Lurch - Is there a definite fix?
#1
Lurch - Is there a definite fix?
Hi Guys,
I am possibly going to view a 2002 xkr with the zf 6hp26 gearbox, the car looks fantastic in the pics. The owner mentions there is a pulse from the gearbox when it changes into 1st gear so im wondering if its the lurch, he says he has lived with it for 8 years. He has had software updated but it did not improve. Nobody seems to have suggested changing the oil. It has 116k miles.
this is what he wrote to me
-----------------------------------
'The gear box is sealed for life and a recent check by a local gearbox specialist stated that the oil is in good condition, he did ask if I had had it changed recently.
There is a pulse when the gear box tries to change into 1st gear, only at low speed when slowing and then wishing to accelerate. This has been with me since I had the car now for 8 years.
I have had the box checked with a jaguar specialist and two gear box specialist, all of which said that it needed software update...two of them assured me that they had now updated it.
I can only say that I do not find this a problem although I do know that this is a common event in this six speed gearbox.'
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Can the lurch be fixed for sure or is there a still a possibility it cant be fixed. Im wondering if i should just leave this one if its to risky. It might be worth considering if there is a definate fix but if its a bit hit and miss then maybe i should leave it. The car has been very well maintanined but as usual the gearbox has not been serviced as its not part of the servicing schedule.
I am possibly going to view a 2002 xkr with the zf 6hp26 gearbox, the car looks fantastic in the pics. The owner mentions there is a pulse from the gearbox when it changes into 1st gear so im wondering if its the lurch, he says he has lived with it for 8 years. He has had software updated but it did not improve. Nobody seems to have suggested changing the oil. It has 116k miles.
this is what he wrote to me
-----------------------------------
'The gear box is sealed for life and a recent check by a local gearbox specialist stated that the oil is in good condition, he did ask if I had had it changed recently.
There is a pulse when the gear box tries to change into 1st gear, only at low speed when slowing and then wishing to accelerate. This has been with me since I had the car now for 8 years.
I have had the box checked with a jaguar specialist and two gear box specialist, all of which said that it needed software update...two of them assured me that they had now updated it.
I can only say that I do not find this a problem although I do know that this is a common event in this six speed gearbox.'
----------------------------------------------------
Can the lurch be fixed for sure or is there a still a possibility it cant be fixed. Im wondering if i should just leave this one if its to risky. It might be worth considering if there is a definate fix but if its a bit hit and miss then maybe i should leave it. The car has been very well maintanined but as usual the gearbox has not been serviced as its not part of the servicing schedule.
Last edited by GGG; 11-01-2016 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Edit typo in thread title
#2
#3
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Perth Ontario Canada
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abonano (10-31-2016)
#4
There is never a guarantee when attempting to resolve the lurch. Owners have had their systems reflashed, refreshed the ATF, and probably even sacrificed chickens at the altar of the ZF gods. After these actions some cars improve and some do not. It looks to be a roll of the dice....
from the wiki see below (i shortened the list), it was introduced with the improved 4.2 engine in 2002.
Applications
Ford has developed their own versions (6R60 and 6R80) based on the 6HP26. Therefore, certain Ford vehicles will not be listed.
Two-wheel drive version:
2001–2008 BMW 7 Series (E65)[3]
2002–2005 Jaguar XK8/XKR (X100)[4]
2003–2012 Aston Martin DB9[5][6]
2003–2010 BMW 5 Series (E60)
2003–2010 BMW 6 Series (E63)
2003–2008 Jaguar S-Type
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#6
I have updated my profile thanks for reminding me. Our registrations change twice a year, 1st of March and 1st of Sept. Usually the changes are introduced at these dates for the new registration.
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#8
I would second Jon89's point above, there is no guarantee of anything. On the other hand, there is a lot of accumulated knowledge out there for these transmissions, and even these cars in general, which makes it likely that it can be fixed.
With an older 6HP26 exhibiting less then perfect shifts, the "standard" approach is to perform a fluid and filter change. Parts are readily available, and some swear by the Mercon SP fluid. Fluid level is key to the transmission's health, so change the connector sleeve seal as well. The refill procedure is critical (temperature based), but not out of reach for a determined DIYer. On an early car, expect to have to change the bolts to the larger bit.
Once done, a further step, if necessary, involves performing a reset of the software adaptations. The short version is that the car's electronics only "learn" and "adapt" to the transmission's characteristics for the first 100 miles after a reset of the so-called adaptations. As the fluid/clutches age, these adaptations diverge from the actual status of the transmission and shift quality suffer. Such a re-set involve the factory (software) tool and a pre-defined drive cycle (and a new 100 miles "learning" period).
Last, there are obviously all the mechanical aspects: there is a rubber joint to the driveshaft, and the half-shafts between the differential and wheels need to be greased. Of course, worn-out engine/transmission mounts can also contribute to this issue.
All in all, I personally would not let this issue stop me from buying an otherwise good car. As a general statement, the whole value proposition of buying an older, nicer car comes with a side effect of having to deal with issues as they invariably seem to crop up.
Best of luck in your search.
With an older 6HP26 exhibiting less then perfect shifts, the "standard" approach is to perform a fluid and filter change. Parts are readily available, and some swear by the Mercon SP fluid. Fluid level is key to the transmission's health, so change the connector sleeve seal as well. The refill procedure is critical (temperature based), but not out of reach for a determined DIYer. On an early car, expect to have to change the bolts to the larger bit.
Once done, a further step, if necessary, involves performing a reset of the software adaptations. The short version is that the car's electronics only "learn" and "adapt" to the transmission's characteristics for the first 100 miles after a reset of the so-called adaptations. As the fluid/clutches age, these adaptations diverge from the actual status of the transmission and shift quality suffer. Such a re-set involve the factory (software) tool and a pre-defined drive cycle (and a new 100 miles "learning" period).
Last, there are obviously all the mechanical aspects: there is a rubber joint to the driveshaft, and the half-shafts between the differential and wheels need to be greased. Of course, worn-out engine/transmission mounts can also contribute to this issue.
All in all, I personally would not let this issue stop me from buying an otherwise good car. As a general statement, the whole value proposition of buying an older, nicer car comes with a side effect of having to deal with issues as they invariably seem to crop up.
Best of luck in your search.
#9
The following users liked this post:
Jag#4 (10-31-2016)
#10
I would second Jon89's point above, there is no guarantee of anything. On the other hand, there is a lot of accumulated knowledge out there for these transmissions, and even these cars in general, which makes it likely that it can be fixed.
With an older 6HP26 exhibiting less then perfect shifts, the "standard" approach is to perform a fluid and filter change. Parts are readily available, and some swear by the Mercon SP fluid. Fluid level is key to the transmission's health, so change the connector sleeve seal as well. The refill procedure is critical (temperature based), but not out of reach for a determined DIYer. On an early car, expect to have to change the bolts to the larger bit.
Once done, a further step, if necessary, involves performing a reset of the software adaptations. The short version is that the car's electronics only "learn" and "adapt" to the transmission's characteristics for the first 100 miles after a reset of the so-called adaptations. As the fluid/clutches age, these adaptations diverge from the actual status of the transmission and shift quality suffer. Such a re-set involve the factory (software) tool and a pre-defined drive cycle (and a new 100 miles "learning" period).
Last, there are obviously all the mechanical aspects: there is a rubber joint to the driveshaft, and the half-shafts between the differential and wheels need to be greased. Of course, worn-out engine/transmission mounts can also contribute to this issue.
All in all, I personally would not let this issue stop me from buying an otherwise good car. As a general statement, the whole value proposition of buying an older, nicer car comes with a side effect of having to deal with issues as they invariably seem to crop up.
Best of luck in your search.
With an older 6HP26 exhibiting less then perfect shifts, the "standard" approach is to perform a fluid and filter change. Parts are readily available, and some swear by the Mercon SP fluid. Fluid level is key to the transmission's health, so change the connector sleeve seal as well. The refill procedure is critical (temperature based), but not out of reach for a determined DIYer. On an early car, expect to have to change the bolts to the larger bit.
Once done, a further step, if necessary, involves performing a reset of the software adaptations. The short version is that the car's electronics only "learn" and "adapt" to the transmission's characteristics for the first 100 miles after a reset of the so-called adaptations. As the fluid/clutches age, these adaptations diverge from the actual status of the transmission and shift quality suffer. Such a re-set involve the factory (software) tool and a pre-defined drive cycle (and a new 100 miles "learning" period).
Last, there are obviously all the mechanical aspects: there is a rubber joint to the driveshaft, and the half-shafts between the differential and wheels need to be greased. Of course, worn-out engine/transmission mounts can also contribute to this issue.
All in all, I personally would not let this issue stop me from buying an otherwise good car. As a general statement, the whole value proposition of buying an older, nicer car comes with a side effect of having to deal with issues as they invariably seem to crop up.
Best of luck in your search.
As i mentioned i found another xkr today and put a deposit down on it.
ha ha nice one