It's getting dark now but I pulled the fuse like you said and tested the circuit with the multimeter. I tested DC and AC but I don't think I had the best connection because the multimeter points are too fat to get into the contacts. One of readings was jumping around a lot and the other was reading near to 0 I think. I will try again tomorrow when the sun is up.

 

You'll need to get a piece of wire or something that will go into the socket without straining it. The side that has 0v with the fuse out and ignition on, goes to the pump. You can then do a test on that side on the ohms range to see what the value is. BTW 11.55V at the fuse sounds low. What is the voltage across the battery?

BTW if you haven't already got one of these testers, they are very useful. You want one with an old fashioned bulb, not an LED or meter:-

 

I will try again tomorrow as soon as the sun is up. I'm not an electrician and I have almost no experience with electronics other then replacing my microswitch in the door lock.

 

If I am reading the wiring diagram properly the 63 E in the circle means that the ECM controls the circuit when the engine is in ignition and crank? So maybe the ECM is controlling the pump?

 

The last fuse blew so I'm going to leave it for now and see if I can get a mechanic to look at it. I assume the gound or the live is shorting out somewhere perhaps.

 

It’s often useful to know if the fuse blows immediately or does it take a while ?

Z

 

The last fuse I put in it didn't blow right away but there didn't seem to be any power going to the connector even with the fuse intact. But I went for a drive this morning and when I got back the fuse had blown. Before that fuse I did have the pump running at idle and with ignition just on but then I took it for a drive and it blew again. The wiring must be damaged somewhere or one of the connectors on the loom must be damaged or something.