, will the engine tilt BACKWARDS or will it tilt FORWARDS?

I haven't had the hood popped in awhile, but can some temporary brackets to built from scrap metal that you can bolt to the top of the motor and secure at the firewall, strut towers, etc.?

B

 

My motor stayed level, I did not support it in any way. The motor mounts are pretty close to the center of the motor.
This task is not for the faint of heart but if you have taken transmissions in and out before, you will be fine and save a grundle of cash (I repaired my A-drum for less than $200).
There is a bracket mounted to the top of the transmission bell housing that holds a lot of wire connector plugs. That bracket either has to unbolt from the tranny or you have to figure out how to get the connectors out of the bracket (either way is challenging). Also there are at least ten bolts holding the tranny to the engine (way over kill).
Hope this helps.

 

Hi Karl, once you got the tranny out of the car, how difficult is it to change the A drum over? Just wondering whether to change my tranny for the spare I have, or to change the A drum? Any tips or advice appreciated.
Cheers,
Arty

 

If you have been into a transmission at all before or are inclined in the grease monkey way then you will be fine. The drum is relatively easy to get to.(pull the pump and then the A and B drum are right there)
If you do not know the history of a spare transmission then I would definitely open it up and see because it seems they all fail eventually.
I have included some pics that show the cracked drum at the retaining ring slot. It must have been cracked for a while because of the loose piece is almost worn off. The plunger o-ring finally failed causing a fourth gear drive home. Before repair it would be slow to go into drive, after it engages right away. I have read some where that you can see this drum from the oil pan opening. good luck, and let me know how it is going. I will be glad to talk you through it.

 

Hi Karl, thanks for the info and the offer of advice!
Hopefully it will be a few months down the line before I am in a position to do anything about the box, still need a bit more testing to confirm.
When you say pull the pump I am lost. My spare is lying outside covered up, it came from an XJ8 but is the same box, I have cleaned it up a bit with a wire brush and drill attachment just waiting to go. Below is a pic of my box which I have been informed was in perfect working order in its previous life but was removed after a seized engine ( oil leak ) in a 2001 XK8. I have new oil and filter in the car now but am prepared for the worst.

 

From the look of your photo, the torque converter is out of the transmission, so the pump housing is right behind where the converter was. there are numerous bolts in the Bell housing that hold the pump housing in, also the bell housing unbolts and is removable. the smaller shaft that goes into the torque converter is actually part of the A-drum. Once the pump housing plate is off then you will see the B-drum. The A drum is not visible yet as it is inside the B-drum. The shaft, as I said before is connected to the A-drum. Grab the shaft and pull out the A-B drum assembly and then you can see if there is any damage.
Just because a tranny worked when it was removed does not mean that it will not fail. My A-drum was cracked for a while before the o-ring gave out. the new design A-drum is thicker and you can get a good one for less than $150 USD, I would upgrade it any way. All that having been said, I am a little worried that am getting you into a COW (can of worms). Search on line to see if there is a way of checking for damage by taking the oil pan off.
Happy Wrenching

 

Thanks for the info Karl, let me get this correct please, I bought the box in the photo with the torque convertor, that is all I got. I thought the a-b drums were inside the unit I bought. Are you saying they are on the other side of the unit ( and not included in the unit I bought ) I have shown in the picture? If so that would mean I bought the box in error, thinking that was the faulty part
I have read that faulty solenoids/valves on earlier models caused increased pressure in the box which in turn caused the damage to the A-B drums. I knew it would be a C.O.W's but needed advice to make an informed decision on how to proceed, and I thank you for that.


Cheers,
Arty

 

I read through my replies to you and "I" also got confused. I apologize for not being on point. (I should learn not to post late at night) The transmission in your photo looks complete and in good shape and just like the one from my 2000 xk8( the drums are on the inside) so you made a good choice and are wise to have a spare. After carefully reviewing what I would do in your place. I would use the original transmission until is quits. Mine ran 120,000 miles and after re-reading my original info from when I repaired my drum, I realized that it is a common problem but not all of them fail. Your original xk8 tranny could last along time and might have already been repaired. and if it goes out then swap in the spare, that could last along time and might have already been repaired. Once you have the spare in place then you could go through and upgrade your original. I would put the torque converter back in your spare and wrap it up well and not touch it knowing that it will work for later.
Your Cat is beautiful. what color is that. I considered using those type wheels because I like spokes but stayed with the double fives.

 

Hi Karl, your logic is the same as mine, that the way I planned it, to use the original as long as possible, then deal with the problem when it arises.
My car colour is Sapphire Blue, as far as I know it was only used for two or three years around the turn of the 80's to the 90's. Yes I agree it is a nice colour and glad you like it, thanks. The box is good insurance in case the original dies on me.
Thanks for confirmation that I bought the correct piece, I take it all I have to do is pull the bell housing off and the A-B drum will be accessible? I believe it is more of a problem to get the upgraded A-B drums in the U.K than it is for you guy's in the U.S. Strange as the car was made over here, yes the box is a foreign one but you know what i mean.....LOL's.
Thanks again,
Cheers,
Arty.