What type of lifters does the 4.0 engine have. When mine is hot, I have a tapping noise on the right bank at idle. If I need to change it out, are special tools needed.....Thanks in advance.......Mike

 

No lifters . . . overhead cam acting on a valve spring bucket.

Seldom see valve adjustments needed. Shim thickness adjustment is a real pain.

 

you should take the valve cover off and check the type of tensioners on your car if they are the plastic type change them to the updated metal ones or you could lose your engine. it is not a hard job to do yourself using the zip tie method, you can find that in recent posts .good luck jrb 53

 

You got that right! I just got done rebuilding my heads along with metal HG's. I figure 234K miles it was due for an adjustment. It was VERY time consuming. I have seen 2 guys change out one shim before. Quite interesting.

 

With the engine cold, check each valve clearance with the cam lobe facing up to see if the clearance is within specification. If it is not within the specification, the shim must be replaced with one to give the correct clearance. There are tools designed to depress the valve spring so the shim can be removed, or the camshafts must be removed with the clearances noted. Under no circumstances is the engine to be rotated anti-clock when viewed from the front as damage to the main and rod bearings may result.

If the clearance is within specification, but you are still having a tapping noise, there may be a sticking valve caused by carbon deposits on the back of the valve.

Refer to JTIS or the Workshop Manual for the correct procedure.

 

Not questioning the validity, but what is the mechanism that causes this?

I could see valve train components, but haven't heard of this one before.

 

I had a ticking noise for years that I thought was coming from the valves, it turned out to be a cracked EGR flexi pipe.

 

I took the right valve cover off, and saw that the secondary adjuster had been changed once before. It was metal. I put a new one in, and the noise has gone away. I guess they wear out. Thanks for the help......Mike

 

If you have access to JTIS, it is mentioned several times.

There is a possibility that turning the engine in the opposite direction can cause damage to the bearing surfaces by the crankshaft.

 

Just curious, what led you to replace the tensioner? Did the shoe look crooked that the chain rode on??

 

As a general rule, I can recognise that turning the crankshaft in the opposite
direction with the valve train connected might be not so good for anything
beyond the crank gear.

But, I am still doubtful that it applies specifically to crank and rod bearings.

I am familiar with most of JTIS, but I looked again.

There are no cautions about direction of crank rotation in sections such
as valve adjustment, tensioner replacement, camshaft sprocket replacement
and even connecting rod bearing replacement.

 

I was reading what was being sent my way, and that seemed to be the main cause........Let's just call it FEAR!!! As long as I had everything apart, for the inspection, it seemed foolish not to replace the tensioner......Thanks.......Mike

 

If I remember correctly yours is the second replacement of the metal tensioners that has been reported on this forum.

Since the metal ones came out in '02 that is now 14 yeas and nothing lasts forever.