Ok Engine mount went on my Jag XKR 2001 53K miles. You know this as you will smell burning oil after a trip on the freeway this goes away after a minute. It was the driver side, the hard one!! you can do both at the same time, passenger side is easy as there is a gap big enough to get the mount out without removing the steering rack. Once I had the 15mm top nuts undone job took me 1.45hrs and is fairly easy.

Heres how to change them thanks to all who helped me with instructions.

0/ Engage steering lock with wheels facing straight forward this should help position the 10mm steering column bolts in the correct position i.e. easy get to.
1/ Remove the air intake to throttle body. Two 8mm bolts at the throttle body, elec connector to MAS sensor, Venting tube to rocker cover, squeeze then wiggle this will come off, 5 clips on air filter top 3 wheel side 1 behind 1 firewall side. Undo the 10mm nut on the air filter base this tends to just twist the rubber base, the base and head plate of this are actually 20mm hex shape so you can use a spanner or just let it unscrew from the base as the other side is a nut welded to the underside of the wheel arch. Pull the air intake off and pull base out its held in by two plastic pegs into rubber grommets so make sure you dont loose these when you pull this out as they tend to come of with the base.
2/ Remove the 15mm nut from the top of the mounts. Passenger side is easy drivers side was a pain for me!! I used WD40 then I took the car for a drive to get it nice and hot. Now there is an elliptical hole in the sub-frame below the dip stick that has a small whole (1/2 maybe) all the way through. I used that as a fulcrum point got a 3/4 extension bar 6inch (female end in the hole) with my trolley jack bar over the end which can then be used to lever the end of the 3/4 6inch ratchet. Remember you are pulling towards the drivers side wheel. I used my left hand to hold the ratchet and right to lever. Worked fine and no special tools. Don't ever be tempted to use the rocker cover as fulcrum as its made of plastic and will crack!!
3/ Jack up the car as high as you can and put your axel stands each side.
4/ Undo the 4 bolts that hold the steering rack in place they are 13mm fairly easy to undo.
5/ Undo the bolts holding the engine mount to the sub frame, bottoms ones are 13mm on a 2001 XKR easy to undo. You need the 3/8 6inch extension to reach them.
6/ The steering column has two 10mm bolts the top one is the one you need to undo which is quite easy but once done separating the column from that end of the universal joint will be near dam impossible as mine was rusty from all the fluids that leak from above over the years (the jag designer decided it would be good idea to get every water/cooling pipe in the car to meet up there, then make joints that will leak over time) WD40 didnt help. So its easier to undo and remove the bottom one and then use a screw driver to gently prize of the joint from the steering column. Remember to mark it and before you start.
7/ Undo the elec connector at the base of the steering column has a slide clip on it.
8/ Now jack the engine up I used a bottle jack and a 4X4X6 bit of wood and jacked it from just in front of the gear box oil pan there is a nice flat solid area of gear box housing there. Jack up until the exhaust hit the underside of the car or until you can remove the mount.
8/ My mounts came out easily the drivers side one was split into. This part of the job is fairly easy if you are having trouble you need to jack a little higher
9/ Insert new mounts and put the top nuts on hand tight and insert the bottom bolts hand tight before you lower the engine !!
10/ Grease the CV joint on the steering rack (optional) lower engine and put the baby back together.