My mechanic should have made sure it all worked properly but I think he's always rushed off his feet. At least he fit the damn thing and wired it up nice for me. He didn't charge much for doing it.

 

The intercooler hoses are connected to the radiator hoses, so when you fill the expansion tank with coolant you also fill the intercooler system. But the air get trapped in the intercoolers because they are the highest point of the cooling system. That is why the big breather plug is located at the top of the intercoolers.
The best way of doing it is to first take the big plug out, fill the expansion tank full, turn on ignition (the intercooler pump will start), and then top up via the big breather plug.
On my 2000 XKR there is no temperature sender located in the intake, and it will not show any intake air temp other than from temperature sender in MAF

 

I'm using Torque Pro - that will show the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) but not the extended PID with the second air intake temperature (whatever that is).

Have you followed the instructions to bleed the supercharger coolant? If you haven't, its worth trying, then report back your intake temperature again:-

Remove the pressure cap from the header tank.
Switch on the ignition and switch off the climate control system.
Leave the ignition switched on (do not start the engine) for at least 2 minutes to allow the charge air cooler electric water pump to operate and to purge any air from the charge air cooler radiator to the header tank. (This operation will be repeated later)
Switch off the ignition for at least 1 minute.
Switch on the ignition.
Leave the ignition switched on (do not start the engine) for at least 2 minutes to allow the charge air cooler electric water pump to operate and to purge any air from the charge air cooler radiator to the header tank.
Top up the cooling system.
Top up the header tank and fit the pressure cap.
Remove the plug from the charge air cooler fill point.
Pour coolant carefully into the charge air cooler fill point until the system is full.
Fit the plug and washer to the fill point.
Run the engine at between 1500 and 2000 rpm until the cooling fans operate.
Switch on the climate control system, set to maximum heat, and check that heat is coming from the heater at the fascia vents or the footwell outlets.
Switch off the engine and allow it to cool down.
When cool, remove the pressure cap and top up the system as necessary at the header tank.

 

So in effect its just the temperature inside the engine bay?

 

buy a real bosch cobra pump

 

no it isn’t.

the stock intake on both the XKR’s and XK8’s have a cold air intake system unless the stock air box has been done away with.

So the air intake temperature is colder than the under hood temperature, as the air feed is coming from the right wheel well area, not the actual under hood area.

the under hood temperature is much higher than the wheel well temperature.

Z

PS: the Mina intakes that eliminate the stock air box will result in a higher intake air temperature. If I was to install a Mina intake I’d prefer the type that still utilize the stock intake box with its the cold air system using the wheel well for the air source.

 

I get a couple of degrees higher then ambient with the OEM intake from the wheel well. It's a fantastic design. The only thing that can be improved is that the intake pipe could have better flow which you can do with the Mina intake pipe but leave the air filter unit OEM. I do plan to get a Minia intake at some point, I feel like it will be a nice upgrade although it's not very cheap esspecially with shipping costs to the UK. Would be nice if someone else in the UK could make a similar item. And on the XKR filter box there is a secondary intake that opens up with a solednoid but that takes air from inside the engine bay. It might be better to improve the design of the wheel well intake to just make it larger so the engine can take more air in and delete the solenoid intake entirely? Although with superchargers the flow is more important then the intake temperature. Getting as much air in as possible is key. With the intercooler upgraded a little that should help, a new intercooler radiator with increased capacity is also a good idea I think.

 

Now I have a new problem the 15 amp fuse keeps blowing. Might just try a bigger amp fuse?

 

]

is this solenoid arrangement on just the 4.2 XKR’s ? I don’t think there is one on my 2002 4.0 XKR

Z

 

a bigger fuse is a risky bandaid. I’m all for the bandaid approach, if it doesn’t make things worse.

Z

 

I replaced the amp with another 15 amp fuse but now I don't get any power to the pump at all. Maybe there is a short in the wiring loom somewhere. Do you think it's possible the power line has broken perhaps? Sounds like a bodge job but maybe it would be easier to just wire the intercooler into something else? I don't know what though. There is power at the 15 amp fuse though so it's further down the line closer to the pump. Maybe the new wiring just came undone?

 

I followed the wiring up to the bulkead area where it murges into a large bundle of wires, I don't really want to go any further. The wiring all looks OK. I did swap some of the relays around my car has two where there is only meant to be one relay for some reason? Or at least I think so where the diagram shows. I swapped the relays around to make sure but it's still not working. It's all a bit confusing though as I'm obviously not an electrician. I'm looking at the wiring diagram and I have the intercooler coolant pump up but I have no idea what anything means on it. It's a seperate unit on the diagram and not connected to anything. There is a 63E in a circle, connected to a wire called NW? to EM75-2 which looks like the fuse?, and then it goes to another wire called B, EMS37 dot and another wire called B and then EM1AL (EM2AL). Anyone know what this means?

I found the key so I have some idea now at least, I found the intercooler relay and swapped it with another, it still doesn't work unless both of those relays where fried.

 

This is what I am looking at now, anyone have an idea what to look for int he car?

 

In the Jaguar repair manuals it says to "REPAIR the circuit between EM75, pin 02 and battery. This circuit includes the EMS fuse box, (fuse 12) the EMS relay, and the high power protection module. For additional information, refer to the wiring diagrams. CLEAR the DTC. TEST the system for normal operation."

 

So the higher intake temperature I was seeing was because the car was stationary and the reading was closer to the engine bay temp. Moving it's about 5º-10ºC above ambient.

You need to make sure you are looking at the right wiring diagram for your car - the 4.2 is wired differently to the 4.0. Your intercooler pump is switched on by the engine management system via fuse F12 15A in the engine management fuse box. NW is the colour of the wire, You might want to check if anything else is supplied by that fuse if it is blowing.

However first thing to do is make 100% sure you are looking at the correct electrical guide for your car and take some time to understand what the symbols and codes mean - its all explained at the start of the guide.

 

I have the 2003 wiring diagram up and there is no intercooler pump relay in that one. Fuse 12 15A is the one that was blown but I replaced that and it blew again. I have another one in there now which hasn't blown but there is no power to the coolant pump. There are two connectors from the coolant pump which I will check tomorrow to see if they have power and try and work my way back to see if there is a loose/failed connection somewhere. I don't think anything else is supplied on that wire? What I don't understand is that it was working until I got back after my drive I suspect, so loose connection?

 

NW = Brown White - its all explained on page 11 of your wiring guide. The other wire is Black - the codes tell you what connectors and what ground points (page 12 of your wiring guide). Checking the ground actually goes to ground (chassis/negative) is as important as checking the 12v gets 12v.

If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance of the pump circuit to see if it makes sense (ignition off, pull the fuse and measure the resistance between the pump side of the fuse socket and ground). Check the positive side of the fuse is getting power with a test lamp or multimeter. You can also check the current draw using the amps range by putting it in series with the fuse. One last thing, test lamps are always better than using a multimeter to prove you have power and ground.

Simple tests and completely free.

 

I will try that thanks. So ignition off and test the connection where fuse 12 amp 15.

 

I'm getting 11.55 volts at the fuse.

 

Pull the fuse and see what voltage you are getting both sides of the socket with the ignition on.