No need for spring compressor. Support the car on jack stands at the jacking points, put a jack under the spring pan, remove the three nuts in the engine compartment, and lower the jack to get clearance for the spacer.

 

FWIW, my hub assembly won't "fall" low enough with the control arm in place, to have access to the top shock mount to fit the spacer/shim. I had to pull the upper control arm out, and the lower shock bolt, then remove the spring/shock assembly out of the car, put the shim in place on top of the shock mount, then stick it back up into the shock tower and re-attach the lower shock bolt etc.

 

Steve, my mistake.
I did remove the lower shock mount bolt, but that was all it took. That was a while back and I sometimes forget details.

 

Charmer,





in Germany not every street is a autobahn........


PS: a question to the 351w, for interest,
how many horsepower?

 

Toaster, the 351 had only 300 horsepower. The 351 in my Cobra Replica is bored and stroked to 426 inches and has 400 horses. With the Weiand supercharger on it, it had 550 horsepower. The car only weighs 2400 pounds. I took the supercharger off in the interest of my survival.

Regards, HAVE A GREAT NEW YEAR,

John Strandberg

 

Steve,

Did your order go through?

I missed the availability window for your seller so I went to another one.

This guy's listing says something like 10 available for only a little more. I ordered two. Two days later with no response from the seller, I sent a note inquiring about delivery so I could schedule the installation. Got a note back saying they're out of stock with no ETA so they refunded my money. Funny thing though, the listing is still running showing availability ... grrrr.

I'm now dealing with a third seller whose part number is different (same photo) and claims compatibility with every XK8 except for the '99 (which I think is a typo). I sent this one a note asking about the '99, did get a reply requesting VIN, production date, etc. No response from my answer. I'm figuring they're out as well. More grrrrr ...

SNG Barratt lists them at a decent price as well, but they're special order too. After I got them to answer their phone, they're saying two to three weeks ...

 

Try partsgeek.com. They show four in stock.

 

First, let me say THANKS for checking, that's appreciated!

I looked at them earlier today. Only one in stock then and only one in stock now ... I might be looking at the wrong thing, here's what I see ...



Here's the link I used: 99 1999 Jaguar XK8 Shock Absorber - Suspension - Bilstein, Genuine, Front, Rear - PartsGeek

I've you've got something different, I'm ready to see it!

Scott

UPDATE: Found a site called Partstrain.com, supposedly have them. Ordered two. We'll see ...

 

No, my order was cancelled too, out of stock. I then ordered from another online retailer as their site said in stock, but they had none. I talked on the phone to them, they said no distributor in the US has any, and they are waiting for the slow boat from Germany. I then tried Summit Racing, talked to the, on the phone, got the shock delivered next day.

Now I am struggling to get the top shock nut off, it just spins on the shock shaft, argh. I got one complete spring/shock assembly done, but stuck on this one.

 

You probably got a new nut with the new shock. If that's the case, I'd apply my trusty "nut splitter" and be done with it.

I suppose all those suppliers can advertise low prices if they don't have them in stock ...

If my latest order doesn't pan out, I'll check with Summit Racing. Thanks for the response.

 

I have a 99 XK8 the front tires rub when cornering and the tires are wearing on the inside edge and I cant get it to adjust the camber. looking at the top of the shock tower it looks ok. what should I look for from the bottom? from what ive seen here it should be obvious. I would appreciate any help.

Bill

 

It is very difficult to see up inside the shock tower to actually see the top shock mount and discern its condition. And unless you know what to look for, it is even more difficult. However, when looking from the top side within the engine bay, you can see the top shock rod and nut. It should be centered in the hole. With worn mounts it will not be centered. Also, the packing material will be shredding, like orange colored rubber dust all in this same area if your top shock mounts are worn. If you don't know if or when your mounts were replaced, it is a fair assumption they are worn, particularly based on your symptoms. As the top shock mount wears, the packing material which is some kind of rubber like material disintegrates and the mount loses thickness, substantially, which lowers ride height and causes camber to go negative. Other things that can lower ride height are worn springs, and a severely worn lower shock bushing. In all likelihood, your top shock mounts are shot, your lower shock bushing is likely worn but may not be a ride height factor yet, so, at the very least, you probably should consider the shock and the top mounts. But also springs if you truly want full ride height restored. On my 2004, after replacing the top shock mounts and shocks my ride height still was low due to worn springs.

 

Steve I looked at the top of the shock and it was slightly off center but there was no loose rubber it looked good. The shock mounts have never been replaced and will try and see if anything looks worn from underneath. Ill check the ride height and also look for worn bushings. The rear tires are also wearing on the inside what could be causing that? the top bushing looked good.

Bill

 

It really is nearly a guarantee that your front top shock mounts are shot.

For the rears, the camber goes negative as the springs wear and ride height is lost. Rarely do the shock mounts in the rear need replacing. You can by camber shims for the rears. Do a search on the forum for rear camber shim thickness to see which shims compensate for what degree of correction. If you don't have a recent aligpnment printout, you need one to know your current rear camber settings before knowing what shims to buy. Also, search the forum for alignmnet posts, particularly posts by Brutal, and some by me. In general, front or back, negative camber should only be an issue when greater than -1.5 or so. However, a good alignmnet tech (which is someone who actually knows what they are doing and has experience -or who listens) will compensate for this with toe-in. Again look for the posts.

 

The info here is super!

 

Great info!