I just started the engine. It's 22 degrees here and the engine hasn't been started for two weeks. Is this message normal until total warm up?

 

Not normal, but if the battery wasn't being charged during those two weeks it may just be a result of low voltage.

 

Battery was not being charged. You think a few miles down the road and the warning will go off?

 

It may take more than a few miles, more like 30- 40 min, but that's just s guess. What you need to do is check the voltage of the battery. It should be at least 12.4 v with the ignition off.

 

Dinner party was only about 10 min drive. Just returned and hooked the battery to a trickle charger for overnight. I'll check it in the morning.

 

Hello My 1999 xk8 did same problem after the cold and wouldn't go away but a couple of times after it warmed up but cold start would come back. I checked code of p0355 and after moving the coil to cylinder 6 I get a p0356 so I have a bad coil at 32k miles. I went ahead and ordered a coil on amazon for 28.00 and 8 stark plugs and fuel filter since that issue came up here about dirty fuel filters. Looks like these coils don't last very long. After opening both covers to get to the coils looks like someone had numbered one side with 1-4 but the other side was not numbered had anyone else seen this??? If not someone has been in here before me. If problem persists get a code reader and Bluetooth to phone with app for cheap and get lots of info about your engine along with reading and clearing codes. Regards

 

The coils last a long time, but there is always a early failure possible. The coils may have been numbered by someone changing chain tensioners. You do have metal tensioners fitted?

 

22F is not cold. -22F is cold.

Not normal for the light come on at any temperature.

 

You may not think that's cold, but we here in Georgia disagree. Your point is taken though, I once lived in upstate NY.

 

Tickle charger was on overnight..... No more "Restricted Performance" warning. However the "Chk Engine" light is still on. That may go off with further driving, or not. I do not have a code reader so no clue. The only thing that has occurred is starting the car in 22 degree temp following the car just sitting over two weeks and a day. Must say it started right up, but probably battery a bit weak. I will now just keep the charger on the battery at all times. And I guess just wait until the check engine light goes out. Having said that, anyone have a suggestion concerning which code reader to purchase that would help someone who is not a mechanic?

 

I also started getting misfire codes and RP as the weather turned first very wet and then cold. Cleared them all including one that indicated a specific coil problem but all but the coil cam back within about4-5 days.


Since my '99 XK8 has just shy of 60,000 miles I decided to change all the plugs first before checking the specific coil since it didn't throw a code the second time. Discovered several things while I was at it.


First, one of the coils on cyl. #2 has previously been replaced.


Second, the mechanic (?) who did it lost 2 of the 6 bolts that hold down the cover over the coils. (Duh)


Third, while the plugs that were in the car were the correct numbered NGK's they were the wrong heat range and were pretty much toast on every cylinder with gaps as much as 10/1000 out of range (too wide) even though their color was pretty good.


Fourth, almost every plug hole (not the plug electrodes themselves) had some oil residue in them but cyl. #2 had a bunch of oil and that's worrisome even if the firing end & the cylinders themselves weren't fouled by it.


Fifth, changing the plugs didn't seem to help as the code thrown ...P0306...came back at the first start-up. I had to drive to Gainesville, about 55 miles one way and about 15 miles in the RP message went away and did not come back for the rest of the trip even after the car was allowed to cool down for about three hours while I took my daughter to go see "Interstellar". Odd. I'll have to see what happens tomorrow morning after a night of cooling to see if the problem is really gone or the engine heat is somehow allowing the coil to work but when it cools off the circuit opens up.


Even though the code for the coil specifically hasn't come back it still may be a problem either with the coil or in it's link back to the ECM or somewhere in the circuit but I'd have to run all the pinpoint tests to know for sure so I'll wait and see if it codes again before I start tearing into the electrics of the ignition.

These Gremlins on the new generation of heavily computerized cars are to be expected but they are certainly hard to find when you've got 2-8 of everything as opposed to the older non-electronic cars I grew up with.

 

RDMinor, your plug seals are shot if your getting oil in the wells. Not a hard job and not expensive either. Plus it will allow you to remove all coils, clean them 'stretch springs' clean contacts etc. This does require you to remove valve covers so you'll need the gasket set (this has the spark plug seals as well). IF you haven't done tensioners to 3rd gen you might consider this now since u are 2/3rds the way there and if you're not sure you will be after taking a look. Good Luck.

 

Torque for your Andriod phone. I use mine all the time. There are lots of threads on the topic.