850 to drop and replace pan/filter/fluid, OUCH. I don't know if this is a repair I can do though. Convince me folks.

 

If your not having any issues just drain and refill.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...y-tips-149505/

 

Reverend Sam has made a Youtube video on the topic, have a look.


It is actually quite simple and straight forward to do.

Jouko

 

Tim, With all the work you've done this isn't really that difficult (though I did the 722.6 trans). Getting the car jacked and level high enough to work under comfortably. You'll probably have difficulty getting torx bolts out, and may want to replace them with larger heads (not sure if this was fixed at some point by jag).

I never understood the drain and fill, while easy your fluid is newly contaminated as it flows through the old filter, though the change will provide the proper properties compared to what was drained. Since this is a once in 50k miles do it right.

 

I did the job myself last week and the toughest part was getting all of the pan bolts out without breaking any. All but 5 came out with the electric impact wrench. The other five I put vice grips on the head to provide some additional force and then used the electric impact and they came out.
My car has 126,000 miles and the date ink stamped on the inside of the pan was Sept, 2003. That leads me to believe that my car has gone without a change since new. Fluid was a little brown and there was nothing more on the magnet then a little sludge. The car ran fine as well and I took 6.5 litres out on the drain. I guess that show that they can go along time without a change, but now I have one less thing to be nervous about. With a good set of jack stands to get the car as high as you can the job is quite doable yourself. On my car there is a heat shield you have to get off to get to the fill plug, that was the toughest part, getting a wrench up there to the 3 10mm. bolts that fasten that shield to the transmission. it took me about 2 hours to do the job, so I would say you are spending about $400 for labour.

 

I have the hard shift time to time coming off a stop sign or red light. Been this way since I have had the car. Never got better or worse just is. ha ha ha
I'd rather replace the pan/filter and fluid. These bolts that are issues? Will I have to be drilling some of them out if they break?
I am trying to sell the car and this is hurting me (I am honest and upfront with car issues in my ads) not trying to fix this. It rarely does it but the time a dude drove it, IT DID IT. ha ha

 

I HATE working under a car that is on stands. ha ha ha. Where is the best/safest place to put them? I assume the car being level is the best for getting the most fluid out of the car. With these being sealed life time BS and my pan showing no evidence of ever leaking I can assume it has used no fluid and I should just put in what I took out??

 

I recommend that you measure what drains out the first time you service these ZF units. After that, you'll have a baseline to work with for future drain-and-fills. We've done the procedure a total of four times on my two ZFs (two times per vehicle). Works for me....

 

Yea I was planning on measuring what came out.
I still worry about the bolts holding the pan in. I will be using just basic hand tools, I have no compressor or the like.
Where do I get the upgraded bolts from when I do it?

 

Stay with hand tools, but make sure your torx socket is good quality and a tight fit. Any ZF dealer can supply the screws. Link to CTSC:

Ooops, you have 6HP24, but just use the link to get into the site and go from there.

Oil Pan Screw 5HP19 and 5HP24

 

I would not twist on the bolts with a ratchet wrench or a power bar, I think you will probably break a few for sure. I have a Ryobi Electric Impact wrench, the size of a 1/4 inch drill and it did the job. If you don't have one get one, it really speeds up a lot of small jobs. Make sure you get the 27mm. torx bits. I ending up breaking 2 by the time I was done, so get a couple extra. You might have to cut a bit of plastic away on the old pan to get the vice grips on really tight ones but it is a throw away so doesn't matter.

 

I don't see 6HP24 at that link. Where do I find the bolts for an 03?

 

Your proper ZF transmission model number is the 6HP26. I know Klaus at Genuine ZF Parts sells them online. You may also be able to find them locally at some of the transmission parts suppliers. Google Transtar and see if they have a branch in your area....

 

This looks like the one I want to order. Only FIVE screws holding the pan up?????

Oil change kit for 6HP26/28/32

 

No, that particular ATF and pan change kit comes with five new bolts as spares to replace any that you may destroy during pan removal. You can order as many new bolts as you need. Send Klaus an e-mail and let him know how many bolts you want if that is all you plan to order from him....

 

he many bolts are needed, figure may as well replace them all.

 

Just my 2 cents but the drain and fill would be much easier. If it does not improve the issue changing the pan/filter will not correct it either. All the work and hassell of removing the pan only gives you a clean filter which is only designed to catch contaminates not improve the quality of the fluid. It is unlikely your filter is causing any issues.

 

Does sound easier and if it fixes it I could go back in after a few K miles and do the pan/filter and replace fluids again which would get me closer to a better final fluid mix of newer fluids.

 

The advantage to changing the pan is that you also get to SEE the 2 big magnets, and determine if there are any metal shavings on there, a sure sign of trouble.

The bolts are a pain to remove, but they also stick out some (you can see it in the video posted above). It is not like you need to drill them out. I ended up using a chisel and made a notch on the bolt heads with a hammer. Then I used the same chisel at an angle in the said notches to free them up.

I assume you looked up the Mercon-SP threads...

 

Mercon-SP was just about using that type of fluid???