Well I tried the metal AutoZone coil spacers today. No joy as it only raised it by 1/4". I was at 14 1/4" and now it sits at just under 14.5".

I am convinced when I replaced my coils springs this summer I was given the coupe springs which have a softer rate than the convertible version. If so, it would account for why the spacers do not give me the full inch.

I pulled them back off (what's the point in leaving them on) and maybe I can get my $10 back. Come spring, I am going to bite the bullet and replace the springs again with real Jag coils. Hopefully that will fix the ride height.

 

Thanks for the info. Went out and got a view from the engine bay:


Left Side - Somewhat off center




Right Side - Way off center

So according to this thread, shock mounts are definitely perished. I then read up, in the forum stickys, on the procedure to change them. Realized that this could be a long drawn out process as I would likely discover more things wrong and you've confirmed this is likely the case.

I think I will order the mounts on line as you recommend. Still thinking about possibly going ahead and ordering some shocks with bushings as well. Any recommendations as to a source for a decent shock set with bushings?

Update: I've looked through the microfiche. Seems the upper shock mount is MJA2170AD. There are a couple of non-dealer sources. Some offer upgrade kits (my metal bits seem ok) for about the same price - thoughts on these????

The shock (ahem, damper) assembly is MJA2141DG and according to the drawing, includes the bushing. One source has the difference between the bushing and the shock with bushing at $80. If I'm wrong about the bushing being included, please tell me!

 

I just ordered shocks here: Jaguar XK8 1997 2006 Set of 2 Front Shock Absorber BE5 6726H0 | eBay
There are top shock mounts available on ebay too. Honestly, I am not the biggest fan of ebay, no real reason, I just prefer Amazon or other real on line retailers, but ebay certainly has a good selection, and items are typically very competively priced.

 

Thanks! Part number doesn't match the microfiche but seller's listing is pretty specific regarding the compatibility. Yes, price is a bit less than another on-line seller I've been reviewing, free shipping too.

 

On the shocks and mounts, have you tried Autopartswarehouse. Our sponsor SNG has been doing a good deal on the mounts. Lots of places have these items and SNG gives us Forum members 10%.
On the Poly mounts, not heard of any long term (10,000 mile) reports, I would properly go that route, but that's me.


Wayne

 

Scott, there are many posts going back years on the forum about the correct shock for non CATS being the BE5-6726-H0...I am pretty confident about this being the correct part.

 

Thanks, I feel better and I've already ordered a pair of shocks and also made a separate order for the mounts.

I'm going to take these parts to my local Jag specialist (non-dealer) who has done good work for me in the past. I just don't trust myself to identify any other issues I may have in that area. Yes, I'm

 

heat EXPANDS & cold CONTRACTS


when it's HOT outside, the air in the tires will have expanded a bit, pushing the tire OUTWARDS, no doubt enough to rub SOONER than before.

after driving for a while, the heat from that will heat the air in the tires and do the same thing, PUSH THE TIRE OUTWARDS, enough to rub SOONER.

 

For those of you using spring spacers; don't think you have found a cheap fix that has no consequence. The spacers do load the spring adversely causing the spring to fail. Only use spacers when you are prepared to drive slowly and corner gently. You do not want a spring to break in the middle of a high speed turn. All it would take is an unseen pothole. This is probably the worst idea I have ever read in this forum. If a bush is worn out only replacement will repair it. If you must drive the car with spacers take it easy.

 

+1

 

Thanks for the good advice guys, it stands to reason that the spacers create a major stress concentration on the springs. The springs are quite robust so I'm hoping I don't have a problem down the road. I may try a different approach with a 360° 1" rubber spacer on the top of the coil and remove the twist-in spacers.

 

You can add a spacer 3/8" thick between the shock mount and the body. I have the drawing in pdf form but can't figure out how to copy it here.

 

Sorry, using spacers is ****,
you cut suspension, that works to the cars whole body.


PS: Sorry for my "english"

 

here is a JPG of the specs for a spacer. It can be mounted up inside the shock tower, sitting on the top shock mount, effectively raising ride height (although only the thickness of the plate), but more valuable as a way to improve camber. This is going to provide minimal benefit and can be an option to improve height and camber only slightly, and maybe should be considered for fine tuning.

 

Steve,

Except for having a larger center hole, I am using this type of spacer now to help the ride height. Works very well, but limited.

I agree with the previous posters that the AutoZone knuckle spacers are at best a temporary fix, not a permanent one. I removed the ones I tried the same day.

Just waiting until warmer weather to replace my too-soft (not worn out) springs.

 

Thanks Steve,
I was going to search for your original post but you saved me. I made my spacers from a 3/8" thick cutting board, and like Mike, increased the center hole so that I could get a socket on the shock nut.

This spacer can be inserted without removing the shock/ spring assembly; just remove the three mount bolts and slide it in.

 

The Duck Tape. Multiple layers in a crisis cross pattern works best.

 

RJ can you email the PDF to me? jls_arch at charter dot net. Heading "Jag Spacers".

Your idea sounds promising and being "no cost" I like it even more. My wife said I could use her old cutting board.

Do you need to rent a spring compressor to install them?

John S.

 

Toaster, your English is fine. I realise the twist-in spacers stiffen the spring rate, but driving the car with the spacers has improved the ride and handling markedly.

I had a 1968 289 Mustang in the far distant past (1974) and used similar spacers when I put a 351W in it. They raised the car up just enough to counter the heavier engine and I never had a problem with it.

John S.

 

John, I just emailed you the PDF.
No spring compressor needed.
You need to jack up the front of the car and put on jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the lower shock mount nut, leave the bolt in place for now, then remove the three nuts on the top of the shock tower in the engine bay. Don't worry about the whole thing falling out and onto the floor, it won't. Next, pull the upper control arm bolt out, but you can leave the ball joint attached. If you are not familiar with this procedure and have never replaced your upper control arm bushings, be aware of the shims placement (see Rev Sam's video for guidance) when you pull the control arm bolt, the shims will fall away - they need to go back in the same orientation. As you remove the control arm bolt, and are watching for the shims falling (not to be confused with the washers), be careful not to let the entire hub to flop toward you, putting stress on the brake hose. You are from the north east, so unless your control arm bolt has been out in the last year or two, it likely will be difficult to remove due to salt corrosion. Sometimes it is nearly impossible to remove, there are plenty of posts about this on the forum. Once the bolt is out, set the control arm back in place and stick the bolt in one end just a little to hold the hub up, then remove the lower shock bolt. Pull the control arm bolt out again, hold the hub with your knees or something else, pivot the control arm toward the back of the car and around the the shock, then pull the shock and spring assembly out. Place the control arm back in place and stick the bolt back in enough to keep it there. Now you have the shock and spring assembly out in one peice. As I said, you don't need a spring compressor if all you are doing is placing a shim on top of the shock mount. However, if your shock mounts are bad, you should replace them, and to do that, you need a spring compressor. A couple of more points, if your upper control arm bushings are suspect, replace them now while it is apart. If you never have had these bushings out, best bet is to completely remove the control arm from the car, by popping the ball joint. Consider power flex bushings as replacements, I don't notice any ride difference, but very good improvement in tramlinig as compared to new factory bushes. Also, check the shock lower mount bushing, this is a common failure. If worn, it will affect ride height and can be felt in the ride and steering wheel on rough surfaces. So, if your car hasn't had any of this work done, you are likely looking at upper shock mounts, upper control arm bushings, and shocks (not much more $ than lower shock bushing).