I have replaced both vvts, all seals and gaskets. Chains look good with new style tensioners. Have recently changed oil and filter. Went to heavier grade and synthetic. Have checked wiring and all is good. Still receiving both 1384 and 1396 codes on pretty regular basis. Any hints as to where to go from here will be very much appreciated. Car runs fine with no unusual noises. I love tinkering with this car but would like to see light at the end of the tunnel.

 

Hey Dale,
I think most cars the age of ours are somewhat of a 'rolling restoration', but look on the plus side: you get to drive a drop-dead gorgeous motor as payback

Looking at what's changed, were you getting these codes before you did the top-end work? If not, it's possible that you may have disturbed something.

The codes translate to 'VVT solenoid malfunction' on both A and B banks, so you're probably looking at a common cause. The diagnostic gives the following clues:

VVT solenoid valve to ECM PWM drive circuit fault
VVT solenoid valve to ECM ground circuit fault
VVT solenoid failure
VVT oil flow fault
VVT / camshaft mechanical failure

You've likely checked the connectors at the cam covers, but I see the wiring for both VVTs is routed through the connectors on top of the transmisssion. Just to make it a little harder in this instance, Jaguar has put each of the two VVT solenoid wires into a separate connector. One is via PI1 (57-way) the other is via PI2 (13-way).

Do double-check that the connections are good, clean & no bent pins and there are no nicks in any of the wires. Bit of a pain as they're not easy to get at under the TB.

Oil flow appears to be a possibility. More knowledgeable members will be better placed to guide you here.

Kudos to you on your successful cooling repairs. It's a journey, but think how much you've learned!

HTH, Mike

 

Had codes before I started any work. Had replaced one connector previously which was bad and all wiring checks ok. Also, one Vvt solenoid was broken in half obviously from some previous work. Also, I found a double screwdriver bit in head where intake attaches so I have no trust at all in previous work

 

At least it wasn't a bent 5/8" coolant hose clamp like I found under my cover.

 

Had checked wiring before and found bad connector which I replaced and checked that Vvt would operate with voltage applied but have looked to no avail to figure out if and when I'm getting voltage to Vvt. Can anyone point me in right direction?

 

You can check if the VVT unit is being signalled by hanging a test lamp off the connector and running the engine (follow the procedure in the diagnostic to trigger its actuation).

Away from the wiring, there's a link in some cases to these codes flagging after tensioner replacement (you mention gen. 3 tensioners so yours must have been changed at some point), with causes as varied as minor misalignment of the cams or oil feed blockages caused by debris from the old tensioners.

I couldn't find anything conclusive, but suggest you do a search on 'AJ27 P1384/1396' or similar to follow this track. Here's one I found:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...25/#post452600

Mike

 

I'll try and hook up a light tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for the feedback. Sometimes it helps just to hear someone else's opinion

 

Hooked up test light today. When I turn ignition on or start engine I have a very dim light. When I raise engine rpm over 1000 light burns very bright. Also, when I apply voltage to solenoid I can hear clicking

 

Anyone have any hints of what I should try next? I'm certainly open to suggestions

 

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Hi Dale,

My take on the diagnostic list of causes is that, for whatever reason, the inlet cam timings aren't responding as the the electronics think they should be.

From reading over your previous posts it's likely you inherited the codes from the previous owner. The damaged connector & valve may well be leftovers from previous 'fixes'.

I've spent some time trying to research this further, but end up back with two recurring possibilities. I imagine this is a sticky issue since I didn't find much in the way of definitive answers.

1) Lack of oil pressure to the VVT units seems to be the favourite where there's no history of tensioner replacement. Most say changing to a heavier weight oil will help, another says going back to 5w-30 cured it. Go figure...

2) Previous tensioner replacement. Apparently the timings don't have to be off by much to upset the electronics. Perhaps whoever did the job didn't get it quite right (but on both sides?), or the debris from the old ones is causing a blockage.

What would I do next? Very hesitant to guide you as I just don't have the experience. I'd sincerely hope for someone with first-hand knowledge to chime in.

Failing that, it's a process of elimination. From what I've learned, I'd start with the easiest first and try a thicker oil (which I believe you've already done), then drop the sump and have a serious look around for bits of tensioner. I guess that the oil pressure light doesn't come on at tickover?

Otherwise you may have to lift cam covers and re-check the cam alignment

My car has the earlier on/off VVT arrangement so there's no useful checks/comparisons. Sorry I can't steer you better.

Mike

 

I really appreciate your response and input. I have been thinking of both situations and have been torn as to which way to go. Think I'll just think on it for a few days and probably will pull sump first and have a look and maybe even hook up an oil pressure gauge. Again, thank you very much for the input

 

Dale,
I seriously doubt that you're being ignored: there's just not that much information out there that I can find other than the thicker oil cure in some cases.

Been doing some more reading, so at least I better understand the theory of how the VVT operates...

On reflection, I think your idea of hooking up a proper, known-accuracy oil pressure gauge as a next step is the best move. It should help to confirm that your issue isn't low oil pressure generally rather than just a (possibly) reduced flow to the VVT shuttle valves. The built-in idiot gauge is worse than no gauge at all IMHO. It's only value is that it fills the hole in the dash that would be there otherwise

We're assuming at this point that it's a single cause, but I'd also hang the lamp off the other VVT connector just in case.

The diagnostic states that a second throw of the code(s) will set the 'Check Engine' light. As you don't mention it, are you getting that and/or any other codes?

Mike

 

I did hook light to both solenoids (1 at a time). Result was same--slight flicker at idle and bright as rpm increased. Check engine light is coming on and can clear codes with obd but come back after driving

 

OK, so something else to cross off the list for now. It shows that 'The Management' is commanding both inlet cam timings to advance when you rev the engine. As an aside, I'd expect the lamp not to change if the 'Check Engine' warning was on.

Oil pressure gauge next?

 

Yes. Do you know if idiot light has to stay hooked up to control electronics or can I replace it with manual gauge?

 

AFAIK the electronics doesn't give a hoot other than, according to one of Gus' posts, the pressure switch which operates at a pressure of 0.15 to 0.41 bar (2.2 to 5.9 psi) to turn the warning light off. The gauge just plants itself mid-scale.
You can remove the pressure switch temporarily to do the checks, or tee off to get a separate feed.

2.2 to 5.9 psi isn't much to keep bearing surfaces well supplied so you can see why the standard gauge isn't worth the space it occupies.

Check out WhiteXKR's 'RealGauge' for more info on this and the equally-useless temp. gauge.

Wish my fuel gauge always stayed in the middle :/

Completely off-topic, hope you get the President you voted for. Watching here atm and it's about as close as the UK's 'Brexit'. Guess I'll know when I get up in the morning - er - who triumphed, I mean.

Good luck,
Mike

 

I'm looking at Whitexkr's setup as well as other options. Just got too many projects going right now. Will keep you informed

 

Finally got oil gauge hooked up today. 50-60 lbs at idle so I guess that rules out oil pressure. May have to look at resetting timing but I sure hate to do it. Oh well, gives me another project to keep me off the road

 

You've been busy

I interpret your statement of "receiving both 1384 and 1396 codes on pretty regular basis" to mean that you can check after a drive and see no codes:- i.e. it's intermittent. Please correct me if I'm wrong here.

Where I'm going with this is that, for some of the time at least, we can assume:

1) The electronics is telling the shuttle valves to work and they're responding
2) The shuttle valves are being fed with enough oil pressure for them to operate properly
3) The cams have phased (advanced) within the range that the electronics expect.

The converse of this is that when the codes are thrown one or more of the above conditions is not being met. Sorry if that is stating the obvious, I'm just trying to lay out the logic.

60 psi at idle - presume that's at a cold start. If so can you run the motor up to temp and take readings at idle and, say, 1500-2000 rpm?

Unfortunately I don't know what would be considered 'normal', but I'd like to see at least 15psi at idle and around 50 psi above 1500.

For some reason I can't find the info in my car's handbooks :|

Mike