Guys, I need some help with refitting the front subframe, I'm thinking about bolting the the rear V mount to the chassis leg before fitting the subframe, rather than fitting it to the sobrame (with the 4 smaller bolts) then bolting it to the car.

The problem is that access to the bolt hole in the V mount is virtually impossible after it is screwed to the subframe.

How have you done it?

 

I responded to your PM, but apparently the msg did not get sent.

I left the V-mount in place primarily because it was serviceable and therefore wasn't necessary to remove it. Consequently it was already on the cross member when I installed new engine mounts.

I installed the engine mount first to the engine mount brackets, while the crossmember (and attached V mount) was still off the car. The the stud on the engine mount fits up into the engine mount bracket. It is held in place by a single nut [12-14mm?] attaching the motor mount stud to the cast aluminum engine mount bracket.

While it is a tight fit up in there, I found that if the threads on both the engine mount top stud and the nuts are clean; I could reach up and over the cast bracket and finger tighten the nuts onto the engine mount studs.

These nuts can then be tightened from underneath. I used a 3/8 ratchet drive, and deep well socket, with the handle pointed towards the rear of the car. The wrench can only swing about 20 degrees arc of movement, but the nut can be accessed, and it can be tightened down. I estimate the nut was tightened to at least 20-25 ftlbs. Loctite was used to insure the nut doesn't back off.

For the most part, the weight of the engine weight holds itself onto the mount, and this attachment point is only there to insure the engine doesn't bounce up and down. (Like mine was doing with two (2) broken mounts... but that is another story)

 

15mm.

A crowsfoot wrench on a universal and 12 inch extension can reach from the top.

eg. Snap-on BFCRM 15A which is a ratcheting ring type crowsfoot. $20 from the truck or online.

Brutal uses a different type which is more expensive, but more versatile.

 

Guys, I dont think I have explained my self very well.

This is the bolt in question. It seems impossible to get a normal socket on to.



I have bought a crows foot spanner set and have ground this one down to fit.



The alternative is to bolt the V mount to the chassis leg first, but then the lower arms have to be put on after the subframe is put onto the car to get access to the 4 smaller screws.

One worry also it to get the alignment of the four screw hols in the right place for the subframe.

 

I ground down the subframe flange at that point. Used a dremel and 1/4" dia. aluminum cutting tool to carve out just enough space to fit the socket more vertical over the fastener. Also the bolt was a torx head, not a hex head. The torx allowed for some angle on the bit end. But be careful to not strip out anything here.

Installation used a 3/8 drive with a wobbly extension... not a universal extension, a wobbly, which gives 5-10 degrees of angle off the end of the torx socket

 

A torx bolt would make this a no brainer as I have some long torx bits I could use, Ill see if I can get some new torx bolts.

 

Got a new charcoal canister in great condition from Jagslag today.



Lick of paint to freshen it up.

 

Before.



Rust convertered and preped.



Zinc primer.



Top coat with paint code JUC10, not a perfect colour match but it will do.

 

And finally for today, a couple of coats of primer on the wheel arch.

I didn't mask anything up, instead just rubbed off any overspray with a light cutting compound to get a nice feathered edge.

 

Great progress indeed. Are you going to touch up the rust under your fuse box next to the shiny, gray shock tower?

 

Hmmm, yes I also noticed that, if I can work out how to get it off I will have no choice but to repaint it!

 

More painting.

The fuse box support.







The inner wing.




The sill topcoated but not yet cleared.



The wheel arch top coated and cleared, I will give it a mop to bring back the shine once it hardened up a bit

 

Here we are, it's going back on tomorrow.

 

I think you need to install the springs and shocks on the subframe before you raise it up into place. Otherwise, the springs and shocks cannot be fitted without removing the upper A-arms.

 

I fitted the shock and springs to the car first then planned to jack the subframe up and slot them through the upper arms.

However I found out that it is possible to take the springs and shock out with the upper arms in place as I did this when taking the suspension apart.

 

Spot the mistake..................



The anti roll bar is upside down, arghhhhhh.

So out it came and the bar was swapped over, I also took off the lower arms to make it easier to manoeuvre.



The parts dept at the Jag dealer were closed today so I pushed on with the old subframe bolts, I will swap out for the torx version later as I didn't want to take these up to the recommended torque level.



Next on to the steering rack, it was very difficult to refit due the awkward pipe work and impossible steering spline and U joint, after hours I got it to this point but it would not fully seat.



So I made up this tool so that I could "pull" it onto the spline. It was a horrible job.



And finally the near side was fully assembled.




Tomorrow the other side,

 

From the angle shown, I can't see the need for a crowsfoot.

Looks like a straight shot with a socket and extension.

BTW, the ground strap next to the steering union looks like it could use a refresh.

 

Viewed along the axis of the bolt, the bolt head is situated half under the overhang. To provide a more perpendicular access to the bolt head I milled a slight depression and cleaned up a ridge of flash . Also the torqx bolt allowed a slight angle to the approach.

 

I built up the other hub assembly tonight and finally got the engine support off.

I ordered up some new V-mount torx bolts and a new earth strap so may be here tomorrow.

Still got the wiper scuttle, wipers, mud flaps, wheel arch liners and bumper under tray to go, then an alignment check so may get the car on the road for a test drive tomorrow.

 

At last after 8 weeks it is back on its wheels.



Out for a test drive, a couple of small issues, steering wheel is offset an 1/8 of a turn to the left, must have happened when I was struggling to refit the steering rack.



Right hand brake disk rubbing on the dust shield slightly, I'll need to bend it a bit.

But the clunk has gone!

Thanks to everyone for the invaluable help and support, it really is much appreciated.