I have (finally) got the wheel off and removed the caliper bracket etc. With nuts in place to protect threads, I have been pounding away on the in between 'lands' with a 5 lb hammer and a copper drift. The inside and the threads have been soaked with PB. I have escalated to direct hammer contact on the lands, but to no avail. As I am replacing the rotor, I further escalated to pounding on the back edge of the rotor, all the while rotating. Nothing I do seems to make a difference. It might as well be welded. My next though was a puller and pound combo, but of course the center is solid so hopes dashed. I thought of putting a torch on it, alternating with hammering and PB, but I am a bit concerned about the wheel bearings.
Given that I can't escalate to a sledge hammer without serious risk of damaging the car, has anyone any other solutions? Would really appreciate it!

 

Check the threads on here, I do believe I saw someone use the caliber bolts, slowly screwing them into the rotor.
I have had your trouble, but I do have a three prong puller and it along with a pneumatic hammer did the job.

Wayne

 

I'm not sure I understand, this correctly, Wayne. Is the idea that the caliper bolts (the bolts that seem to be torqued to 150 ftlb when they need to be taken out) are used to jack the rotor off the hub? With regard to using a puller, what is the puller pulling against? It can't push in against the center whilst hooked around the rotor, because the center is not hollow, it would need to pull from the edge of the rotor whilst pushing against the studs. How does the puller get set up. Or - not impossible - am I being dense?

 

I had the same problem. I just hammered and hammered outward on the back side of the Rotors, making sure to rotate the rotors frequently. Eventually, they came loose a little at a time.

 

I have heard of several "shade tree mechanics" solutions, not that I recommend any of them:

• Drive the car back and forth, with the lug nuts slightly loose on the problem wheel
• Wedge a piece of wood between the back of the rotor and some support, and use the power steering to pop the rotor loose
• Check for a threaded hole in the face of the rotor, and put a matching screw in it to put pressure on the hub
• Allow time for penetrating oil to do its thing
• Use heat (propane torch) on the rotor face followed by rapid cooling (cold water) and hammer blows to break the rust bond
• Apply pressure to the rotor with a screw threaded into the caliper bracket holes

There are probably a number of reasons not to do any of this, so I suggest you apply none of them...

Generally, though, it would be good to apply some constant pressure to the rotor, then hammer it.

 

This video demonstrates the use of long bolts in the carrier quite well. I'd have something to protect the rotor face if it's being re-used:


Might need to keep spinning 180 degrees and a bit of assistance from a copper or aluminium BFH.

HTH,
Mike

 

On the puller. I used a 1/4 inch plate on top of the hub with a countersink hole half way though the plate. Did a good job after applying the air hammer around the inter surface.
Be sure and use anti seize in that area when putting the new ones on.

Wayne

The above video does have it's merits in the long run of frustration.

 

Many thanks to you all. The beast is off, with much cursing at Jaguar for not providing tapped jacking screw holes in the rotor. It is fortunate that I had acquired new rotors (from which I noted that the center hub was not one with the rotor, as it appeared, due to the rust), and because the reverse pounding at 2 o/clock certainly wrecked the rotor.
I am grateful for the use of the caliper bolt suggestion. Because even the lower hole places the bolt being used (not the caliper bolt, which isn't long enough and for which I had no nut anyway) is very close to the edge or the rotor brake surface and the beginning of the flange well, I had to put a slab of 1/4" cold rolled between the bolt and the rotor. At least three hands are required - 5 are optimal - to manipulate the nut and bolt whilst holding the plate still long enough to tighten the nut whilst preventing the bolt from turning. Failing that, retrieval of the slab from the dust-shield is accomplished by forcing the slab against the rotor with a screwdriver, whilst turning the rotor CCW!
So: a meticulously cleaned hub and utility knifed clean-out of the junction of the two, is essential as this fitment appears to be almost a slip-fit tolerence. No debris allowed! This is followed by PB hosing of the this area and the studs, followed by pounding of the flange area of the rotor, followed by reverse pounding of the rotor. I think the use of a flat ended punch is better than simply hammering directly, and a lot more accurate.
More PB and more time. Day 2: the MAP cylinder is attached to the Bernzomatic torch and heat applied in between the studs. The rear jack screw tightened hard. At the 2 o/clock position a hefty screw-driver is stuck in the rotor vents, to add to the force from the hammer. Very slight additional tightening of the jack screw could eventually be had, showing that something was moving! More heat, more PB, more pounding tightening, this time with the screwdriver in opposition at 7 o/clock, and an hour later I got it off. Total time for the rotor, of the order of 5 hours. I think that for the situation where the rotor was to be re-used, the rear jack screw notion would have to be properly designed; both holes equipped with jack screws and a single piece of 1/4" stock used. When movement is achieved, the jacks would have to be slackened and the rotor turned 180.
Darned good job I didn't take what appeared to be a simple job to the local indy mechanic, because the final bill would be ugly, and that's just for the first wheel! Thanks again everyone..

 

Good to hear you finally 'persuaded' it to move.

I've added 'RESOLVED' to your thread title to help others searching for help on this issue.

Graham

 

Melt that damn thing down and forge yourself a trophy with the liquid steel....