97 XK 8 Convertible.
My son was opening and closing the top on the convertible and I think the BPM may have become confused, at least one of us are confused.
LH rear window stays down.
Recharged the battery to ensure it was up to capacity, its only 4 months old and charged up in no time.
Checked all fuses, none blown.
Removed the up Relay and bridged the Green Brown and Green White nothing except I heard the RH UP relay clicking which I expected as RH window works and in the up position.
Tried bridging 1 & 5 just a few sparks.
I hear no motor noise at all when going up and down opening the roof from the LH rear motor.
I have watched the you tube video's etc, and noted the 97 model boot Fuse box layout was different to what I have seen in my research into getting the window up via the bridging technique.
I did find on JagRepair,com the following

X100 97/E FM SHORT on page 60 the wiring schematic for the 97 model year.

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa.../jagxk1997.pdf

Am I bridging the correct wires to get the motor to run the window up?
Or am I looking in the wrong place and should be looking at the regulator/motor assembly?

 

Deacon,

All of the quarter window failures I've been involved with (4) have been a mechanical failure in the window lift. The pulley fails, the cable comes off the capstan, and entanglement occurs. I've had good luck replacing the pulley, capstan, cable, and tension regulator with parts sourced online.

Mike

 

Thank You Mike.
After checking all circuits and reading prior posts, I came to the same conclusion and brought 2 repair kits.
I had some concern regards the motor, however, checking everything there appeared to be no electrical fault in the circuit to or of the motor,
Although I still could not hear the motor spin, my conclusion was it was a mechanical fault, e.g. cable jumped pulley, cables wrapped around the pulley allowing no free play.
Something you confirmed in your post.
I was hopeful it was just a relay or similar but all circuits checked out fine.
I will weld a strengthening plate to the mounting bracket to assist with the alignment problem prior to fitting the Kit.
There is a lot of info on the Forum regards this subject,
It is just a little bump in the road on my way to the refurbishment of my XK8.
And I know the car a little better.

 

Today's effort in futility yielded an unexpected outcome.
Removing all that is required to remove the LH rear regulator I thought I would try and get the motor working by directly powering the regulator motor.
Before powering it up I checked the regulator pully's only to find that all was in order.
My expectation was I would find a destroyed pully system.
Powered the motor up and the regulator operated normally, except, where was the Glass?
Additionally, why did the motor not work through the relay circuit?
Closer inspection after using a light revealed the glass in the bottom of the area.
I reached in and removed it to find that the bonding had let go where it mounts onto the regulator.
There is some signs of rust on the silicone at the mounting point as shown in the pic.
I am unsure what the mounting system or method is to bond the glass back into the regulator.
Do I have to remove the regulator to fix it properly, or Is there a quick fix for this such as bonding the glass back into the regulator while it is still in place, or is there more to this than just a simple fix?

 

Todays lesson learnt was, it is possible to refit a convertible quarter glass without removing the regulator.
The key here is the regulator itself has not failed, just the glass slipping out of its mount to the regulator.
Top down. Rear seats and LH panels etc, removed.
The trick is to slip it in from the rear of the bracket. My glass bracket had no rust.
The front bolt on the mounting plate needs to be a couple of threads in to start, if not it will swing down.
Regulator in the up position.
Slide the window in from the rear, allowing room for the silicone on the glass to pass through the two pieces. Its a clamping process.
The outer plate is the one normally bonded to the glass.
Looking down you can see the area where the old bonding sat prior. Line it up in this area and VERY gently with a pair of small vice grips squeeze the rear of the mount in so you can start the rear bolt. Again only a few threads.
At this point I started the alignment of the quarter glass with the front window.
I slowly tightened the bolts at each end of the bracket by equal turns, checking the alignment and making slight adjustments to the glass at all times.
As the glass tightens in the regulator brackets it tilted further inboard.
I was slightly alarmed that the glass did not align with the front glass, however after replacing all weather strips the alignment improved.
I was powering the window from an independent source and lowered the window and all was fine. Same with up action.
I the raised the top into closed position, other rear quarter glass came up into position.
Powering the independent quarter glass up I had to gently push on the top of the glass to get it to sit correctly into the top's rubbers.
Closing up the door slowly to check glass alignment and the final closing action. Perfect.
Maybe I was lucky, but I didn't have to remove the regulator to do the repair. Longevity of the repair, I will let you know.
Research showed little info on the Glass problem, plenty on failed regulators.
Probably not the recommended fix, but, it worked for me.
Quick fix, NO, 4 hours.

 

Todays lesson learnt was, it is possible to refit a convertible quarter glass without removing the regulator.
The key here is the regulator itself has not failed, just the glass slipping out of its mount to the regulator.
Top down. Rear seats and LH panels etc, removed.
The trick is to slip it in from the rear of the bracket. My glass bracket had no rust.
The front bolt on the mounting plate needs to be a couple of threads in to start, if not it will swing down.
Regulator in the up position.
Slide the window in from the rear, allowing room for the silicone on the glass to pass through the two pieces. Its a clamping process.
The outer plate is the one normally bonded to the glass.
Looking down you can see the area where the old bonding sat prior.
Line it up in this area and VERY gently with a pair of small vice grips squeeze the rear of the mount in so you can start the rear bolt. Again only a few threads.
At this point I started the alignment of the quarter glass with the front window.
I slowly tightened the bolts at each end of the bracket by equal turns, checking the alignment and making slight adjustments to the glass at all times.
As the glass tightens in the regulator brackets it tilted further inboard.
I was slightly alarmed that the glass did not align with the front glass, however after replacing all weather strips the alignment improved.
I was powering the window from an independent source and lowered the window and all was fine. Same with up action.
I the raised the top into closed position, other rear quarter glass came up into position.
Powering the independent quarter glass up I had to gently push on the top of the glass to get it to sit correctly into the top's rubbers.
Closing up the door slowly to check glass alignment and the final closing action. Perfect.
Maybe I was lucky, but I didn't have to remove the regulator to do the repair. Longevity of the repair, I will let you know.
Research showed little info on the Glass problem, plenty on failed regulators.
Probably not the recommended fix, but, it worked for me.
Quick fix, NO, 4 hours.