1. First job will be to remove the liner from inside the lid, you do this via the press in clips and by removing the warning triangle if fitted.
2. Looking from the inside you should be able to see 4 X 8mm hex flange nuts, remove these and the plugs connected to the number plate lights by pressing down on the metal clip on each connector
3. The new plinth uses the original holes for location pegs, this means you will have to drill 2 extra holes for the holding bolts to go through. To do this offer the plinth up to the trunk, the location pins should fit into the original holes and gently wiggle the plinth marking the paintwork where the new holes are to be placed

4. In the picture above you can just about see the mark to the left of the hole, centre punch this mark and drill a 6mm hole

5. Once both holes are drilled you will also need to drill a ½ inch hole in the middle of the 2 central fixing holes, you can also use the original line left behind by the old plinth as a go by. This hole is for the grommet which has the wires connected to it for the trunk release
6. This next procedure is an option, but is the best way for a proper fit, however if you choose not to all that will happen is the bottom edge of the plinth will not sit flush to the trunk, you will also need to be careful not to tighten the nuts too much as they will not be in contact with the metal and can be pulled out of the plinth. You will be tightening up on the light sections instead. The picture below shows the hole on the right that has been opened up to a rectangular shape to allow the light unit to sit through

7. The picture below shows what the view should look like from inside the trunk once fitted.



8. The button release has 2 wires coming off of it connected to a plug, cut the plug of and fit a ring connector to one wire, does not matter which, this wire can be fitted to one of the holding bolts for the plinth. Fit either a spade or bullet connector to the other wire

9. You now need to feed a wire through the plastic conduit on the boot lid hinge, to do this unwrap the end nearest the grommet, then cut the conduit just below the other grommet going into the bodywork

10. Feed a length of wire into the end nearest the grommet and push the wire in as far as you can get it, holding the new wire against the conduit pull back on the convoluted section as much as you can, then release the conduit section now holding onto the new wire at the same time against the original wires, the wire should feed itself through the conduit, keep doing this until you see it coming out the other end and pull through. Pull enough wire through to feed to the front of the car, from where it comes out pull it until it reaches the front headlight, this should give you enough to play with. Fit the female spade connector to the end going through the boot lid and tape everything up and refit.

11. Remove the rear seat, base and back
12. From inside the car you will see a grommet with a loom section going through, push the length of stiff wire through the grommet but keep a few inches sticking through into the car.

13. From inside the boot look for the stiff wire and tape the new wire to it.

14. From inside the car pull the stiff wire back into the cockpit with the new wire attached.
15. You now need to tuck the wire under the rear quarter plastic cover, you will also be able to tuck the wire under the sill tread plate, do this right along until you get to the front
16. Remove the under steering column cover, this is done by either 2 torx bolts or 2 8mm flange bolts

17. Feed the wire behind the front footwell plastic section and up until it is behind the lower corner section of the dash
18. You should be able to feel behind the boot/fuel flap release buttons, squeeze together the 2 tabs behind the button and push, the buttons should come free of there housing

19. Behind the button there is a electrical plug, splice the new wire into the grey and orange

20. Refit all panels and seats
21. Close the boot lid and the release button should now work.

 

Thanks VERY MUCH for the detailed explanation and photos, Tony. You took a lot of time to do this, and we all appreciate it.



Dear Mods....looks like a FAQ sticky to me...

 

Thats one nice write up XKR thanks so much for sharing.

It deffo needs to be made FAQ and one of the mods will be along shortly to make this happen I'm sure and add it to the files for future use by many.

 

Tony-

A semi-stupid question: is there any particular gauge (size) or spec for the new wire being run from the boot to the cockpit?

Thanks again-

 

That is just a low current signal...22 or 24 AWG would be fine. Under the hood you should use automotive grade wiring, on the interior it is not a big issue.

 

I should add that it needs to be stranded...it needs to survive repeated flexing at the hinge.

 

I use a 7 strand wire, not sure what that would be in US spec, but basically speaking you want something quite thin, this will then pass through the plastic sleeve easier on the boot/trunk hinge.
As White has said there is hardly any current as it is a negative switch

 

Great write up, very clear and nice to see the thing fitted with the ennlarged opening for the lamp housing, i've seen plenty badly fitted.
I did mine a few years ago along with the rear lights. I never connected the release button as i don't like running wiring tucked under trims, carpet etc.
I looked at how the post 2001 cars were connected, and saw the switched ground was connected to the security module on treminal bt41-6
As this is just below the boot floor, i thought this would save a bit of time, and also keep the additional wiring to a minimum. I never persued it any further due to worries of messing something up, but still wonder if it would work.

 

I realize this is a bit late but thank you Tony for yet another incredibly helpful post.
I am currently changing my 2000 xkr taillights over to the 2001 style lights and while I'm at it the chrome finisher will give my old cat an excellent butt lift haha

And for X100 I don't mind experimenting, Ill give your idea a shot and I'll let you know how it goes.

 

So I've drilled the openeing and placed the chrome finisher on and it does not quite fit. On the outer left and right sides it does not sit flush.

Any advise to make it sit flush?
I am considering taking my body hammers and flattening the center bulge of the trunk to give it a more gradual curve so that it will sit flush.

However I would love to know if there is a better way that I am missing.

Also on the chrome plinth I am missing the outside bolts, they have magically disappeared......

Any thoughts are welcome.

Thanks,
Alex

 

The painted plinth on '99 MY car finally fell off last week. All four of the fixing bolts had become detached so replacement required. I couldn't find a used part that had all the bolts. SNG Barrat had a new original that would need painting but I thought, instead, I'd bite the bullet and buy a new chrome version from a later car from Adamesh. A bit more expensive than the orginal but doesn't need painting and looks better to my eyes. I followed @XKRacer 's guide and think it looks rather nice. The release button is green and so matches the car paintwork (in need of a good wash and detail):



It seems a shame not to wire up the release so I followed the example of @X100 below and looked at the wiring diagram. It seemed clear - once I'd got over the the affrontery of it being called a "Trunk" switch I could seethere's a boot switch that connects to BT41-5 on the SLM.



So, I duly earthed the release switch as suggested, extended a cable from the other switch lead down to the SLM, and spliced it into the red/yellow wire connected to BT41-5. Reconnected the battery; closed the boot; it didn't work. After checking connections and earths it dawned on me: I turned on the ignition, closed the boot and pressed the button - sure enough the "Boot Open" message came on! The trunk switch is the one that tells the car whether the boot is open or closed.

Ah well, I've started now so I'll finish - off to route a wire through the cabin to the dash. I need to get into under the centre console anyway for another little job, so I'll do that...

Thanks for the@XKRacer , it worked a treat.

Oh, and I went and had a google to see if I missed anything. Google AI advised connecting to BT41-5 too! Check before following AI guidance - today I have proved that it's as stupid as me....

 

I actually did this job on my car yesterday!

 

Excellent! Did you connect up the boot release?

 

I fitted the chrome plinth several years back as I, too, prefer it to the colour-matched original.

As you've found, there is no wiring to the SLM on the pre-2001 cars, and that 'AI' isn't nearly so intelligent. The pinout on the later SLM is the same as the older version, except for the connection to BT41-6 for the trunk release button in the later plinth. It's been on my list for some time to check if the functionality already exists in the earlier SLM, but unused:- I just haven't got to it

If you have the car in pieces, you could try grounding connection BT41-6 to the SLM to see if it has any effect on the trunk latch. We may strike lucky...

 

I did. I had previously run the wire to the dash switch as I had the interior out of the car, which made life easier!

 

hi im new here, cant find way to just post other than to reply? could you or another member help me with this..

fell on ground when i shut boot !

 

I hadn't fixed the fuse box yet so gave it a try. Didn't work. I'm guessing that the module would need to be programmed to tell it that we are adding the function.

Worth a try, thanks. Back to Plan A

 

Thanks for trying. It's a Ford part - just wishful thinking on my part that the functionality might have already been there

 

There's a red 'new thread' button at the top. But that's the bolt that should be holding your rear bumper on.

 

thanks for your advice