The remote has been history for quite a while but tonite turning the key did nothing.
On my Ford Truck the rear door handle cables went as the cable ends are a cheap plastic. Am I into a similar deal here? Key turning pulls cable and cable is toast? For the truck they have aftermarket aluminum cast ends available to rebuild the cables permanently. Any input so I can start chasing the right part is appreciated.

 

The driver's Door Latch has 3 operating rods - not cables.



The one arrowed in red goes to the interior handle, the blue and green to the exterior door handle and the exterior lock.

Breakage of the rods is very unusual. A regular cause of issues is one of the Door Latch microswitches failing.

Graham

 

So if one of the microswitches fails the key won't work?
Done a bit of net-searching and seems like folks who had a switch go prevents the fob from working but key does.


Update: So I took my spare key in and it worked. Felt a bit of a "hang-up" like something didn't want to allow it to turn all the way, but then it did. Afterwards, the regular key worked again as well. Sounds like a bit of mechanical mis-alignment, right?

 

Yes - I agree.

If you normally only use the remote then the link rod could seize. The Luggage Compartment lock is another favourite for this. Everyone uses their remote and never opens it with the key. Come the day the remote fails and they either can't get the key into the lock or the lock then won't turn!

Graham

 

Put a little powdered graphite on your key, then insert your key into the door lock. Use your key to lock and unlock it a few times. Put a bit more powdered graphite on your key and repeat. That may fix you up for quite awhile....

While you're at it, do the same with your ignition switch and your trunk lock....

Lock mechanisms love powdered graphite....

 

Thanks for the input gents.
Did the graphite thing and it eases the hang-up a bit but I figure this needs to be on a do list for repair. Just hoping I can maintain the same key through it.