I picked up the sub frame from jag a few days ago with the new front bush pushed in, they charged £100 for the job, just had to suck it up.



Anyway, on to the headlamp repairs, first, a few paper templates.



This is the locating slot for the headlamp cluster.



This is part of the slot that is used to hold the healamp washer piston/sprayer.



I'll cut out repair sections from 2mm steel plate and glue/screw into place.

 

The first metal repair fitted.



The fork cut out.



I will glue this in place.



I also tacked on the second pair of nut plates, the positioning looks good.

 

Are you related to a TV guy by the name of McGiver?

 

RaceDiagnostics-

I've been keeping an eye on your thread and about all I can say is "Holy Cats! What a heck of a lot of work!"

You are certainly an inventive and persistent sort. I recently replaced the upper A arm bushings and another wheel bearing and faced nowhere near the challenges you have. Has that car been run on the Bonneville Salt Flats?

I'm sure you've considered ways to attempt to limit further corrosion. I haven't tried this stuff on my cars, but at work we apply Cor-Ban 35 to steel aircraft landing gear parts. It's not sticky and even protects against the extremely corrosive potassium formate runway deiciers used in some parts of the world.

I will continue to follow your progress and wish you well in your reclamation/restoration project!

Mike

 

The first owner of the car lived in Aberdeen, I think they must have lived on this street.

 

Did an hour or so of wire brushing, washing with engine degreaser on this side of the car then treated with rust converter.









I'll do the other side tomorrow night then paint with epoxy mastic at the weekend.

 

searching:

electrolysis soda rust removal anode

yields some of the following pages:

Model A Ford Garage ~ Carbon Anode Electrolytic Rust Removal Method

ELECTROLYTIC RUST REMOVAL (ELECTROLYSIS)

Rust Removal By Electrolysis - VintageMachinery.org Knowledge Base (Wiki)

* always heed the warnings about hydrogen gassing!

 

Not sure I will get the entire car in that bucket!

 

No ... but people have done springs and things ... I'm a poet

 

I like your passion and desire to restore this car. My wife and I spend a great deal of time in Ocean City Md. and our XK8 & S-Type are now showing the wear and tear of the salt air/water on the cars. I will continue to follow with the anticipation of seeing the car completed.

 

AAAAAaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Started wire brushing the other side of the car tonight and found this.

 

How very considerate ... a handy access hole for the single nut! And it's not even rusted.

 

Dang Race,

I'm going to have to put you in for an OBE "Order of the British Empire". You deserve it. Other than that, perhaps we can get up a collection for some serious counseling. Were it me, I would need it.

 

Race....I really appreciate your work ethic and tenacity! Thanks for the play by play....looking good!

 

I'll call Davy the welder in the morning and persuade him to come back out.

Anyway on with the painting with Rustbuster epoxy mastic.

 

I had a look at the part numbers on the upper arms today, I thought that there were supposed to be different for n/s and o/s, but mine were both the same.

MJA 1424AD

Anyone know if this is correct or incorrect?

 

Does this help?

 

On the upper wishbone I show

MJA 1420AH RH To vin# 031302
MJA 1421AH LH To vin# 031302
MJB 1420AB RH From Vin# 031303
MJB 1421AB LH From Vin# 031303

 

My vin is 31219 but the car has the "super sports suspension" and CATS options, I wonder if that makes a difference.

When I bought my front bush and bearing kit I was advised to buy parts that did not match the VIN, ie the larger size bearing which did fit my hub. I'll give Jag a call today to see what they say.

 

I'm really enjoying your thread RaceD She'll be together soon with your hard work and ingenuity (sp)
Bruce