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How close does the key transponder need to be to start the car?

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Old 04-10-2014, 09:45 PM
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Default How close does the key transponder need to be to start the car?

Instead of paying $500 for a new cut and programmed key I am thinking about removing the transponder from my one good key and putting it somewhere in the car and then cutting several other blank keys to use. I could even do pmosov's cool flip-key conversion a few threads below and not even worry about swapping transponders.

Is this a viable opton if I glue the transmponder to say the bottom of the steering coulmn or to the plastic trim inside the steering coulmn? Or does it no kidding have to be in the ignition switch?

My car is both insured and kept inside my garage so I am not at all worried about theft.
 

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Old 04-10-2014, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by auburn2
Instead of paying $500 for a new cut and programmed key I am thinking about removing the transponder from my one good key and putting it somewhere in the car and then cutting several other blank keys to use. I could even do pmosov's cool flip-key conversion a few threads below and not even worry about swapping transponders.

Is this a viable opton if I glue the transmponder to say the bottom of the steering coulmn or to the plastic trim inside the steering coulmn? Or does it no kidding have to be in the ignition switch?

My car is both insured and kept inside my garage so I am not at all worried about theft.

My understanding is that the transponder will only work if it's actually in the ignition. It gets power through an induction coil. Power travels from the ignition through the key to the transponder when the ignition is turned to the on position. So just gluing it in proximity to the ignition won't work; it needs power.
 

Last edited by 01Silverstone; 04-10-2014 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Silverstone
My understanding is that the transponder will only work if it's actually in the ignition. It gets power through an induction coil. Power travels from the ignition through the key to the transponder when the ignition is turned to the on position. So just gluing it in proximity to the ignition won't work; it needs power.

Well that sucks, not only close but actually touching! Thanks for the answer though.
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:03 PM
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You could remove the coil that surrounds the ignition switch, relocate it (wire extension probably required) and build a jig to support it with the key positioned inside the coil as originally designed. The coil creates a field that excites the transponder which transmits a signal received by the same coil and sent back to the computer. This answers the computer's challenge and allows system operation.
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:42 PM
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How about installing a "remote start".

You can buy just a remote start from viper and several other companies.
Fairly easy to install, that needs a key preferably a valet key to be put in place.

No matter what don't forget

happy motoring...
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:18 AM
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I know someone with a Fireblade motorcycle that keeps the head of the original key on his keyring and uses a normal key without a transponder to run his bike, in that case it's certainly a proximity issue, but Jags must be different if the other replies are correct.
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:48 AM
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I think the XK8/XKR security system prevents you locking/arming the vehicle with the key in the ignition. If this is the case then fooling the Exciter Ring/Transponder pairing using the suggestions above could have the same effect.

I never tried this on my XK8's so I don't know the answer.

Graham
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by auburn2
Instead of paying $500 for a new cut and programmed key I am thinking about removing the transponder from my one good key and putting it somewhere in the car and then cutting several other blank keys to use. I could even do pmosov's cool flip-key conversion a few threads below and not even worry about swapping transponders.

Is this a viable opton if I glue the transmponder to say the bottom of the steering coulmn or to the plastic trim inside the steering coulmn? Or does it no kidding have to be in the ignition switch?

My car is both insured and kept inside my garage so I am not at all worried about theft.
I found a local locksmith who supplied a key and programmed the chip for less than $150. Call around a few and ask if they can supply and program a standard T5 transponder chip, and do they supply and cut Tibbe style keys. The T5 chip is common and not a Jaguar special. The Tibbe key is usually the biggest issue.
 
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Old 04-17-2014, 09:48 AM
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I pulled the exciter ring off of the ignition and zip tied the key to the inside of it then tucked it away. Just used my second key with no head (Used a flip key body) and all was fine. (locked and unlocked with key or fob)
 
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Old 04-19-2014, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by dsnyder586
I pulled the exciter ring off of the ignition and zip tied the key to the inside of it then tucked it away. Just used my second key with no head (Used a flip key body) and all was fine. (locked and unlocked with key or fob)
So if I am reading this correct you cut the metal "male" part that goes into the ignition off the key leaving the black pkastic "head" with the transponder. Finally tou removed the exciter ring and zip tied the "head" to it and tucked it away somewhere. Now you can use any properly cut key to start the car.

So nothing else connected? You have no power going into the "head" though the "stub" left where you cut off the key? If so the transponder is purely a passive device which does not need to be powered through the ignition and this is different from what I read above.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:18 PM
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There is a small current through the coil which excites the chip in the key. The chip then transmits a small signal back to the coil which answers the challenge from the module. There is no current passing through the contact of the key and the switch.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:49 PM
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I used a whole key (my spare, which is also handily inside the cowl if need be) and used my other key which the transponder had been broken on. (so I just needed the tibbe part from that point forward)
 
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