OK, before I get a bunch of crap, I DID do a search and can't find the answer.

Jag dealer wants $200 to replace leaking hose from coolant reservoir to thermostat. I asked the service manager if this is something I could do, and he said yeah, but you'll need to pressurize the system afterwards.

In the old days, when I flushed out the coolant to add new, that's all I did and drove off, so what's the deal?

 

He means after the replacement you 'should' perform a pressure test of the coolant system to ensure no leaks, there are a number of thread on this and probably one in the stickie diy, you can rent a pressure tester from some auto-markets but beware you need a certain cap for jaguar, not all come with the correct one. That all said you can take it for a drive, it'll pressurize itself as the coolant warms, then take a look to see if there are any leaks. Check over next days if you need to add any fluid as well as a sign of a leak.

 

The Bleed Hose (item 7) from the Reservoir (item1) is leaking?


(click on the image to enlarge it)


1. you can easily replace the Bleed Hose yourself
2. a subsequent pressure test is unnecessary

A pressure test is used to determine the source of a leak. You already know where this is!

The Bleed Hose is connected with Norma clips:



There is a special tool for these but they can be opened and closed with pliers. Squeeze the red 'shoulders' together to open; squeeze the blue 'shoulders' together to close.

Graham

 

I replaced the brittle mostly plastic factory hose from the thermostat tower to the coolant reservoir last November with a section of 5/16-inch rubber fuel hose. At the same time I threw away the lousy factory Norma clamps and replaced them with the appropriate-sized worm-drive clamps. A much more robust solution which puts an end to any coolant leaks in that particular area. Total cost was about eight bucks....

 

Thanks. Apparently I don't know how to search in this forum. I did a search for "stickie diy" and no match. Can you post the link to what you are referring to?

 

Just search this forum using "XK8 coolant leak repairs" and you'll be rewarded with a number of pertinent threads to read up on....

Be aware that the black plastic coolant outlet duct (some call it the thermostat tower) will warp with age and heat cycles and then tends to leak from the thermostat housing. My wife's 2006 XK8 was leaking fairly profusely in that exact spot after I did the coolant system pressure test back in late November. I replaced that plastic duct with a new one (Jaguar part no. AJ89486) and fixed the main leak. To gain enough working room to get your quarter-inch socket drive down onto the two rear Torx T-30 bolts holding that plastic duct in place, you'll need to remove the manifold metal front plate. After you install your new plastic duct, you'll want to install a new manifold front seal (Jaguar part no. AJ87991) before you bolt the manifold metal front plate back into place....

I asked my local Jaguar parts department for discounts on both parts since they had them in stock. I paid $115 for the new black plastic coolant outlet duct and $4.50 for the new front seal. If your local Jaguar parts department won't work with you, you can find them cheaper online. I didn't want to wait for shipping and my local Jaguar parts department has learned over the years that if they won't cut me deals, I won't buy from them....

My XK8 thread covering this repair in detail was entitled "Slight Coolant Loss...." It may help you to read it....

 

Thanks. At the risk of seeming stupid, the "shoulders" look the same. So do I squeeze only the red first then the blue to close after inserting the hose?

Thanks

 

As previously stated, get rid of those Norma clamps and replace them with appropriate-sized worm-drive ones....

 

I had the thermostat replaced last year. Would that outlet duct have been replaces as well?

 

Probably not and if it was you would have noticed on the bill.

The outlet duct is a very common problem that seeps a tiny bit of coolant at a time usually showing up as a orange stain rather than a liquid.

There is now an aluminum replacement for the plastic cooling outlet duct (thermostat tower). It is less expensive than the plastic version and will outlast the car. While you have the coolant system open I would suggest replacing the radiator cross over pipe and also the upper and lower hoses as well.

The aluminum housing is a bright finish that will tarnish to a dull natural aluminum that really looks out of place on an other wise black engine. Many paint it black to match.

Rather than take the intake manifold cover off I used a bent 8mm wrench to remove the back bolts. Free to a good home since I do not plan on doing that job again.

Jaguar XJ8 XK8 Aluminum Thermostat Housing Kit AJ82217 | eBay

Jaguar V8 4 0L 1997 05 Coolant Water Outlet Pipe AJ85885 | eBay

 

Thanks. I should have looked at the bill. Item AJ89486 for $147 was billed along with thermostat housing, )maybe item # 810 CP), for $580. I read all the threads from'09, so it looks like I'm good for awhile except for the hose and Norma clamps. I agree, I'm going to use regular old fashioned atuo/marine worm clamps.

 

I've tried to photo this but couldn't get a clear image when holding the hose, pliers and camera!

In my photo in post #3 above, the clip on the right is closed; the clip on the left is open.

There's four 'shoulders' on the clip. Squeeze where shown by the red arrows (1+3) to open. Squeeze where shown by the blue arrows (1+4) to close.

Graham

 

Jon,

I disagree with that.

Norma clips are used on plastic cooling systems for two reasons:

1. speed of assembly
2. constant force - they cannot be overtightened

It's the second reason that is relevant. Worm-drive clips can very easily be over tightened to the point where they crush or shear the outlets from Expansion Tank or Thermostat Tower.

Many DIY'ers will tighten worm-drive clips as tight as possible which is OK on a steel or aluminium connection but very risky on a plastic connection.

Graham

 

I am fairly sure there is no aluminum option for the 4.2 engines.

 

Graham,

I hear you on the Norma clamp vs. worm-drive clamp issue. Yes, you must be careful not to overtighten any clamp on any plastic nozzle. If you are indeed careful, I still believe that worm-drive clamps give you a better chance at avoiding leaky connections. I've long been guilty of cranking bolts down too tightly but I always resist that urge when I'm dealing with plastic parts. Thus far all the worm-drive clamps I've used in our two Jaguars are holding up nicely. But if Jaguar had used better plastics in the first place, this issue would not be nearly as common as it is....


SteveJacks,

You are correct. No aluminum option for our 4.2 engines. 4.0 engines only....